Code P026D and split cold side CAC pipe

[krweatherl]

I have been seeing 22psi most of the time, but sometimes 23psi at elevation. I seem to remember seeing 25psi back in the day, but maybe I'm wrong on that? Can someone comment for sure?

I typically see 28-30 psi

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[CrazyCooter]

I typically see 28-30 psi

I appreciate that number for reference!

 

[Rusty PW]

I typically see 28-30 psi

I used to see those numbers.

 

[krweatherl]

I’m seeing a bunch of reports about these breaking/leaking, I’m at 33,000 , thinking I should get proactive about this and order the AFE Bladerunner kit.
We have a Fleet of 50 trucks at the rock products company I work for, the Mack Granites with the 465s regularly popped the flex hoses and broke clamps. The popped hoses would whistle loudly, the broke clamps would be a loud pop followed by no boost. Some of us drivers would carry a set of spare hoses and clamps, 5 minutes with a screwdriver and you were back on the road vs waiting for a service truck. Our Kenworth’s with C15 Cummins almost never have this problem.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Maybe I still have another leak that happens at higher pressures? I'll have to make some adapters/plugs and pressurize the system again with the smoke machine.

Hoping this isn't a combined issue with a turbo actuator failing!

 

[CrazyCooter]

So I've added some PIDs to the diag screen on OBD Fusion. Commanded VGT A Position, VGT turbo A Position, Commanded Boost Pressure A , and Boost Pressure A. So far everything is lining up within reason driving locally. Will be cool the check this while towing and under a sustained load.

The PID I'm using for a gauge is "Boost Psi" and again....21.9-22.1psi is what I'm seeing as the norm at my 500-700' elevation.

"Atmospheric pressure" is reading 14.4psi so that is consistent with my elevation.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Further testing this morning netted no leak that I could isolate at low pressure.

I plugged the exhaust pipe with a latex glove and put air/smoke into the turbo inlet pipe. Looks like a .025" leak which is pretty minute considering the exhaust system is included in this test?

There is definitely a leak at the fitting leaving the turbo to the hot side pipe indicated by the slight oil/dust collection under that fitting, but how much should be considered normal? I pulled the standoff bolt and wiggled the pipe, but was unable to see any smoke leaking. Possible its actually leaking at 20+ psi? The rubber hot side hose is definitely laying on the power steering pump and could be a future problem.....might have to get the hot side pipe next as preventive.....Only $654 retail for that pipe!

 

[rharr]

They all do that, mine is just like that.

 

[rharr]

might be an option
https://www.lazerlabcreations.com/eco-diesel/p/eco-diesel-turbo-outlet

The stupid spring clip design seems to be the issue, not sure why they could have just used a a hose clamp setup.

 

[Rusty PW]

might be an option
https://www.lazerlabcreations.com/eco-diesel/p/eco-diesel-turbo-outlet

The stupid spring clip design seems to be the issue, not sure why they could have just used a a hose clamp setup.

Gen2?

 

[CrazyCooter]

might be an option
https://www.lazerlabcreations.com/eco-diesel/p/eco-diesel-turbo-outlet

The stupid spring clip design seems to be the issue, not sure why they could have just used a a hose clamp setup.

The hose clamp fitting is leaking on mine as well. There's a stripe of oil on the heater hose under each connection.

 

[DylanM]

might be an option
https://www.lazerlabcreations.com/eco-diesel/p/eco-diesel-turbo-outlet

The stupid spring clip design seems to be the issue, not sure why they could have just used a a hose clamp setup.

The clip just keeps the hose from popping off, the actual sealing is provided by a rubber seal.

I'm sure if they used a hose clamp instead, then in typical fashion people would overtighten it and damage the hose or what it's attached to.

 

[rharr]

Gen2?

Yes i believe gen 2, but remember it was said you couldn't use a gen 2 intake, but some managed to fit a banks gen 2 aluminum intake on a gen 3. so i question how much different are they really.

The clip just keeps the hose from popping off, the actual sealing is provided by a rubber seal.

I'm sure if they used a hose clamp instead, then in typical fashion people would overtighten it and damage the hose or what it's attached to.

You are right but that is why a rolled bead is added to keep the hose from popping off so you aren't clamping it down with crazy torque.

The oem rubber seal seems susceptible to damage and leaking, i believe it's just some o-ring.

 

[Vtur]

Yes i believe gen 2, but remember it was said you couldn't use a gen 2 intake, but some managed to fit a banks gen 2 aluminum intake on a gen 3. so i question how much different are they really.



You are right but that is why a rolled bead is added to keep the hose from popping off so you aren't clamping it down with crazy torque.

The oem rubber seal seems susceptible to damage and leaking, i believe it's just some o-ring.

I agree. It's just an o-ring and will wear out from the fittings vibrating against each other. They used hose clamp and spring clips on the same coupler to avoid human error during assembly.

 

[DylanM]

You are right but that is why a rolled bead is added to keep the hose from popping off so you aren't clamping it down with crazy torque.

The oem rubber seal seems susceptible to damage and leaking, i believe it's just some o-ring.

I'm aware of the rolled bead and its purpose, but decades of experience has shown me that all too often people seem to think hose clamps absolutely need to be reefed down until the hose bulges, then add another turn or three. That's not to say I'm a fan of the stupid hose connector design we have, but the clip isn't the problem. Some of our fittings use o-rings, others use a single or double lipped seal. Good news is the seals are usually easy to replace and cost less than a hose which's been mangled by a hose clamp gorilla.

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