Complete Focal Component Speaker Install with Custom Sub Box Behind Seat

[ShawnL]

I was reading about it this morning. It would probably save me some time when it comes to running wires to one location and splicing though. Do you think it makes for an easier cleaner install? I have been meaning to ask you, when you installed your amp under the seat did you pull the wires up through/under the center console our out to the pillar?

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[Chocolyle]

Mine is behind the rear seats. I didn’t want mine under the seats in case water is a little too deep.

 

[DesertRated]

Removed the plastic interior trim along the door sills, passenger A pillar, and dropped the soundbar to get mine wired up. Also removed the passenger front seat to mount the amp.

 

[ShawnL]

Removed the plastic interior trim along the door sills, passenger A pillar, and dropped the soundbar to get mine wired up. Also removed the passenger front seat to mount the amp.

Thinking I will go the under seat route as well. Drivers side for me, passenger seat is the only one that changes locations in my truck.

 

[ShawnL]

To the original post-er: I think the word "masterpiece" is not an exaggeration here. A question for you: I see the large-gauge red 12+ wire that you brought back to the amp. Were you able to connect the amp's 12v- to some sufficiently substantial ground connection point that was already behind the rear seat? Reason I ask is that I am planning my own version of an install with a couple of amps behind the rear seat, and life will definitely be easier if I only need to snake a single large-gauge + wire back to the amps. Thanks!

Another alternate location is under the front seat( either side). There is an existing ground bolt there for accessories. I got turned on to the stinger mounting plate for this. $59

 

[ShawnL]

Here is a recommendation for power cable, real deal, not the cheap stuff sold on a lot of sites. It is the recommended size cable for the LC5.1300 too. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0-gauge-battery-cable-red-1-0-awg
Ground should match and you only need a few feet depending where you mount the amp.

I also bought this kit and crimper, makes installing the wire into the terminals much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082F25FMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you wired it up did you add an inline fuse in the engine compartment?

 

[Chocolyle]

When you wired it up did you add an inline fuse in the engine compartment?

Absolutely! Unless you want to chance your JT burning to the ground. Fuse should not not be any more than 12" from the battery terminal. I have had a few cars come in smoking because of no fuse inline or in the back of the vehicle. Note, the ground of most any car is the frame and all metal of the vehicle. If the positive cable jacket nicks at all and touches any metal, bad things start to happen.

Also, NEVER run power cables in between the door area or anywhere something could easily pinch the cable. Recommend through the firewall through a grommet. Fuses and CB's are not 100% reliable to blow when you need it too. The wire could be melting and starting a fire and not hit the threshold of the fuse or CB to blow. I have seen this servicing access control door strikes, wire in the door is pinched just enogh to melt the jacket but not pop the power supplies 10AMP fuse.


I prefer marine style circuit breakers, easier to disco power if you need to service the amp, push a button. You will need to have one that will be at least slightly higher than your amps draw at 12VDC. A lot of the CB's are listed for 12V and much higher voltage for DC. They are interchangeable, I.E. 48VDC should have it listing at 12VDC as well. Amazon is a good source too.

Hope this helps.

 

[ShawnL]

Absolutely! Unless you want to chance your JT burning to the ground. Fuse should not not be any more than 12" from the battery terminal. I have had a few cars come in smoking because of no fuse inline or in the back of the vehicle. Note, the ground of most any car is the frame and all metal of the vehicle. If the positive cable jacket nicks at all and touches any metal, bad things start to happen.

Also, NEVER run power cables in between the door area or anywhere something could easily pinch the cable. Recommend through the firewall through a grommet. Fuses and CB's are not 100% reliable to blow when you need it too. The wire could be melting and starting a fire and not hit the threshold of the fuse or CB to blow. I have seen this servicing access control door strikes, wire in the door is pinched just enogh to melt the jacket but not pop the power supplies 10AMP fuse.


I prefer marine style circuit breakers, easier to disco power if you need to service the amp, push a button. You will need to have one that will be at least slightly higher than your amps draw at 12VDC. A lot of the CB's are listed for 12V and much higher voltage for DC. They are interchangeable, I.E. 48VDC should have it listing at 12VDC as well. Amazon is a good source too.

Hope this helps.

Great info thank you so much! I bought a Blaupunkt kit for the 0 gauge it was fairly inexpensive. It came with an inline fuse but in watching a few install videos it seemed that nobody was using one. Better safe than sorry I guess. Thanks again!!

 

[ShawnL]

I have seen some photos on here of people screwing the inline fuse onto the top of the fuse box. What locations have you guys seen or used?

 

[sizmtrz]

Done for now…. Similar, only super budget with cheap speakers to start.

 

[ShawnL]

Absolutely! Unless you want to chance your JT burning to the ground. Fuse should not not be any more than 12" from the battery terminal. I have had a few cars come in smoking because of no fuse inline or in the back of the vehicle. Note, the ground of most any car is the frame and all metal of the vehicle. If the positive cable jacket nicks at all and touches any metal, bad things start to happen.

Also, NEVER run power cables in between the door area or anywhere something could easily pinch the cable. Recommend through the firewall through a grommet. Fuses and CB's are not 100% reliable to blow when you need it too. The wire could be melting and starting a fire and not hit the threshold of the fuse or CB to blow. I have seen this servicing access control door strikes, wire in the door is pinched just enogh to melt the jacket but not pop the power supplies 10AMP fuse.


I prefer marine style circuit breakers, easier to disco power if you need to service the amp, push a button. You will need to have one that will be at least slightly higher than your amps draw at 12VDC. A lot of the CB's are listed for 12V and much higher voltage for DC. They are interchangeable, I.E. 48VDC should have it listing at 12VDC as well. Amazon is a good source too.

Hope this helps.

Almost done with the install. My oem stereo didn’t have a sub. Where do I pull the signal to connect to the LC 5 1300 for the sub? Thanks your insights have been invaluable!!

 

[Chocolyle]

Almost done with the install. My oem stereo didn’t have a sub. Where do I pull the signal to connect to the LC 5 1300 for the sub? Thanks your insights have been invaluable!!

The amps built in crossover will do that for you. Audio Control has a pdf online for setup of 4 speaker level input with front/rear/sub output. It is in the KB under, I think, the LC6 model.

 

[ShawnL]

The amps built in crossover will do that for you. Audio Control has a pdf online for setup of 4 speaker level input with front/rear/sub output. It is in the KB under, I think, the LC6 model.

Thanks once again! I think i screwed myself though! Since I was going with all Focal product and saw that Focal had a slim Sub that I could just slide behind the rear seat and be done with it, I ordered it. Its currently in transit. I see that the 5th channel is 2 ohms, the Focal sub is 4 ohms. I happened to find it on clearance. So no returns! Damn!!!

 

[sizmtrz]

Thanks once again! I think i screwed myself though! Since I was going with all Focal product and saw that Focal had a slim Sub that I could just slide behind the rear seat and be done with it, I ordered it. Its currently in transit. I see that the 5th channel is 2 ohms, the Focal sub is 4 ohms. I happened to find it on clearance. So no returns! Damn!!!

If the focal is a dual 4ohm, wiring it in parallel will present a 2 ohm load on the amp so it will be perfect.

 

[Chocolyle]

4 ohm will work too, just half the power. Swap the driver down the road if it is not a dual voice coil, DVC

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