Dana 60s for 40 inch tires questions

[Bullycon]

Here is mine, 3.5 inch lift stealth fenders 17 inch slabs 1 ton steering 40x13.50 and 4.88 gears, daily driven and rides perfect with this set up. Under 2K at 75mph.

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[jjmstang]

How does your Patagonia's ride ? I have the same and they ride like crap. 2 on the back are out of round by 3/16" and the fronts are out by 1/16" and 1/8".

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Here is mine, 3.5 inch lift stealth fenders 17 inch slabs 1 ton steering 40x13.50 and 4.88 gears, daily driven and rides perfect with this set up. Under 2K at 75mph.

Can it hold gear when cruising at 75mph and under 2k RPM?

Seems like you're lugging.

 

[Bullycon]

Can it hold gear when cruising at 75mph and under 2k RPM?

Seems like you're lugging.

That’s on 8th gear coasting

 

[Bullycon]

How does your Patagonia's ride ? I have the same and they ride like crap. 2 on the back are out of round by 3/16" and the fronts are out by 1/16" and 1/8".

It rides good on mine thankfully no complaints so far.

 

[TRAILJT]

I want to run 40s on the Gladiator. Admittedly mostly for cosmetics but I would like to transition to more off road driving too.

Some questions:
Do I have to run Dana 60s on front and rear if I'm going to run 40s? Understand the wear on Dana 44s might be a bit much so upgrading is needed at least at some point.

If I stay on road for the majority of my driving is upgrading required to Dana 60s?

What regear is recommended?

Is it reasonable to assume I could drive the truck and upgrade over time if needed? Again, if I stay primarily on road at least until I would upgrade?

Also, this would be for a Rubicon automatic.

Very much appreciate the expertise available on this forum.

Hello here is my input with my experience. I have had 40s on my JTR since February of last year. I have wheeled my truck pretty hard too. rock crawling, snow runs and everything in between. The stock axles have surprisingly held up. I am running 4.88 gears that were originally for the 37"s i was running. 5.13 or 5.38 are probably a better choice for 40s or you will experience shuttle shifting. The problem with those ratios is that they get weaker the lower you go until you go to a bigger axles. I started getting very bad death wobbles with the factory axles. I am currently in the process of installing Ford 1 ton axles. The total amount I have spent on them is right around $13,700. This includes everything. new ring and pinions, air lockers, compressor setup, tank, trusses, re gear labor and even new bead lock wheels. Also included is steering knuckle parts, powder coating, steel diff covers, redneck hydro assist, and new front and rear drivelines. I completely rebuilt the axles replacing every seal, u joint and bearings. I have put all of the labor in myself other than the regear. Its a much cheaper and stronger option than purchased dana 60 axles but you have to have a little know how and not be afraid to get dirty. It has been quite the experience for me. Here are a few photos taken last weekend of my progress. So far it seems to be going pretty smooth. I home some of this helps you with your build. By the way anyone below saying Gladiators aren't for wheeling probably hasn't tried it. Sure there are some places its not made for but mostly depends on the driver.

 

[shrinkhead]

Hello here is my input with my experience. I have had 40s on my JTR since February of last year. I have wheeled my truck pretty hard too. rock crawling, snow runs and everything in between. The stock axles have surprisingly held up. I am running 4.88 gears that were originally for the 37"s i was running. 5.13 or 5.38 are probably a better choice for 40s or you will experience shuttle shifting. The problem with those ratios is that they get weaker the lower you go until you go to a bigger axles. I started getting very bad death wobbles with the factory axles. I am currently in the process of installing Ford 1 ton axles. The total amount I have spent on them is right around $13,700. This includes everything. new ring and pinions, air lockers, compressor setup, tank, trusses, re gear labor and even new bead lock wheels. Also included is steering knuckle parts, powder coating, steel diff covers, redneck hydro assist, and new front and rear drivelines. I completely rebuilt the axles replacing every seal, u joint and bearings. I have put all of the labor in myself other than the regear. Its a much cheaper and stronger option than purchased dana 60 axles but you have to have a little know how and not be afraid to get dirty. It has been quite the experience for me. Here are a few photos taken last weekend of my progress. So far it seems to be going pretty smooth. I home some of this helps you with your build. By the way anyone below saying Gladiators aren't for wheeling probably hasn't tried it. Sure there are some places its not made for but mostly depends on the driver.

That’s amazing !! Congrats on the build and looking forward to hearing your experience with those axles! Surprised you had death wobble and I am curious what lift your are running? I also agree 100% that the JT is a fantastic wheeling platform if you get it on at least 37s.

I am also still on stock axles and run 4.10s with 38s on the MOPAR 2-inch lift with a HEMI. The V8 handles the 4.10s and the 38s really well. My main hesitation going bigger would be MPGs actually…

 

[TRAILJT]

That’s amazing !! Congrats on the build and looking forward to hearing your experience with those axles! Surprised you had death wobble and I am curious what lift your are running? I also agree 100% that the JT is a fantastic wheeling platform if you get it on at least 37s.

I am also still on stock axles and run 4.10s with 38s on the MOPAR 2-inch lift with a HEMI. The V8 handles the 4.10s and the 38s really well. My main hesitation going bigger would be MPGs actually…

Thank you. At the moment i am running bastard lift. Rock Krawler 4-1/2" coils all the way around. Rock Krawler rear adj. lower arms with the Pro X triangulated adj. upper arms with no track bar. Front has Steer Smart track bar and icon upper and lower arms. They will soon be replaced with Rock Krawlers long arm conversion Kit.

 

[FLUndertaker]

Here is mine, 3.5 inch lift stealth fenders 17 inch slabs 1 ton steering 40x13.50 and 4.88 gears, daily driven and rides perfect with this set up. Under 2K at 75mph.

What axles are these?

 

[Dlish]

Hello here is my input with my experience. I have had 40s on my JTR since February of last year. I have wheeled my truck pretty hard too. rock crawling, snow runs and everything in between. The stock axles have surprisingly held up. I am running 4.88 gears that were originally for the 37"s i was running. 5.13 or 5.38 are probably a better choice for 40s or you will experience shuttle shifting. The problem with those ratios is that they get weaker the lower you go until you go to a bigger axles. I started getting very bad death wobbles with the factory axles. I am currently in the process of installing Ford 1 ton axles. The total amount I have spent on them is right around $13,700. This includes everything. new ring and pinions, air lockers, compressor setup, tank, trusses, re gear labor and even new bead lock wheels. Also included is steering knuckle parts, powder coating, steel diff covers, redneck hydro assist, and new front and rear drivelines. I completely rebuilt the axles replacing every seal, u joint and bearings. I have put all of the labor in myself other than the regear. Its a much cheaper and stronger option than purchased dana 60 axles but you have to have a little know how and not be afraid to get dirty. It has been quite the experience for me. Here are a few photos taken last weekend of my progress. So far it seems to be going pretty smooth. I home some of this helps you with your build. By the way anyone below saying Gladiators aren't for wheeling probably hasn't tried it. Sure there are some places its not made for but mostly depends on the driver.

@TRAILJT Any indications of what was causing the DW? How many miles on the stock axles and 40s? Were ball joints shot? etc?

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Thank you. At the moment i am running bastard lift. Rock Krawler 4-1/2" coils all the way around. Rock Krawler rear adj. lower arms with the Pro X triangulated adj. upper arms with no track bar. Front has Steer Smart track bar and icon upper and lower arms. They will soon be replaced with Rock Krawlers long arm conversion Kit.

Going bigger on the lift?

 

[Aonarch]

To put this into perspective, the ProRock 44 and other similar built 44s, are designed for 37s and 38s.

At the minimum you'd need a FAD delete, axle shafts, driveshafts, knuckles, u-joints, ball joints, and truss kits. Honestly at that point, just buy a ProRock44 or 60/60, 60/80.

I get flamed here for saying this, but 37s are as large as you should go on the stock axles. Even then you might break something at a really inopportune moment on the trail. So carry spares. The experts say 37s max on our stock axles. 35s on a Dana 44 are pretty bullet proof. Maybe just delete the FAD.

The Dynatrac ProRock 44™ for the 2018 and newer Jeep Wrangler JL and the 2019 and newer Jeep Gladiator JT has significantly stronger axle tubes and end forgings. This serious upgrade in strength and durability, along with the elimination of the Front-Axle Disconnect (FAD), provides JL and JT owners with the Confidence to Explore® and the ability to run tires up to 38-inches tall without fear.

 

[BRANHAND]

I've got 40's on my Rubicon and love it! Like yours, this truck will stay mostly on the road. I would imagine that serious trail riding would eventually force an axle upgrade, but so far, no complaints at all. The falcon steering stabilizer kit is also a good option with the bigger tires.

What grill guard are you running? Looks great!

 

[TRAILJT]

Going bigger on the lift?

No I had not planned on going bigger. I am installing RK long arm front as soon as it arrives. I don't really want to raise the C.G. I wheel the crap out of it and do not want to increase the chance of rollover.

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