Body mount bolt help – popping, but would rather avoid crackle and snap

[Glad Newbie]

I've seen people mention putting anti seize on these when reinstalling. Is that a good idea on something Jeep feels requires locktite?

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[LostWoods]

If you are using anti-seize, understand how it affects torque and determine if you actually think you'll be removing it in the future. If you do go that route then add checking their torque to your routine to keep them correct but personally, I think some blue loctite is the better choice.

 

[Tech Tim]

Ask whether or not you'll be pulling them again.

If NO = Use Loctite
If YES = Use antiseize.
If RustBelt = Cover everything in anti seize!

 

[Bbannongmu]

Maybe not so stupid, given the experience some folks have.

A few different manufacturers use the body bolts to attach rock sliders.

Not a stupid question. As stated to install steps/sliders like my Ace Rock sliders

 

[Geoarch]

Count me among the hundreds who've battled with the body mount bolts. I read everything I could find here, and watched every video I bumped into, but I'm up against something I haven't seen directly mentioned ...

Using a propane torch to apply heat, up to 60 seconds at a time, as many as five or six times in 15 minutes. Middle driver's side bolt was stiff, but came out after one or two blasts from the torch.

Front driver's bolt was VERY stiff, even after all the heating it backed out about 1/4 inch, then wouldn't go further. It started "popping" and turning a little at a time, but not coming out any more. I assume this is the hidden winged nut on the top jumping and spinning.

Back driver's did the same thing, but only after about one turn.

No amount of added heat could get me past this point on either bolt. I gave both bolts a few blasts with a weak-ass Harbor Freight impact wrench, but no motion at all. I could break out the breaker bar, but I don't want to be the latest fool who snaps one of these bolts.

With an added round of heat, I managed to get the driver's front and rear bolts back tight and torqued. I reinstalled the middle bolt (with a little anti-seize). I didn't even try the passenger side.

So I'm back to square one. I'm open to any and all advice. Should I:

• Keep heating and going at it, using the 1/2 turn out, 1/4 turn back method?
• Is it time for a serious impact driver?
• Do I get out the breaker bar and a pipe?
• Is there a trick I'm missing?
• Or do I take it to the dealer and see if I can pay them to remove and reinstall the body bolts with some anti-seize on them all?

If there are other options, I'm open to anything. I hate to waste winter days not working on the rig, but damn those stories about broken body bolts are scary.

When I installed a slider on a Tacoma, the weld nut broke, and I drilled it out and installed a helicoil insert. I'm not sure that helicoil would be strong enough for a body mount bolt, but it might.

 

[MPMB]

If YES = Use antiseize.

the world will soon be metallic gray.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If you decide to continue, ..... Keep heating with the torch, but, make sure you do not damage the huge rubber bushing. First, go only 1/4 turn back and 1/8 turn forward... or, 1/8 turn forward and 1/8 turn backward for a while. I did use a breaker bar for this. The slack you feel when changing directions does not necessarily mean that the welded nut is broken, but, it could be starting to get loose.... The more you go back and forth - even if you are not loosening much at all, the more you will loosen the red lock tite. Just take your time, even if you think you are not making progress... Even moving it a smidge one way and a smidge the other way is helping you loosen the red locktite. I would not put an impact driver on it.

Perfect. This worked for me without issue. It took a while and some patience, but all 6 loosened up enough to install my RSE steps. No impact used. Didn’t want to break one.

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