Lunentucker
Well-Known Member
Send them on over!Great, now the Brits and Aussies are going to be after you.
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Send them on over!Great, now the Brits and Aussies are going to be after you.
Here’s a pic of them:They are from Rock Krawler:
RKKRK07430 - Driver
RKKRK07431 - Passenger
Passenger is just .5” thicker, but otherwise interchangeable. I had to do a PO through @Northridge4x4 as one of them wasn’t listed.
That's a replacement CV joint to replace the factory CV joint at the transfer case end of the drive shaft.I am certainly unqualified in regards to this discussion, but would the following product from Teraflex help any of the situations? It says “up to 15 degrees.” ?https://teraflex.com/jl-jt-factory-replacement-cv-joint-kit-high-angle-rzeppa.html
Yeah I'm not going to lie, I am extremely disappointed and I wouldn't do it again. I would have limited myself on my shocks and kept using the factory driveshaft and I will also recommend this to people looking to do the same. Losing the ability to use 4hi at higher speeds is just unacceptable. I will say this is the first purchase I've made where I was 100% unhappy. I just cant believe that all these people installing these driveshafts have failed to mention this problem! I may look at trying to figure out how to repair my OEM shaft or find someone getting rid of theirs and installing that. I'm sure at this point Adam's wouldn't let me return it after I installed it. And having the money to reclock my C's are out of the question!Yeah unfortunately for me I am beginning to see this now. Oh well, this is certainly not the first time I've made a purchase of a product that has left me somewhat disappointed. Stronger? Well I really don't know but I can say for sure it's a lot bigger and heavier.
I actually like the idea of reclocking the C’s. Have you priced that?Yeah I'm not going to lie, I am extremely disappointed and I wouldn't do it again. I would have limited myself on my shocks and kept using the factory driveshaft and I will also recommend this to people looking to do the same. Losing the ability to use 4hi at higher speeds is just unacceptable. I will say this is the first purchase I've made where I was 100% unhappy. I just cant believe that all these people installing these driveshafts have failed to mention this problem! I may look at trying to figure out how to repair my OEM shaft or find someone getting rid of theirs and installing that. I'm sure at this point Adam's wouldn't let me return it after I installed it. And having the money to reclock my C's are out of the question!
I have not but would be interested if I could find a shop locally to do it and the cost was decent. I know its a lot of work just to remove everything from the axle housing. I may look into it when I go to have the Jeep regeared. That's if its not traded in by that time!I actually like the idea of reclocking the C’s. Have you priced that?
I found a video of a shop doing it to a dana44 for a scout. They carefully ground the weld away until they could see the crack. They didn’t even remove the c’s. Just rotated them with a 3lb hammer. Then rewelded them. Pretty cool. Beyond my welding skills by miles though.I have not but would be interested if I could find a shop locally to do it and the cost was decent. I know its a lot of work just to remove everything from the axle housing. I may look into it when I go to have the Jeep regeared. That's if its not traded in by that time!
Yeah I just watched that video this morning.I found a video of a shop doing it to a dana44 for a scout. They carefully ground the weld away until they could see the crack. They didn’t even remove the c’s. Just rotated them with a 3lb hammer. Then rewelded them. Pretty cool. Beyond my welding skills by miles though.
Can I assume you’ve already removed, broken down, and started cutting your axles? ? I’m sure everything will be fine.Yeah I just watched that video this morning.
I've never done it on an axle tube, but used to have to deal with driveshaft changes - including some coming from the factory with the joints out of phase. Sometimes we used a big pipe cutter to make a perfect cut where we wanted it, rotated the yoke, and welded it back in place.I found a video of a shop doing it to a dana44 for a scout. They carefully ground the weld away until they could see the crack. They didn’t even remove the c’s. Just rotated them with a 3lb hammer. Then rewelded them. Pretty cool. Beyond my welding skills by miles though.
I guess ultimately I am disappointed as well. Especially considering the cost of these shafts. I am also surprised there is little to no mention of the vibration issues associated with aftermarket shafts from other customers. I'm not singling out Adam's because I don't believe it is defective workmanship. I am confident any one piece shaft will do the same thing IF the pinion angles are not corrected for said shafts. There's a reason FCA chose to use Rzeppa joints and a 2 piece rear shaft. For me personally. I'm not as affected since I can correct my rear pinion angle rather easily and I don't use 4H for any kind of speeds over 25 mph. Hell, Adam's even had some kind of paper wrapped around each shaft stating something about possible vibration which I very quickly read and yanked it off because my eyes were drawn like a magnet to that cool ass sticker!! ? . Most people don't mention an issue like this because the $1700 they just dropped on new drive shafts HAS to be better than stock!! Nope, not necessarily. I do believe they are stronger than the OEM shafts but it is a trade off. Honestly, the day I had to remove a guy's failed Rzeppa shaft on the trail was when I decided to "upgrade" my shafts. Live and learn. I'll make it work, that's what I do.Yeah I'm not going to lie, I am extremely disappointed and I wouldn't do it again. I would have limited myself on my shocks and kept using the factory driveshaft and I will also recommend this to people looking to do the same. Losing the ability to use 4hi at higher speeds is just unacceptable. I will say this is the first purchase I've made where I was 100% unhappy. I just cant believe that all these people installing these driveshafts have failed to mention this problem! I may look at trying to figure out how to repair my OEM shaft or find someone getting rid of theirs and installing that. I'm sure at this point Adam's wouldn't let me return it after I installed it. And having the money to reclock my C's are out of the question!
I bring a few things with me just in case. ?What do people do when a double cardan joint fails on the trail? And they do fail. There's a reason I have a tool for them and have have to rebuild them in past years.
Man I've got a complete D44 that I removed from my Willys when I installed my Rubi axles. Problem is they're not the wide track. But then again, does that extra 1-1/2" really make that much difference? Probably not but my rcv axles wouldn't work with them so there's that. I've already got another wide track rear D44 sitting in the shop that I'm trying to decide what to do with.Can I assume you’ve already removed, broken down, and started cutting your axles? ? I’m sure everything will be fine.
Seriously though, it would be nice to get a hold of a used front Dana44 to have rotated. Then just swap it in whenever.