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Dead Pedal Installation Help

Cattywumpuss

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So I got a dead pedal to rest my left foot on while driving and spent some time this morning up in the footwell trying to install it. It didn’t go smoothly and wasn’t an easy job not least because, well . . . . access to the footwell isn’t great if you aren’t a tiny contortionist.

I did manage to identity the correct bolt that the dead pedal needs to bolt on to. See pic below:

Jeep Gladiator Dead Pedal Installation Help IMG_0022


But then for some reason it’s surrounded by a plastic ‘collar’ thing that prevented me from getting to the nut. See picture below, with arrows:

Jeep Gladiator Dead Pedal Installation Help IMG_0019


So I wasn’t able to get to the nut in the end and couldn’t install the dead pedal. Is there some trick to it or do I just need a set of longer sockets to slide all the way down over the bolt?

(Also ended up debating with the wife on whether I added enough arrows to my pics, but that’s another topic.)
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Texbaz

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I agree with DylanM, a standard deep socket should work easily. I'd use 1/4 drive, the socket walls are thinner just an overall smaller profile. If you have trouble with the center of the socket inside hole accommodating the threaded part of the bollt just drill out the socket.
Or use a 3/8 it should be ok also.
Use as many extensions, to make it easy access.

Tip: if you are having a hard time accessing that space. disconnect the door so it can swing completely open, and scoot your chair as far aft as you can.

Just curious what dead pedal attaches to that bolt?
PS some green arrows would have complimented your red.
 
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Cattywumpuss

Cattywumpuss

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A deep well socket would work, or it looks like you should have no problem getting on that with an open or closed end wrench, or even a crescent should do the trick.
Thank you. I tried an open end wrench and a crescent without luck. The plastic surround is deeper than it looks in the picture. I’ll get a set of deep well sockets, as I’m sure I’ll get use out them down the road too.
 
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Cattywumpuss

Cattywumpuss

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I agree with DylanM, a standard deep socket should work easily. I'd use 1/4 drive, the socket walls are thinner just an overall smaller profile. If you have trouble with the center of the socket inside hole accommodating the threaded part of the bollt just drill out the socket.
Or use a 3/8 it should be ok also.
Use as many extensions, to make it easy access.

Tip: if you are having a hard time accessing that space. disconnect the door so it can swing completely open, and scoot your chair as far aft as you can.

Just curious what dead pedal attaches to that bolt?
PS some green arrows would have complimented your red.
Thank you, a set of deep well sockets are in my future I think. I figured disconnecting the door would help but as it was real cloudy and gloomy today with showers on and off, I didn’t try that.

I did scoot the drivers seat all the way back though but that didn’t give me much extra room.

This is the dead pedal I found to try. It seems fairly well built and was a reasonable price:

Jeep Gladiator Dead Pedal Installation Help IMG_9378


Green arrows would have gone great! Next time! 😂
 

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Gvsukids

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Mad Mac

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I have the M.O.R.E. dead pedal.
Mounts to and hangs from the side
instead of the floor and firewall.
Also requires a contortionist midget
for installation.
It was available in Rubicon Red.
Read about it here if you do not have a life.
 

MPMB

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Check your inbox.
I have the M.O.R.E. dead pedal.
Mounts to and hangs from the side
instead of the floor and firewall.
Also requires a contortionist midget
for installation.
It was available in Rubicon Red.
Read about it here if you do not have a life.
EXCUSE ME, but we do not use that word here. The correct term is "hypermobility." A midget with hypermobility.

Way too many insensitive late ignition timing people in here.

:LOL:

But, yes, the consensus is that firewall bolt is a PITA. And dead pedals that have the break on the side are the ones to get. I have an early one I haven't replaced yet that's flat and it's been bent a few times.
 

MrBones

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Had a similar issue on my '23 JTM. I gave up trying to remove the nut. I just found the right size nut and bolted the pedal on the remaining threads. No problems in the last two years.
 

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Cattywumpuss

Cattywumpuss

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CHEAT ! I found there were enough threads exposed to just run the nut down on the bolt that stuck out. I do recomend a little thread locker on the nut.
I actually wondered about that. So much bolt sticking out just find a nut that fits and mount it ‘above’ the existing nut.
 
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Cattywumpuss

Cattywumpuss

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Had a similar issue on my '23 JTM. I gave up trying to remove the nut. I just found the right size nut and bolted the pedal on the remaining threads. No problems in the last two years.
Ok, good to know! Thank you!
 

Mad Mac

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EXCUSE ME, but we do not use that word here. The correct term is "hypermobility." A midget with hypermobility.

Way too many insensitive late ignition timing people in here.

:LOL:
I thought my insensitivity
concerned using the term midget
which is widely considered
a derogatory slur.
Perhaps I should have said
a person with proportionate dwarfism
and hypermobility.

Frankly, the world would probably be
a better place if all of us
were "precision sized".
Or as my four foot eleven daughter says
"fun sized".
 
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Cattywumpuss

Cattywumpuss

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I have the M.O.R.E. dead pedal.
Mounts to and hangs from the side
instead of the floor and firewall.
Also requires a contortionist midget
for installation.
It was available in Rubicon Red.
Read about it here if you do not have a life.
Thanks for the link. I don’t have a life and did go read it. It looks nice once you got it in there. I’m hoping it makes a bit of a difference once I get mine in. I’m 6’2 with back issues so having my leg comfortably stretched out at times would be a wonderful relief.
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