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Control Arm Torque Settings

RH 67

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For those that have installed their own lifts what torque settings are you using for the upper and lower control arms both front and rear? This is my first jeep with degree settings added to the torque settings and upon inspection it looks impossible to get an angular torque degree wheel on the control arm bolts so how is it possible to get the factory degree settings?
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RH 67

RH 67

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No one has installed their own lift?

Since an angular torque tool cannot be used on the control arm bolts does anyone know the torque values in foot pounds of angular degree and factory ft. lbs. combined as i believe this would give me the proper values for correct torque per factory.
 

Jolly’s Jp

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No one has installed their own lift?

Since an angular torque tool cannot be used on the control arm bolts does anyone know the torque values in foot pounds of angular degree and factory ft. lbs. combined as i believe this would give me the proper values for correct torque per factory.
RH 67,

I know that this doesn’t help too much for the rear, but here are the specs for the JL.

Jeep Gladiator Control Arm Torque Settings 1F5E93E9-8C14-43B2-8CD7-80A60DB5BAF4
 

MotoBrad

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That list is very helpful, thank you. I'm installing a simple Daystar level kit and they included instructions say "torque to factory specification", but couldn't be bothered to list the specs.

Only just unboxed the product and I'm already regretting having to wait for a big boy real lift kit from AEV or some other company eventually.
 

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RH 67

RH 67

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That list is very helpful, thank you. I'm installing a simple Daystar level kit and they included instructions say "torque to factory specification", but couldn't be bothered to list the specs.

Only just unboxed the product and I'm already regretting having to wait for a big boy real lift kit from AEV or some other company eventually.
Here is a list that includes the rear.

Jeep Gladiator Control Arm Torque Settings 83181746-7E98-4015-903C-D4F84474CBF5
 

Gmanjeeper

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Here is a list that includes the rear.

83181746-7E98-4015-903C-D4F84474CBF5.jpg
If I am reading this correctly, the fron frame lca is torqued to 190 and the rear to 185. I wonder why they are torqued differently (although the difference is relatively small).
 

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For those that have installed their own lifts what torque settings are you using for the upper and lower control arms both front and rear? This is my first jeep with degree settings added to the torque settings and upon inspection it looks impossible to get an angular torque degree wheel on the control arm bolts so how is it possible to get the factory degree settings?
I just used my trusty torque wrench that has a slight swivel at the end, and a socket. I was able to get to all the bolts/nuts with the torque wrench, ie. 185 for the big ones. After the installation, only tighten up the arms when the truck is on level ground resting on the new suspension. After torqueing, I marked all bolts/nuts with a pen paint marker, so, I could easily see any bolts that had loosened up. Up to now, after many 4wheeling trips, none of the bolts have moved and the suspension is quiet.
 

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A bump for this gem.
 

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I am generally a follow the book torque NAZI but torquing the arms on the ground is a bit of a bitch.

I just send it on my Milwaukee impact on nuclear setting with 2-3 "ugga - duggas". The front upper control arms with the smaller bolts, one step down from nuclear with the same 2-3 "ugga - duggas".

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I am generally a follow the book torque NAZI but torquing the arms on the ground is a bit of a bitch.

I just send it on my Milwaukee impact on nuclear setting with 2-3 "ugga - duggas". The front upper control arms with the smaller bolts, one step down from nuclear with the same 2-3 "ugga - duggas".

Subscribe to my newsletter on bad advice but advice you will want to do anyways.
The milwaukee torque wrench I have gets really pretty close to the same torque the factory specs lay out.
I did some experimenting and it's quite close.
The LCA isn't hard at all on the ground. It's the uppers that are tough, IMO.
You can get the lowers, especially the frame to LCA bolt, very easily from beside the truck.
You don't even have to be under the truck for the lowers.

Depending on the front bumper, the axle to LCA bolts aren't too bad.
 

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upon inspection it looks impossible to get an angular torque degree wheel on the control arm bolts so how is it possible to get the factory degree settings?
This is in response to a really old thread but my backyard mechanic method is:
  1. Torque it to the spec given in the torque+angle spec
  2. Mark a straight radial line (center to edge) on the bolt or nut (whichever is being torqued) with a sharpie. I make my line vertical so it is easy to eyeball the angle.
  3. Use an impact wrench to get it to the angle. Hit it with the impact, take it off and eyeball the angle, repeat until it looks about right. A little at a time. Keep a wrench on the other side (and maybe mark that side, too) to make sure it doesn't turn when using the impact.
My opinion is that it does not need to be all that exact. Angles like 90, 145, 180 are really easy to eyeball. Angles like 95 or 185 are basically 90 or 180 plus a teeny bit more (or not).
 

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"ugga - duggas", that made me smile. I have Dewalt tools, which requires one more ugga-dugga then the Milwaukee.
 

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I am generally a follow the book torque NAZI but torquing the arms on the ground is a bit of a bitch.

I just send it on my Milwaukee impact on nuclear setting with 2-3 "ugga - duggas". The front upper control arms with the smaller bolts, one step down from nuclear with the same 2-3 "ugga - duggas".

Subscribe to my newsletter on bad advice but advice you will want to do anyways.
That's what I did with front and rear LCAs........let my Milwaukee M18 1/2 impact give it the ugga duggas while on the ground and shits g2g. Every I didn't give the ugga duggas to loosened up over time........ valuable lesson learned. Fuck the torques,...........in Ugga Duggas We Trust
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