Auto Swap. Seriously

[loudog3114]

You’re correct, gears don’t add power. But they absolutely do put you back in the power band if you’ve changed the size of your tires, allowing you to use the power more effectively.

There is no power band. I don't know if you have the 3.6 or if you do, if you drive like I do, but no matter what the rpm there is no power to be found on this motor.

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[Dewyaw]

There is no power band. I don't know if you have the 3.6 or if you do, if you drive like I do, but no matter what the rpm there is no power to be found on this motor.

Ok. I’m out.

 

[loudog3114]

Ok. I’m out.

I'm just regurgitating this now for future searches of a thread like this. Gears are not a solution to lack of power at speed with a manual . Stay in a lower gear, its the same exact effect. Is there more power at 3-4k then there is at 2.5k Sure. is there enough? God no.

 

[LostWoods]

Lots of talk about gears; here's why they will make no difference. 1 - First is fine where it is. If anything it's not tall enough. So a regear will just have me starting in second. 2 - It's a manual. I can keep it in a higher gear to keep the rpms up. There's still no power, it just makes more noise. it's really the trans ratios that need to be closer. Between 3rd and 4th the rpms change by 1500. 1500 rpm! If they weren't so ambitious with 6th trying to eek out that horse shit mpg rating and kept the ratios closer it would have been a much better experience. It really needs to cruise on the highway at at least 3k to have any ability to get out of its own way. 5th and 6th hover around 2k. At 2k uphill, it quits.

All regearing will solve is reverse which just isn't worth the cost.

Not being a naysayer; I came here for the input. But I have thought of all of this.

I totally get this and after fighting with my Tacoma's 6MT for the same reason, I'm now in an AT. The problem is they all try to do the double OD thing where 6th is only slightly taller than what 5th was on most 5MT boxes so 5th gear is entirely useless. Meanwhile, Jeep is trying to eek out all the crawl ratio they can so first is super short and you're trying to make up all that space before you get to the 1:1 4th gear.

I hope that the Bronco's new Getrag transmission becomes widely available... The super low crawler gear solves the crawl ratio issue but first is only around 4.3:1 (vs Jeep's 5.1:1) so it keeps tighter ratios all while giving an actual deep double OD so running gears doesn't have you spinning 3k at 80 on the freeway. Assuming it doesn't have mechanical issues, it sounds like a dream box.

 

[AustinL911]

I guess I'm not following your logic here. You put on some heavy ass 37s, didn't regear to compensate for the taller final drive w/ the significant additional rolling mass, and think an auto will fix this? I'm not trying to be a dick, but I'm also not sure what you think an auto is going to solve for you? You've got the entire Jeep community - who has been through this exact scenario 1000x - telling you that you need to regear it, and yet, you're set on that not being the answer. It is, so I guess I don't know what else to tell you. It's a heavy Jeep truck, not a Raptor. Yes, we all would have loved for Jeep to tweak a few things, but the fact is they didn't. I will concede that reverse is too tall. Again, not much we can do for that.

Let's take a look at the ratios between the auto and the stick:
Auto:
1st - 4.71
2nd - 3.13
3rd - 2.1
4th - 1.67
5th - 1.28
6th - 1.00
7th - 0.84
8th - 0.67
R - 3.30

Stick:
1st - 5.13
2nd - 2.63
3rd - 1.53
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.81
6th - 0.72
R - 4.49

Numerically, the stick has more balls in 1st gear. It also has more balls in Reverse. It also has more balls in it's top gear, but probably takes a hit with highway MPG. Yea, you might have to drop a gear to get it to do what you want, but the auto in many places has to drop two gears to accomplish the same thing. You just don't notice as much because you're not the one doing the adapting.

I will acknowledge that the auto obviously has a torque converter, so its doing much of 'slipping' for you, but isn't that the appeal of having a stick to begin with? You get to do the fun stuff? I also acknowledge that the clutch should be better in the stick. Even Jeep acknowledges this.

Here's what I suggest. Throw your stock 33s back on and drive around with it for awhile. If that power level is acceptable for you, then you need a regear for your 37s. If not, sell it and go get something with more power. I certainly don't feel like an auto will fix your problem, more like put a bandaid on it because you still need appropriate gears.

Just an FYI, but I'll personally be going with 35s and 4.88s (probably) or even 5.13s (less likely) when I do cross that bridge.

 

[LostWoods]

I'm just regurgitating this now for future searches of a thread like this. Gears are not a solution to lack of power at speed with a manual . Stay in a lower gear, its the same exact effect. Is there more power at 3-4k then there is at 2.5k Sure. is there enough? God no.

I guess what I'm missing here is where the problem is? Do you just not like noise?

If you don't like the power with the MT you're sure as hell not going to like it with the AT. There's no more power to be had and no matter how good of an AT it is, it's still a traditional AT that has typical AT quirks. The only benefit to the AT for you is that it's built to handle supercharger power so you can add power but it sounds to me like you just need a different truck.

There is no power band. I don't know if you have the 3.6 or if you do, if you drive like I do, but no matter what the rpm there is no power to be found on this motor.

Saw this one after posting but if this is your attitude, just sell the truck and move on because nothing can save it for you. The truck isn't the problem, you are. You can't hit a screw with a hammer and get pissed off when it doesn't work. The truck likes the revs and if you expect it to dig out down low like a V8 then it's your expectations that are at fault. It's not a secret that this is how modern V6 engines operate.

 

[loudog3114]

I totally get this and after fighting with my Tacoma's 6MT for the same reason, I'm now in an AT. The problem is they all try to do the double OD thing where 6th is only slightly taller than what 5th was on most 5MT boxes so 5th gear is entirely useless. Meanwhile, Jeep is trying to eek out all the crawl ratio they can so first is super short and you're trying to make up all that space before you get to the 1:1 4th gear.

Eggggggggggxactly.

I guess I'm not following your logic here. You put on some heavy ass 37s, didn't regear to compensate for the taller final drive w/ the significant additional rolling mass, and think an auto will fix this?

No, I think an auto will stop me having to bounce back and forth between gears every time I reach a hill, as it is done... automatically.

Gears will do nothing for my situation. All they will do is put me in 5th or 6th when I was in 4th before. Ill still be sitting at 3k+ cruising. Still loud. Still no power. Still shitty MPG (because of the loud and no power). Still not a solution.

A diesel is a solution.

 

[Jt2187]

It might be helpful to break up your problem into two parts: 1) You feel like it's underpowered and 2) You're not happy with the transmission (gear ratios, clutch, tall reverse, etc.)

Solving for number one with a supercharger won't fix number two, could possibly even make it worse given the torque constraint.

Solving for number two with an auto won't fix number one.

So you're options are down to either a complete powertrain swap or a new truck. New truck is going to be the better option financially. Given you have a desirable color and plenty of folks out there who would want the stick you should be able to get decent trade-in value. I've heard of people doing pretty well selling to Carvana or one of those other online dealers. You might also have some luck listing it in the for sale section of this forum.

 

[AustinL911]

Hold on...


...Punk'n? Stick? How many miles? What options?

 

[loudog3114]

Hold on...


...Punk'n? Stick? How many miles? What options?

7k miles. Loaded to the brim. Even has adaptive cruise control.

 

[MrKnowitall]

Gears don't add power, they change rpm. No matter what the rpm, there is no power with this motor.

You're right. Gears don't add power. Neither do automatic transmissions.

 

[InvertedLogic]

Cheaper and easier to return to stock, trade for another one, and reinstall mods. With used car values as they are, you may only take a few $k haircut and start back at 0mi.

 

[Gvsukids]

7k miles. Loaded to the brim. Even has adaptive cruise control.

It took you 7,000 mi to come to this conclusion? Or were you hoping something would change as a broken? Better take a automatic Rubicon for a test drive and hook it up to your boat to see how it tows.
Like the 3rd gen tacoma, the Gladiator and most modern midsize trucks find the power band over 4000 rpm.

 

[mike921921]

Cheaper and easier to return to stock, trade for another one, and reinstall mods. With used car values as they are, you may only take a few $k haircut and start back at 0mi.

Gotta be cheaper than a $35K 392 swap - or wait for the factory 392 option (if it ever appears) and trade...

 

[Mark Doiron]

I have geared in the past. Gears don't add power, they change rpm. ...

Well, I guess Archimedes was wrong about that whole moving the planet thing.

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