Broken Front Sway Bar Bushings-solved

[WilliamD]

Hey everyone,

Just noticed both my front sway bar rubber bushings on my ‘21 rubicon are broken and have mud inside them.

Has anyone had this issue? Do you know the torque specs of the bolts

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[Commodus]

Hey everyone,

Just noticed both my front sway bar rubber bushings on my ‘21 rubicon are broken and have mud inside them.

Has anyone had this issue? Do you know the torque specs of the bolts

They don’t look broken the frame sway bushings have a slit in them so they can be installed over the sway bar without removing it from the vehicle. Spray a good rubber lubricant on them and let it ride

 

[WilliamD]

They don’t look broken the frame sway bushings have a slit in them so they can be installed over the sway bar without removing it from the vehicle. Spray a good rubber lubricant on them and let it ride

Thanks! I think I’ll take it off and clean it and then use the lubricant. Thanks again!

 

[WilliamD]

They don’t look broken the frame sway bushings have a slit in them so they can be installed over the sway bar without removing it from the vehicle. Spray a good rubber lubricant on them and let it ride

Should I put the lubricant on the insides of the bushing as well as the outside ring? This will also help keep mud away right? Thanks!

 

[mrmo]

Yep, thats the split in the bushing for install, normally LIGHTLY lubricate the inside

 

[Hootbro]

Has anyone had this issue? Do you know the torque specs of the bolts

Torque spec is 46 foot pounds. Service instructions also say they are one time use bolts and a new fastener needs to be used.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Torque spec is 46 foot pounds. Service instructions also say they are one time use bolts and a new fastener needs to be used.

As I recall, are either the only, or almost the only, one time use bolts in the suspension.

I've never lubricated any rubber parts of any suspension I've repaired or restored. The rubber is meant to grip the bar, not slide on it.

POLY bushings must be lubed, rubber - I've never seen instructions to do so, and never have done so.
The vehicle should be on the ground, wheels on the ground, when those are put back together, like pretty much any other suspension part with a bushing.

 

[Commodus]

Should I put the lubricant on the insides of the bushing as well as the outside ring? This will also help keep mud away right? Thanks!

I use lubricant if it is squeaking and use a rubber preservative like maybe a spray on tire dressing or I use a product called Nextzett - Aktiv Autobalsam on all my rubber and plastics. Got it on Amazon

 

[Rusty PW]

Old trackday trick. Wrap the area on the bar where the bushing sits with one wrap of teflon thread tape. Gets rid of the squeak and lets the bar move more freely in the bushing.

 

[mrmo]

As I recall, are either the only, or almost the only, one time use bolts in the suspension.

I've never lubricated any rubber parts of any suspension I've repaired or restored. The rubber is meant to grip the bar, not slide on it.

POLY bushings must be lubed, rubber - I've never seen instructions to do so, and never have done so.
The vehicle should be on the ground, wheels on the ground, when those are put back together, like pretty much any other suspension part with a bushing.

That is true, I greased up the poly bushings on several installs, but a squeaking rubber will drive ya nuts, that why I said LIGHTLY lubricate, like barely put it on there. The clamp will put enough pressure on the bar/bushing to prevent free slip

 

[ShadowsPapa]

They are not supposed to be lubed in any way. Multiple reasons - one biggy is the rubber is supposed to grip the bar and keep it from moving laterally. lubricating them can cause the bar to side.
All experts, books, instructions and so on - no lube.

Another reason is that any lube that isn't purely dry will attract dirt and cause wear of both bushing and bar as it moves in the bushing.
The bushings are supposed to be dry.

I guess people worry that the bar can't rotate - that's GOOD. It's supposed to be gripped and held by the rubber. You change things up if you lube it.

From the web because, no one believes books, college texts, classroom training, the boss telling what not to do, factory training and so on -

I may have to go scan some of my books and instruction sheets from parts, I guess.

Only poly or the harder thermoplastic type replacements are to be lubed.
Standard factory rubber bushings, or the exact replacements - no, the rubber is to grip the bar snugly.
If the bushing gets older hardens from age or UV or heat, then it will make noise and not grip the bar tightly and that's when they need replaced, not greased.

There is zero reason to lube a good rubber bushing. I said a good one. If you feel the need to lubricate it, it's needing to be replaced.

The bushing is to grip that bar tightly and not let go. It then operates like the bushings in your control arms or track bar - twisting but not allowing any free turning.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Proper lubricant would be dielectric grease. Fill the f%@##@ up. Also good for control arm clevite bushings. Provides lubrication without petroleum degrading them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The trouble is "everybody is doin' it" so that makes it right, no matter how many facts are out there, the internet rules. The more forums where members say "lube it" the more it becomes a good thing.
Engineers, pro-racers, people who make the parts, tech journals, whatever, can all say one thing, but when 100 people pop in and say "yeah, I do it, it's fine" then it's ok.

 

[Hootbro]

These split bushings are not so bad to put on. That being said, I have had other applications were it comes down to fighting it for a couple of hours or a few minutes with lube.

 

[Commodus]

These views all have their place and I have not had one of these bushings off but if you look at the photo it looks like the bushing has a nylon webbing next to the bar. The only reason I see for this is to allow some slippage when the sway bar twists so I would not see a problem with lithium grease in a small amount

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