Axle off center with 2" Mopar lift kit?

[AEsco48]

You are correct In your terminology, but it’s more common for people to measure how much tire sticks out of a fender on each side, and make a conclusion about it rather than thinking like you did. Most people will see a driver side tire sticking out 1/2” farther than the passenger side, and conclude that the axle is off 1/2”, which it isn’t.

If a person were to measure on the drivers side from the fender vertical line to the tire vertical line and it sticks out 1/2" towards the driver side, then am i correct in thinking that on the passenger side the measurement would be 1/2" inside the fender line? If so the axle still needs to be moved 1/2" towards the passenger side to get the axle lined up.

What you are describing is if you were measuring a picture frome between two walls or columns. If one side measured 5" and the other side measured 6" (a 1" difference), in this case yes, you would move the picture frame 1/2" to get it centered between the walls/column. I guess if you had your jeep parked in your garage doorway and measured from the wheel to the garage door way on each side... then yes your method/point of view would be correct. But in terms of the axle being off center...my way (i think) makes more sense.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Nope, thats if you want to split the difference, not correct an off center vs the true center. If the center line of the axle is 1/2" from the centerline of the jeep, you have to move the axle 1/2" to get it back in the center...

I could draw a picture if you would like...

No need to be insulting. Geesh, draw a picture? That's not how most people check to see if it's off-center.
They look at how far the tire sticks out. That's what people have been talking about. "My left tire sticks out 1/2" further than the left" is how most folks here measure it. (and there's not a center line to go by since the punkin isn't in the middle)
I'd like to see how many here measure the axle end to end and mark a line on it, then measure the frame and mark a line and see how far off it it.
My description fits how most people measure their differences.
I know about the other - I have frame and chassis charts and measurements, having done massive body straightening out years ago.

Here's another way to look at it - I've done cabinets, shelving, raised panel doors and other things in woodworking. If you are making a cabinet, to ensure it's "square", you measure from upper left to lower right corner, and then measure from upper right to lower left corner and compare.
If they are not the same, the cabinet is out of square. If it's off 3/8" you'll often hear a person say it's off 3/8" - but it's not. It's only off 3/16"
When I make cabinets, etc. - or measuring axle centering, I do the math in my head. If there's a 1/2" difference, I know I need to move it 1/4". I don't even think about it, it's automatic. In fact, all through school my biggest issue with tests was not "showing my work" as things come automatically, and I don't spend any effort explaining how I got there. With ADHD, you often can't - you just know things, but can't explain how you know. ( I look at projects I did 20 years ago as if someone else did them as I can't explain how I did it - I just did it)
Anyway, I do things like this automatically, not thinking about it right out front.
It's out of square 3/8" so I know I need to move those corners closer together by 3/16" (and the others will move in the same amount - a difference of 3/8" total)

Wheel sticks out 1/4" on one side, it's in by 1/4" on the other side, a total of 1/2" DIFFERENCE but you only move the axle half that much to fix it. No imaginary lines needed - it's all automatic for me.

 

[93civej1]

Nope, thats if you want to split the difference, not correct an off center vs the true center. If the center line of the axle is 1/2" from the centerline of the jeep, you have to move the axle 1/2" to get it back in the center...

I could draw a picture if you would like...

thats what I would think too.

 

[93civej1]

It seems to me if you have 1/2” more on one side. Your other side is going to be off 1/2”. If you moved it over 1/4” back would you not only gain 1/4” on the other side , thus making the other side still off the 1/4” ???

 

[Renegade]

It seems to me if you have 1/2” more on one side. Your other side is going to be off 1/2”. If you moved it over 1/4” back would you not only gain 1/4” on the other side , thus making the other side still off the 1/4” ???

No, because they move together. Let’s say your driver’s side tire is 1/2” out past the edge of the flare and your passenger side is even with the flare. When you move the axle 1/4”, your driver side becomes 1/4” outside of the flare and your passenger side also becomes 1/4” outside the flare.

 

[rmerkushen]

You are correct In your terminology, but it’s more common for people to measure how much tire sticks out of a fender on each side, and make a conclusion about it rather than thinking like you did. Most people will see a driver side tire sticking out 1/2” farther than the passenger side, and conclude that the axle is off 1/2”, which it isn’t.

You can also buy a wheel for the one side to have 12 mm more aggressive offset to fix axle misalignment. Now we are talking!!1

IN all seriousness, I am contemplating Mopar lift and was wondering about axle misalignment. It seems odd that Mopar didn't include it. I don't notice much offset on my rubicon with 1.5 inch spacer, another .5 inch is not going to make any difference.

How bad is the rear?

 

[Renegade]

You can also buy a wheel for the one side to have 12 mm more aggressive offset to fix axle misalignment. Now we are talking!!1

IN all seriousness, I am contemplating Mopar lift and was wondering about axle misalignment. It seems odd that Mopar didn't include it. I don't notice much offset on my rubicon with 1.5 inch spacer, another .5 inch is not going to make any difference.

How bad is the rear?

I’m running 1.5” spacerS in the rear, and it is inconsequential. The angle of the rear track bar is much less than the front due to the tall axle-side bracket.

 

[AEsco48]

No need to be insulting. Geesh, draw a picture? That's not how most people check to see if it's off-center.
They look at how far the tire sticks out. That's what people have been talking about. "My left tire sticks out 1/2" further than the left" is how most folks here measure it. (and there's not a center line to go by since the punkin isn't in the middle)
I'd like to see how many here measure the axle end to end and mark a line on it, then measure the frame and mark a line and see how far off it it.
My description fits how most people measure their differences.
I know about the other - I have frame and chassis charts and measurements, having done massive body straightening out years ago.

Here's another way to look at it - I've done cabinets, shelving, raised panel doors and other things in woodworking. If you are making a cabinet, to ensure it's "square", you measure from upper left to lower right corner, and then measure from upper right to lower left corner and compare.
If they are not the same, the cabinet is out of square. If it's off 3/8" you'll often hear a person say it's off 3/8" - but it's not. It's only off 3/16"
When I make cabinets, etc. - or measuring axle centering, I do the math in my head. If there's a 1/2" difference, I know I need to move it 1/4". I don't even think about it, it's automatic. In fact, all through school my biggest issue with tests was not "showing my work" as things come automatically, and I don't spend any effort explaining how I got there. With ADHD, you often can't - you just know things, but can't explain how you know. ( I look at projects I did 20 years ago as if someone else did them as I can't explain how I did it - I just did it)
Anyway, I do things like this automatically, not thinking about it right out front.
It's out of square 3/8" so I know I need to move those corners closer together by 3/16" (and the others will move in the same amount - a difference of 3/8" total)

Wheel sticks out 1/4" on one side, it's in by 1/4" on the other side, a total of 1/2" DIFFERENCE but you only move the axle half that much to fix it. No imaginary lines needed - it's all automatic for me.

@ShadowsPapa
Insulting.... what? Is this a Jeep forum or the my little pretty princes forum?

I literally drew myself a picture before replying to make sure I was not confused. See my explanation/post before your recent reply.

This is what you last wrote after you edited your initial post, are are agreeing with me:
"Wheel sticks out 1/4" on one side, it's in by 1/4" on the other side, a total of 1/2" DIFFERENCE but you only move the axle half that much to fix it. No imaginary lines needed - it's all automatic for me."

So if a total of 1/2" difference, but you only move it half that much, which is 1/4".... thats exactly what im saying. "If a person were to measure on the drivers side from the fender vertical line to the tire vertical line and it sticks out 1/2" towards the driver side, then am i correct in thinking that on the passenger side the measurement would be 1/2" inside the fender line? If so the axle still needs to be moved 1/2" towards the passenger side to get the axle lined up."

 

[Factoid]

Wow, you guys crack me up!

The way you determine how far off it is, is to measure both sides and subtract them from each other. In the 1/2” example above, 1/2” minus -1/2” equals one inch. Move the axle half that and it is centered. That was 1/2”.

Don‘t make it more complicated than it needs to be.

Now, more importantly, If you have two beers and I take one you now only have half as many beers as you used to have, but you made a new friend!

 

[Renegade]

Wow, you guys crack me up!

The way you determine how far off it is, is to measure both sides and subtract them from each other. In the 1/2” example above, 1/2” minus -1/2” equals one inch. Move the axle half that and it is centered. That was 1/2”.

Don‘t make it more complicated than it needs to be.

Now, more importantly, If you have two beers and I take one you now only have half as many beers as you used to have, but you made a new friend!

-=

 

[HzrInAz]

I’m running 1.5” spacerS in the rear, and it is inconsequential. The angle of the rear track bar is much less than the front due to the tall axle-side bracket.

Where did you find 1.5” spacers? I’ve only seen one and I’m not familiar with the brand. I did 3/4” but it’s not enough. Did you relocate the shock brackets? Thanks!

 

[Renegade]

Where did you find 1.5” spacers? I’ve only seen one and I’m not familiar with the brand. I did 3/4” but it’s not enough. Did you relocate the shock brackets? Thanks!

They are out of a Daystar 2” lift. I haven’t seen them advertised separately, but you could probably buy them if you find the part number. Yes, I was initially using shock spacers, but moved to 28” Fox 2.0 shocks.

 

[Surfer Boy]

Watch YouTube the ultimate Mopar lift from Gator overland. He added parts total of $1300 to correct the off Center problem
Who needs to buy a lift kit with that flaw? A dumbass like me. After watching the video, I'm hoping I can return the lift kit and go with EVO stage 4, king shocks, relocation brackets, control arms and many extras. It's $5400. It will probably total over $7200. But the Mopar lift sucks. If I can't return it, O will spend the $1300+labor.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Watch YouTube the ultimate Mopar lift from Gator overland. He added parts total of $1300 to correct the off Center problem
Who needs to buy a lift kit with that flaw? A dumbass like me. After watching the video, I'm hoping I can return the lift kit and go with EVO stage 4, king shocks, relocation brackets, control arms and many extras. It's $5400. It will probably total over $7200. But the Mopar lift sucks. If I can't return it, O will spend the $1300+labor.

A $189 rough country adjustable track bar will correct the off center problem, not sure why anyone would spend $1300 to correct a off center axle. Even if you went with The Yeti Steersmarts setup it would only be around $400. When I decide to add one it will be the rough country one though. I know people are gonna say, rough country sucks, this and that, but 5 yrs on my JKU and banging the heck out of it and it was still rocking strong when I sold it. It also adjust on the jeep rather than off. If you compared the teraflex one to the rough country one you would have a tough time telling them apart.

 

[Surfer Boy]

A $189 rough country adjustable track bar will correct the off center problem, not sure why anyone would spend $1300 to correct a off center axle. Even if you went with The Yeti Steersmarts setup it would only be around $400. When I decide to add one it will be the rough country one though. I know people are gonna say, rough country sucks, this and that, but 5 yrs on my JKU and banging the heck out of it and it was still rocking strong when I sold it. It also adjust on the jeep rather than off. If you compared the teraflex one to the rough country one you would have a tough time telling them apart.

$1300 were

A $189 rough country adjustable track bar will correct the off center problem, not sure why anyone would spend $1300 to correct a off center axle. Even if you went with The Yeti Steersmarts setup it would only be around $400. When I decide to add one it will be the rough country one though. I know people are gonna say, rough country sucks, this and that, but 5 yrs on my JKU and banging the heck out of it and it was still rocking strong when I sold it. It also adjust on the jeep rather than off. If you compared the teraflex one to the rough country one you would have a tough time telling them apart.

I watched the youtube video and totaled the additional parts to recenter with rock crawler relocation brackets, adjustable drag links with Griffin atenuator, upgrade to steer smart, adjustable track bar and 3/4" Daystar spacers. Is it all necessary? I want to know.

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