Cold Air Intake...

KurtP

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Its more that they dont really care who you or your nephew are, and neither do we. your dyno posted is the same to me as theirs is, i guess is what im saying. they sell the hell out of these things anyway, so as good intentioned as you are, it doesnt really make a difference to them.

in my short time on this forum, ive read posts from aftermarket manufacturers that make it clear they dont understand how fuel trims in ecu’a work, or the relationship LTFT has to open loop fueling tables. Its kind of remarkable.



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cgflyer

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In closed loop operation, the ecu determines how much fuel to add based on feedback from the o2 sensors. If a restriction is removed or flow is improved, that gives more air at the same throttle angle, power will increase. Short term fuel trim will add or remove whatever fuel is required to hit target. Over time, long term fuel trim will add a portion of this change to the openloop fueling tables.

you can improve mileage if you are able to reach a higher speed than before at the same throttle angle, and you could even alter the o2 sensor signal by a fraction of a volt to make the ecu think its running lean and end up with a 13.8afr and improve mileage.

the best way to answer these question is understanding how adaptation tables work and then to test it. See what power something makes or loses at a 20% throttle angle, and then see what mac speed you can attain on the dyno before and after again at 20% throttle angle.

this will tell you if youve improved efficiency.

i want to find an improved airbox(cold air) that can still match up to a snorkel.
Have you looked at River Raiders?
 

Bdawg497

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Largely a bunch of hokum, and filtration quality in even the best brands is dubious at best.

Speaking to the filtration aspect, using them on high performance engines with a short life expectancy and operating on the ragged edge of reliability may have some virtue. Using them on an engine you are wanting to keep operating for hundreds of thousands of miles is counter productive.

Used oil analysis will almost always show an increase in silica(sand), which only gets into the engine through the fuel(infinitesimally small chance of this happening) and intake air.

Like many other things people will tell you they have used them for years without issue, and I would bet that they have. But issues unseen is not the same thing as issues non-existent. Very few people do used oil analysis, particularly on gas engines.

With regards to the "cold aspect" virtually all of these units use thin wall aluminum or steel ducting which sinks engine bay heat and transfers that heat the the charge air. If they insulated them they would work better, but not look cool, hence they are largely form over function which is in stark contrast to their purported value.

So if you are looking for a way to burn some cash, increase engine noise, potentially decrease the service life of the engine, while possibly gaining imperceptible amounts of horsepower then a CAI is for you. If you just want it to look cool and have something to talk about CAI is also for you. If none of the above is true, then trust that the engineers who purpose built the oem air box had some idea what they were doing and keep your money.
As an engineer, you completely miss the mark with this comment. OEM engineers have a different focus and goal.
If you aim to be a wet blanket, troll another site. This forum is meant for people who enjoy their Jeeps
 

bgenlvtex

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As an engineer, you completely miss the mark with this comment. OEM engineers have a different focus and goal.
If you aim to be a wet blanket, troll another site. This forum is meant for people who enjoy their Jeeps
Having owned several CAI and "washable" breather elements, and having conducted UOA on most of them, I sneer in the general direction of your "engineer".

If you want one buy one.
 

KurtP

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Having owned several CAI and "washable" breather elements, and having conducted UOA on most of them, I sneer in the general direction of your "engineer".

If you want one buy one.
what did UOA's reveal?
 

KurtP

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High silica count
what were the numbers on paper filters vs a washable, and how many miles on each?

did you get results for oil and filter? Or just oil?

thnx
 
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bgenlvtex

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what were the numbers on paper filters vs a washable, and how many miles on each?

did you get results for oil and filter? Or just oil?

thnx
Years ago so no i cannot quote the numbers, yes had UOA with oem paper and UOA with famous name cheesecloth and silica significantly higher.
Blackstone or any other lab can help you conduct your own research
 

KurtP

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Years ago so no i cannot quote the numbers, yes had UOA with oem paper and UOA with famous name cheesecloth and silica significantly higher.
Blackstone or any other lab can help you conduct your own research
yeah but no point re inventing a wheel when you might find one still rolling
 

bgenlvtex

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yeah but no point re inventing a wheel when you might find one still rolling
If I bought a vehicle that already had a CAI and washable filter installed(very unlikely) I would probably not go to significant expense to buy an oem and replace it. If it CAME with both, yes I would reinstall the oem.

This is a hotly contested and for some emotional topic. HP/TQ gains are questionably measurable and some will argue perceptible to the driver. Filtration in many cases is measurably less efficient and some would argue detrimentally. In a world that thrives on polarity in 2020, this is a topic that can find neutrality largely due to the fact that it is "not my engine,not my money and consequently I dngaf". This is quite literally a matter of get whatever you want, it's your money.

I want a Hauk River Raider so bad I wake up with the cold sweats and have thought about selling my used underwear in vending machines in Japan to fund it, but it is all built around a washable filter and i hate that. I have other projects going and have little free time to see if I can source an efficient breather element for that box that isn't cheesecloth.
 

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