Debating on a new Gladiator and have some questions

[BA33]

Your 2 cents is frankly wild to me as we seem to disagree on almost every major point. I love my mojave, but it was a function of what was needed, not what I wanted. If i didn't have a family, i'd have a softtop willys sport manual with tow and aux for an MSRP of 41,400. My passive entry would be never locking the doors because i'd never have anything valuable inside and I wouldn't want my softtop slashed

Exactly what I got (Willys Sport-aux, m/t, tow, and bed liner). Love it!

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[BA33]

Honestly, a Sport S Max Tow sounds like the right set up for your needs. Keep in mind that lifts, larger tires, etc will impact tow capacity, ride, etc. You're wrapping your head around the form vs function debate. Weigh the pros and cons. No matter what you end up choosing, you'll end up with a capable, versatile vehicle that you will love.

Side note, and this may just be me, but different colors look better on different trims, imo.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

If you're just planning on overland type off roading, don't over think the lockers and disconnects. With an LSD model you'll be surprised what you can do. Good tires and a nice lift will go a long way. You really need to question if you will NEED those features or not. It's not a matter of rubi vs trying to make a sport as capable as a rubi. It comes down to really looking at whether or not that large premium will actually give you a real benefit or not for your given use.

That and “the Rubicon has all I need” position (I said the same thing ~4 months ago and I have new wheels in the bed waiting to be mounted ? ) isn’t accounting for the fact that a LOT of folks end up upgrading and removing stock JTR parts.

Search Facebook Marketpace. Half of the “Gladiator” returns in my area are OEM Rubicon take-offs.

A tinkerer is a tinkerer. If you were going to find a reason to modify the Sport or Overland, you’ll probably find a reason to modify the Rubicon or Mojave.

 

[Jefe1018]

LOL, not a fantasy, just a statement of fact, things get more expensive when you have other people's needs and opinions in the mix. For me alone I'm willing to make concessions like rollie windows to never have to disconnect another door harness again (i already push in my doorstops and leave my hinge retention pins off). My wife if less willing to make such concessions. And for future planning, having multiple kids with manual locks is just something I have no interest in.

Haha I was hoping I wasn’t the only one… jk

I just can’t justify the cost of a stripped down model. I think it’s Jeep’s way of pushing the high end models. Why does a vehicle cost over $30,000 without power anything? The bean counter in my head just can’t justify it.

 

[onewhippedpuppy]

Thanks for this perspective. It sounds like, from what I’ve read on a lot of posts, my focus should be more along the lines of Mojave or sport s/Willy’s. The local shops in Yonkers Said to lift a sport/Willy/overland to have the fox shocks and lift to look like a Mojave/rubi is around $2300 for parts and labor.

I’m curious what kind of deals can be had and since I’m in no rush, I’m willing to wait to find out. Rhineback NY has a sh*t ton of gladiators, rockland has like 19, local has 12. Curious to see how they’re able to sell going into fall with 2023 coming out

If you want to tinker with the Mojave you can still add a spacer lift from a company like AEV, they are less expensive than a full on new suspension and will give you another 2”. You can also fit a 35” tire on stock suspension and a 37” easily with the 2” lift. So there’s still room to go bigger (if desired) without trashing the excellent stock Mojave suspension. Just food for thought.

Also as already mentioned on this thread, don’t be afraid to travel for a deal. I drove about 5 hours to a dealer in rural MO in April 2021 and got about 10% off of MSRP on mine. Granted it was a manual transmission which may sell slower, but the deals are out there.

 

[dcmdon]

I may not have explained my thinking properly then. I'm coming from a 1st Gen Tacoma and honestly, I was ready to buy a new one until I started considering the other mid-size trucks out there. I towed regularly with my Taco, too.

Understanding that the Mojave's tow capacity in V6 form is 6k, Rubicon is 7K, and Max tow Sport is 7650...

In order to be safer while towing a camper I'm limiting myself to tandem axles only and will absolutely use a weight distribution hitch. That puts me firmly in the 5K weight range. If I use the rule of only pulling 75-80% of my capacity, I'm well below that on a Max Tow Sport and Rubicon and just at the line on the Mojave. I'd rather have the Max Tow ability and not use it than not. Regardless of which one I eventually settle on I'll be installing airbags in the rear, too.

Furthermore, one of my plans is to eventually use it to haul my e46 to and from the track a couple times a year. That's 3500 for the car (assuming I don't add lightness) and around 16-1700 for a lightweight aluminum trailer like a Timpte tilt load. Total is still just over 5k.

The other thing that concerns me is the reviews I've read about the Mojave and towing are not good given the softer suspension. I haven't seen it on here yet but has anyone corrected that problem?

You should get the truck you want. The SAE tow test has a bunch of factors. One truck may reach its limit because it gets squirrely. Another may reach its limit because the acceleration falls below acceptable limits. Another may reach its limit because its engine or transmission cooling is maxed out.

I'm guessing you know this, but I'm writing it to hi light that every version of the Gladiator is essentially the same truck.

If you look at the differences between the Max Tow and a Mojave it really comes down to a slightly lighter curb weight and stiffer springs for the Max Tow.

If you wanted to write the check, you could take a Mojave, put airbags in the back and have the SAE test it.

The reality is that they will tow fundamentally the same. Same engine, transmission, chassis, cooling, mass, etc.

Get the truck you want to drive 99% of the time and not the truck that will tow marginally better the 1% of the time you are towing heavy.

With a WDH, a tandem trailer loaded with 15% tongue weight and just driving around town I'd tow 10,000 lbs in a Gladiator. And it would be safe.

With a non WDH, a single axle trailer 10% tongue weight and a trip up the rockies in July on I80, you might be pushing it with 5000 lbs.

Back when I was young (and stupid) I towed around a 30 foot Formula Go-Fast boat with a friend for a few summers. He had a 1/2 ton Chevy van loaded down with at least 1000 lbs of carpentry tools. We towed his 10,000 lb boat and trailer combo around safely. The van was rated at 3500 lb tow.

It was safe because we drove it 5 miles from his home to a ramp. Speeds never exceeded 35 mph and grades were zero except of the ramp.

At one point my parents invited him to their cottage in RI. He decided to bring the boat and spent an hour on I95. The ride was terror. The boat was moving the van around like crazy. Completely unsafe and stupid.

Same truck. Same load. Different environment. Different results.


Putting bags in a Mojave, Overland or Rubicon can most likely give you a tow package that is better than a Max Tow. (Can you get 4.11 gears in an Overland??)

These numbers aren't hard limits. Its not like the truck will tow perfectly up to the limit and then suddenly fall apart when you go over.

Like I said above, a bunch of conditions determine the REAL limit. temp, grade, speed, WDH or not, weight distribution of the trailer, single or dual axle.

Furthermore, one of my plans is to eventually use it to haul my e46 to and from the track a couple times a year. That's 3500 for the car (assuming I don't add lightness) and around 16-1700 for a lightweight aluminum trailer like a Timpte tilt load. Total is still just over 5k.

The other thing that concerns me is the reviews I've read about the Mojave and towing are not good given the softer suspension. I haven't seen it on here yet but has anyone corrected that problem?

Ha, thanks for the Colin Chapman quote.

Re towing your car. My dad used to tow his 240Z race car on an Aluminum trailer to Thompson and Lime Rock on a regular basis with his Volvo Wagon. He lived in CT and it was no issue.

Then he joined a group that held races at the Glen and Summit Point as well as a couple of other places that required a 4-8 hour drive. Once he started doing that, the Volvo became unacceptable. Too much "tail wagging the dog" for such a long trip. It was exhausting.

He got a Ridgeline and it works for him.

So again, the question comes down to: How far will you be towing the car? Is it an easy tow? Or will you be going over the Rockies in July?

 

[Akgladiator]

Honestly, a Sport S Max Tow sounds like the right set up for your needs. Keep in mind that lifts, larger tires, etc will impact tow capacity, ride, etc. You're wrapping your head around the form vs function debate. Weigh the pros and cons. No matter what you end up choosing, you'll end up with a capable, versatile vehicle that you will love.

Side note, and this may just be me, but different colors look better on different trims, imo.

Sport s max tow is over rated. U might as well go with diesel for few grand more! No substitution for torque!

 

[BourbonRunner]

You should get the truck you want. The SAE tow test has a bunch of factors. One truck may reach its limit because it gets squirrely. Another may reach its limit because the acceleration falls below acceptable limits. Another may reach its limit because its engine or transmission cooling is maxed out.

SNIP

Putting bags in a Mojave, Overland or Rubicon can most likely give you a tow package that is better than a Max Tow. (Can you get 4.11 gears in an Overland??)

These numbers aren't hard limits. Its not like the truck will tow perfectly up to the limit and then suddenly fall apart when you go over.

Like I said above, a bunch of conditions determine the REAL limit. temp, grade, speed, WDH or not, weight distribution of the trailer, single or dual axle.

My primary concern is liability. As litigious as people are, you get into an accident with an overloaded vehicle, the next thing you know your insurance is calling an audible.

If I bought a boat, I'm 15-30 minutes from a ramp into the Chesapeake, 2.5-3 hours from the Atlantic coast, and 3 hours from the lake, with Maryland mountains (not exactly the Rockies in July) to cover to get to the lake.

If I get a camper, that thing is going cross country, sort of the point. We're kicking around in 2 years doing a 2-3 week XC and bagging national parks along the way with some mild overlanding in between.

Summit Point is a little over an hour from my home for track days, and VIR is about 5.5.

Candidly, the race days are more realistic than the camper/boat at this point.

Ha, thanks for the Colin Chapman quote.

Glad you picked up on that!!

Re towing your car. My dad used to tow his 240Z race car on an Aluminum trailer to Thompson and Lime Rock on a regular basis with his Volvo Wagon. He lived in CT and it was no issue.

Then he joined a group that held races at the Glen and Summit Point as well as a couple of other places that required a 4-8 hour drive. Once he started doing that, the Volvo became unacceptable. Too much "tail wagging the dog" for such a long trip. It was exhausting.

He got a Ridgeline and it works for him.

So again, the question comes down to: How far will you be towing the car? Is it an easy tow? Or will you be going over the Rockies in July?

I don't think that I'd be doing much more than the once-per-year run to VIR. There is a good possibility I could haul it up to CT and hit Lime Rock with a good friend that lives up there and haunts the track when his e46 and 996 are not in the shop.


Thank you for being so thorough. This is one of the reasons why this forum community is so great compared to so much BS out there.

 

[shokker70]

Re towing your car. My dad used to tow his 240Z race car

Completely off topic, but 240Z!! I had one of those. And a 260. Absolutely loved those cars. Could break the back tires loose going into 3rd completely stock. Don't see too many of those around anymore. Love to have another one!

 

[BA33]

Sport s max tow is over rated. U might as well go with diesel for few grand more! No substitution for torque!

No argument here, but he specifically said he wanted a gasser. Max Tow seemed logical since his towing needs are beginning on the high side of things and we all know how tow and payload #s can creep up pretty easily.

 

[John in the Woods]

I'm with you and the consensus here. No need to jump into Rubicon or Mojave out of the gate (unless you find a killer deal). Start simple, and build up as you learn what you need. That Willys sounds like a smart start, and I would get a few trips under your belt before you dive into any pseudo-Mojave upgrades. You might find, like a lot of folks here, that the rig out of the box gives you all you need.

Then, spend that money on cool gear and great trips!

 

[glassjawkid32]

That and “the Rubicon has all I need” position (I said the same thing ~4 months ago and I have new wheels in the bed waiting to be mounted ? ) isn’t accounting for the fact that a LOT of folks end up upgrading and removing stock JTR parts.

Search Facebook Marketpace. Half of the “Gladiator” returns in my area are OEM Rubicon take-offs.

A tinkerer is a tinkerer. If you were going to find a reason to modify the Sport or Overland, you’ll probably find a reason to modify the Rubicon or Mojave.

Very true. I'm personally happy with moderate trails and don't invision a lot of ture lifting in my future so I don't regret going with the lsd model at all. It's been very good to me so far.

 

[Minty JL]

A lot of great comments and advice in here. Just remember the topic is very subjective. Just be honest with yourself and buy based on your needs first, then wants/desires.

 

[dcmdon]

Completely off topic, but 240Z!! I had one of those. And a 260. Absolutely loved those cars. Could break the back tires loose going into 3rd completely stock. Don't see too many of those around anymore. Love to have another one!

It may be a 260 actually. I dont' think there is much of a difference.

Its currently set up with 3 - 2 barrel side draft Webbers and makes 220 hp at something like 8000 rpm on a chassis dyno. Its well under 2000 lbs so it scoots along pretty well.

 

[dcmdon]

My primary concern is liability. As litigious as people are, you get into an accident with an overloaded vehicle, the next thing you know your insurance is calling an audible.

If I bought a boat, I'm 15-30 minutes from a ramp into the Chesapeake, 2.5-3 hours from the Atlantic coast, and 3 hours from the lake, with Maryland mountains (not exactly the Rockies in July) to cover to get to the lake.

If I get a camper, that thing is going cross country, sort of the point. We're kicking around in 2 years doing a 2-3 week XC and bagging national parks along the way with some mild overlanding in between.

Summit Point is a little over an hour from my home for track days, and VIR is about 5.5.

Candidly, the race days are more realistic than the camper/boat at this point.





Glad you picked up on that!!



I don't think that I'd be doing much more than the once-per-year run to VIR. There is a good possibility I could haul it up to CT and hit Lime Rock with a good friend that lives up there and haunts the track when his e46 and 996 are not in the shop.

Thank you for being so thorough. This is one of the reasons why this forum community is so great compared to so much BS out there.

I think the liability thing is overblown. When people started talking about tow rating and liability on this forum a lot, I offered $100 to the charity of their choice to anyone who could find an example of someone in hot legal water for towing over their vehicle's rated limit who was not in any other way driving recklessly.

Nothing. I've still got the $100.

Just out of curiosity I asked my insurance agent about this. he told me I was covered period. PERIOD. Even if I got drunk and drove recklessly, my insurance will indemnify me.

I also carry a $2mil umbrella but you shouldn't need that.

Bottom line - get the truck you want to drive 99% of the time and put air bags in for the other 1%.

I was on a fire road today and was RIPPING it at 50+ mph in my Mojave. I wouldn't trade the for the world.

Finally, if you do track days and understand the value of a SORTED suspension, out of the box, then you will appreciate the Mojave.

All the other Gladiator models strike me as oversprung and underdamped. The Mojave feels sorted. Its certainly nothing you could not do to a Sport with a new set of (ideally adjustable) shocks. But th3en again without softer springs, you may then just have a hard riding truck.

I'm happy with my choice. Others are happy with their choices.

One other thing. Go for a test drive. I had to drive an hour to test drive a Mojave. But I'm glad I did.

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