Clayton Offroad lift question

[Cobblecrazy]

I ordered a 2.5 overland lift kit from Clayton Offroad. I've watched some of the videos out there on installation, but only recently found one that was installed on a EcoDiesel. The video was posted by DirtLifestyle on YouTube. At approximately 12:28 in the video he starts talking about an issue with the bolt on a control arm on the front passenger side. He shows how the exhaust on the EcoDiesel prevents a bolt on the control arm from being removed because of some "super expensive emission" equipment. His solution was to cut the bolt then insert a new one the opposite way.

Although I find most of his videos well done an informative, I believe there has to be a better way of simply removing that bolt. I looked underneath and it there is a heat shield over the bolt that is removed by a couple of small bolts. It appears as if the main bolt would be close to the heat cover of the exhaust as it is backed out, but really not sure it would stop it from being taken out. There appears to be a few bolts holding the exhaust in place, and a little above the bolt on the exhaust there is a clamp so I'm not sure if you loosen/remove these to allow the exhaust to be slightly moved out of the way. I certainly don't want to do anything (i.e. remove/move something) that is going to cause issues down the road, but I cannot imagine that Jeep constructed the upper control arm location in a way that the bolt would have to be cut off to remove it.

Has anyone done an install of any lift where they replaced the front control arms and run into this issue. If so, what was the solution.

Thanks in advance.

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[Unkle Luk]

I have the Clayton 3.5 Overland Kit. That bolt was a pain to work out, but you can get it out without cutting anything, and then install it back in the opposite direction. Just takes a little patience and work it around the insulation on the exhaust.

 

[AXISJT]

I started a thread about this and it has a good amount of answers if you want to check it out.

 

[Aonarch]

I'd personally rather just cut it.

Save time and headache.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

That bolt has been covered in other threads here. He's probably right that is the easiest solution. That is not a Clayton issue. Cutting wheel or sawzall will be done with it in less than a minute.

The gas lifts also need a new bolts because the factory are too long, but there is no removal issues.

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

Is this issue only with the EcoDiesel? I have the 2.5” overland + kit. I did the rear already, it went very smooth, yet to tackle the front due to inclement weather - I’m wondering if I will run into this issue with the gasser….

 

[Cobblecrazy]

Is this issue only with the EcoDiesel? I have the 2.5” overland + kit. I did the rear already, it went very smooth, yet to tackle the front due to inclement weather - I’m wondering if I will run into this issue with the gasser….

This is a diesel gladiator issue. I spoke with the guys at Clayton, and a couple other YouTubers. All have said to cut the bolt (on the diesel) and put in a new bolt. Apparently the exhaust on the gas version is not in the way so no cutting involved.

 

[Aonarch]

This is a diesel gladiator issue. I spoke with the guys at Clayton, and a couple other YouTubers. All have said to cut the bolt (on the diesel) and put in a new bolt. Apparently the exhaust on the gas version is not in the way so no cutting involved.

Correct.

Lifting the gas truck is as easy as suspension work can get.

Use a ratchet strap on the axle to the frame to align track bars and control arms, plus a jack to change the axle angle if needed.

That is where people typical struggle in their driveway.

 

[JT4000]

Hi guys, I just came from the garage installing my Clayton 4.5/3.5 lift on my JTRD. Whole issue with that bolt is that the diesel exhaust is on the other side of the truck and much larger than the gas version. Cut the bolt. Sawsalled through it in seconds. If you don't you risk damaging the exhaust heat shield on the exhaust pipe.

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