Brake Upgrades

[MPMB]

Bang for the buck. A set of pads. Something EBC Yellowstuff, or Hawks. A good flush with the ABS engaged. Step up would be stainless brake lines front and rear. Next would be a big brake kit.

This.

People need context. Rubber brake lines flex/expand with pressure. Having stainless brake lines "stiffens" the entire line, directing fluid to the caliper, adding more "power." Since it's hydraulics. If you were to have solid brake lines from the master cylinder to the caliper, the pedal would be Bill Clinton in the Oval Office sitting behind his desk.

Braking power is a result of surface area the pads interact with. IIRC braking info: soft pads are grippy and will wear out sooner, hard pads last a long time and uphold to heat well.

Solid, thick rotors will hold the most heat while still performing adequately, which is why ventilated and slotted rotors are the best all-around performance option. They'll stay cool, or cool quicker, and allow faster dispersion of gassing (I forget the actual term).

Drilled rotors are speed performance-oriented and not intended for significant dependability on stopping.

This is all for steel brakes, not exotic materials like carbon brakes, etc.

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[RubiNewbCB]

So i'm not the only one who noticed the brakes suck on these. Are there any pads that make a difference? I'd prefer to start small and go from there.

Z36 Brake Pads and Rotors
https://a.co/d/0gEjCznq

 

[daveb]

Much thanks gentlemen, stay safe!

 

[JeepinPete]

I've installed Hawk LTS pads (running 37's) on my JLUR. Significant improvement over stock, but do throw a lot of dust. I have zero complaints.

 

[22EcoDs]

Bang for the buck. A set of pads. Something EBC Yellowstuff, or Hawks. A good flush with the ABS engaged. Step up would be stainless brake lines front and rear. Next would be a big brake kit.

I have stainless lines up front and brembo pads. I'm happy.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

@MPMB That’s a very good down and dirty on brakes all around. Another thing to watch for is getting pads that are too hard of a composite for the rotors. They do exist and they cause all sorts of issues. When I started using harder pads on my Transit van I started noticing more wear and more noise on/from the rotors. Pads were too hard. Had em turned and went back to stock pads and Bob’s ya Uncle. All was once again right with the world.

Drilled are for slowing, but not stopping. They require knowledge to work them properly. Think racing decreasing momentum before a turn, but not full on threshold braking.

 

[Rusty PW]

I have stainless lines up front and brembo pads. I'm happy.

I have stainless front and rear.

Have to watch out for aftermarket lifetime pads. The pads are harder than what the rotors are. And will eat the rotors.

I have RacingBrake 2 piece rotors ($600 a piece) and Carbotech XP12 ($400) front and XP10 ($400) rear pads on my Nismo. With this combo. I can put your eyeballs in the windshield. The rotors are a different grade of cast iron. What the material of the rotors are made of, makes a difference in braking too plus pad life.

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