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RedTRex

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Query - why is everyone so concerned about a machined hole that they obviously saw a reason for in the design, but no one can figure it out?

I know now I need to go out to my shop, uncover a bunch of engines, blocks and heads I have out there and get some photos and post and see if the members can figure out some of those areas.

This hole shown is obviously not hurting any engines, so why such a mystery?

IS there oil leaking out of that hole?
Is there wear or marking as if something was bolted there but is now missing?
Is there coolant seeping out?
Did the block crack there?

Okay, I like challenges.....

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Klutch

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They specify 87 so I'd not put anything less in it. Otherwise they'd have "high altitude versions". The PCM compensates for altitude differences. MAP does that.
I'd leave 85 for legacy vehicles, personally, those tuned for high altitude.
If the book doesn't say "you can feel free to run 85 if you live above xxx feet", since they specify 87, I'd never run less, myself.

This is straight from the book - have an issue? Good luck arguing with 'em as they spell it out very plainly - your call, but this seems pretty black and white to me - use less than 87 you are on your own because you didn't take them seriously. But then everyone on the internet is an engineer better than those making these engines LOL.

--------------------FROM THE BOOK------------------

While operating on gasoline with an octane number of 87,
hearing a light knocking sound from the engine is not a cause
for concern. However, if the engine is heard making a heavy
knocking sound, see your dealer immediately.
Use of gasoline with an octane number lower than 87 can cause engine
failure and may void or not be covered by the New Vehicle
Limited Warranty
That's a good point. I never thought about it because here at 6,000 feet above sea level, 85 octane is "Regular" gasoline. I've never had any problems with knocking or pinging. But I really should just pony up a few extra cents per gallon for the 89 octane.
 

ShadowsPapa

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That's a good point. I never thought about it because here at 6,000 feet above sea level, 85 octane is "Regular" gasoline. I've never had any problems with knocking or pinging. But I really should just pony up a few extra cents per gallon for the 89 octane.
If we had 89 here, I'd use that just because. But it's either 87 or 91 IF you can find it, or 93 at Walmart (of all places)
My silverado had several extra HP and more torque when I used E85 - pulled my trailer a whole lot better but these things aren't rated for that much ethanol.
Bummer as the Chevy I could FEEL the difference when towing on our hills.
 

DAVECS1

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How hot is the oil getting?
How much boost - these are open deck engines, prone to breaking with too much boost.
That is why I am taking Data all the time. I used to work in Detroit as a controls engineer. I have spent many days in Dyno cells and engine assembly rooms. These days I do the same for construction equipment.
I run about 7 PSI, and with the right tuning and torque strategy this engine will take that forever, in my professional opinion. The data I am getting back from my most recent calibration, I would go out on a limb and say it is much better than what you get from the factory. I have no check engine lights, misfires, or confused shifts.
Even though this engine is open deck, this same block was designed for use with turbo variants. So it is not totally I'll equipped. If it all does go south. A brand new short block from chrysler is less than what I paid for forced induction and Prodigy sells a Deck support and forged internals.
 

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That sticker refers to "E85" which is 85% ethanol and not 85 octane gasoline.
Right - this engine is made for a MAX of 15% ethanol. E85 is a no-go. That means no E85.

The book says nothing less than 87 octane.
So, no E85 and no 85 octane based on fuel door and owner manual.

Or maybe it means if you are 85 you can't drive it?
 

Gene26

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Someone - Not that dealer obviously - needs to do root cause analysis. Of course we will never hear anything about it.....
Dealer will not do one. New engine will come to them they will put the new engine in transfer some old parts to new one to make it complete. Send the old engine back to Jeep for the core charge credit. No root cause analysis. Not what the mechanics get paid for and they only get paid to fix things not to find out why it happened. Jeep might tear it down to find out but odds are it will just be stripped and rebuilt and out the door again when the next one blows up
 

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So driving up the highway I had a sudden loss of power, a shudder and barely got off the highway as the truck died. It had a piston blown through the block. I had it towed to my dealership to have him tell me "you're the second Gladiator we got this week with a piston through the block". Mine had 11K miles, the other had 7K miles. Hope this is isolated....
A rod through the block maybe but you'd be hard pressed to have a "piston" go through the block. What's really funny is the dealer saying the same thing.
 

slothead

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So driving up the highway I had a sudden loss of power, a shudder and barely got off the highway as the truck died. It had a piston blown through the block. I had it towed to my dealership to have him tell me "you're the second Gladiator we got this week with a piston through the block". Mine had 11K miles, the other had 7K miles. Hope this is isolated....
So do we!!
 

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Dealer will not do one. New engine will come to them they will put the new engine in transfer some old parts to new one to make it complete. Send the old engine back to Jeep for the core charge credit. No root cause analysis. Not what the mechanics get paid for and they only get paid to fix things not to find out why it happened. Jeep might tear it down to find out but odds are it will just be stripped and rebuilt and out the door again when the next one blows up
No rebuilding an engine with a rod protruding from from it. That short block is now scrap metal. Nothing will be reusable. Crank, pistons, and connecting rods are all shot after that kind of trauma. Likely the dealer will receive a new short block from Jeep onto which they bolt on the factory heads, intake and fuel injection system. Someone at Jeep might do some inspecting of the failed short block. If so, we'll never hear anything about it.
 

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No rebuilding an engine with a rod protruding from from it. That short block is now scrap metal. Nothing will be reusable. Crank, pistons, and connecting rods are all shot after that kind of trauma. Likely the dealer will receive a new short block from Jeep onto which they bolt on the factory heads, intake and fuel injection system. Someone at Jeep might do some inspecting of the failed short block. If so, we'll never hear anything about it.
We don't know about the crankshaft. For all we know it could be usable after re-grind to a -.010 or -.020 size
I've seen some very nasty engines with a crankshaft that's fine. They'll check it, MAYBE magnaflux for sure other methods, and decide.
When you buy a crankshaft kit it's very possible some of those come from engines with tosses rods.
Of course of the rod broke in a spot that allowed it to hammer on the crankshaft, that's a different animal.
In the old days we even reconditioned used rods. These days it's cheaper to just toss 'em and replace the rods. Rods are cheap.
I'd never re-use a cam or lifters/followers. Those wear in - on prior engines they could be reground, but not in the past 2 or 3 decades.

I've toured the plants that do "remanufactured" engines and other parts - it's something that may turn off some folks from using such things.
 

azrubi

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So driving up the highway I had a sudden loss of power, a shudder and barely got off the highway as the truck died. It had a piston blown through the block. I had it towed to my dealership to have him tell me "you're the second Gladiator we got this week with a piston through the block". Mine had 11K miles, the other had 7K miles. Hope this is isolated....
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So driving up the highway I had a sudden loss of power, a shudder and barely got off the highway as the truck died. It had a piston blown through the block. I had it towed to my dealership to have him tell me "you're the second Gladiator we got this week with a piston through the block". Mine had 11K miles, the other had 7K miles. Hope this is isolated....
I would tell them since my first engine blew up, you now owe me a Hemi swap. :rock:
 

cecaa850

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Could be for a fixture while performing some process, lifting, manipulating engine or block at some point in manufacture or installation.
Since these engines are also used in Dodge cars and other Jeep products, it could be for some other accessory or some item associated with those other FCA products. Don't they use these in the small Ram trucks? These are not Gladiator-only engines, so it's pretty wide open.

I guess i'd not sweat it since it appears nothing has been bolted in place, there's no mark as if anything is missing or leaking. It's amazing even on blocks from the 60s and 70s you see similar machined holes - used in the production of the engine to align, or machine or assemble at some point.

If it wasn't late I'd go get some shots of the engines and blocks I have in my shop with obviously machined holes in them - but no reason for it as far as the owner is concerned.
So I use to help hold or secure the engine while working on it, or hold a block while boring it. Makes good clamping spots.
More than likely, that's the hole for the block heater.

https://www.justforjeeps.com/engine-block-heater-kit-jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator-.html
 
 



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