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BringTheLightnin

BringTheLightnin

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If I were to delete the aux battery and get a bigger main battery. Would the auto start/stop stop working all together? Or would it all work off the one battery?
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If I were to delete the aux battery and get a bigger main battery. Would the auto start/stop stop working all together? Or would it all work off the one battery?
ESS will work off the one battery. Not ideal but most who do the aux delete install a ESS eliminator device to be constantly off.

If ESS is important to you, then keep the aux battery.
 

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ESS will work off the one battery. Not ideal but most who do the aux delete install a ESS eliminator device to be constantly off.

If ESS is important to you, then keep the aux battery.
Aren't the people who sell the ESS kill device a sponsor or forum member?


If I were to delete the aux battery and get a bigger main battery. Would the auto start/stop stop working all together? Or would it all work off the one battery?
What Hootbro said.
If your truck did not come with aux switches, you may have the smaller main battery. Those with the aux switches got a bigger main battery.
It will work fine with one battery if you follow the aux battery delete method Jerry posted about a while back - disconnect aux battery negative at the main battery neg terminal, pull fuse F42 (I believe that's correct fuse number).
Or you can simply buy and install the biggest and best batteries you can find to fit into the truck.
Lot's of options.
I'd not try to run with ESS off a main battery that is older or has lost capacity. Batteries lose capacity with age and "Cycles" depending on how the truck is used.
 

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If I were to delete the aux battery and get a bigger main battery. Would the auto start/stop stop working all together? Or would it all work off the one battery?
It will work off of one battery for 6 ESS events for every power cycle before it gets disabled. The system looks for a difference in the battery voltages during an ESS event and if it sees identical voltages 6 times in a row, it assumes there is a fault with the system and disables it.
 

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It will work off of one battery for 6 ESS events for every power cycle before it gets disabled. The system looks for a difference in the battery voltages during an ESS event and if it sees identical voltages 6 times in a row, it assumes there is a fault with the system and disables it.
I assume it's pretty picky as when I measured the voltages on mine during a couple of ESS stop events, it was running within a few hundredths of a volt within each other. If it looked only at tenths of a volt, it would have often seen identical voltages.
On mine, the aux battery would drop, say, to 12.3 while the main battery was doing 12.41 then it would drop to 12.39 or so, and after a bit the aux battery would drop to 12.2
I figured they were running within 0.07 volts of each other at one point.
 
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So I know it's been a bit but never ended up going to the dealer. Tried everything but 2 days ago I installed an adjustable track bar and a tazer mini. Now the auto start stop works all of a sudden...
 

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Could be a change in the weather impacted the batteries and now they are up to snuff, or, could be a problem in the PCM or otherwise is no longer current.
There's only one way to know that for sure - use something to do a deep scan for codes, check for faults. Not just the typical quick check most devices and even some software use.
For example - JSCAN can do a quick scan and catch obvious faults, or you can do a deeper scan which may show faults shown in the radio, TCM and so on.
The MIL only lights for certain things and only when requested.

Here is an example - misfires, intermittent, MIL not requested, and ESS would not work -


___________________________
2021/01/04 11:52:06.281
Faults found.
P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
 
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BringTheLightnin

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Could be a change in the weather impacted the batteries and now they are up to snuff, or, could be a problem in the PCM or otherwise is no longer current.
There's only one way to know that for sure - use something to do a deep scan for codes, check for faults. Not just the typical quick check most devices and even some software use.
For example - JSCAN can do a quick scan and catch obvious faults, or you can do a deeper scan which may show faults shown in the radio, TCM and so on.
The MIL only lights for certain things and only when requested.

Here is an example - misfires, intermittent, MIL not requested, and ESS would not work -


___________________________
2021/01/04 11:52:06.281
Faults found.
P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
What would I use to check that? I did clear everything with the tazer when I was done with the track bar as my steering wheel was crooked and threw a code for the traction control system so after centering the steering wheel and clearing all the codes it ended up working the next day
 

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OP, I had the same issue on my 21 Texas Trail with 18,000 miles. Stop/Start Not Ready on the display, but no warning light on the dash. Start/Stop system didn't work.

Took it to dealer service dept. and they replaced the aux battery and it worked for a day or two, then back to not working. Took it back to dealer service dept. and they replaced the main battery and it began to work again and stayed working.

Culprit was main battery bad. Might be your issue too.
This was my experience exactly
 

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My aux battery failed after 3 years which is lame. Dealer advised that I should replace both batteries but I only replaced the aux battery. It will auto stop start one time per key cycle, but it will not tell me why it isn't ready. I guess it doesn't like the main battery. I'm not replacing batteries every 3 years because the ECU is too picky about them...

For the record, I replaced the battery from the top because I don't like messing with those plastic rivet things. It wasn't too much hassle, and I bet I can do it in 10-15 minutes next time.
 

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Consider yourself lucky and never worry about it again... I hate that function and always turn it off anyways.
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