Destination Unknown - 2022 JTR journal

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Another task was to relocate the bed battery. It previously sat in front of where the compressor now is mounted.

But, I wanted to free up that space for another item, as well as offer a mounting location for 2 batteries. This was the initial plan in removing the Genesis under hood dual battery tray. Previously the fuse was located on the exterior of the box (pictured above), but with this relocation, I wanted to place the fuse inside the box to reduce the amount of exposed wire. After all, if these fuses blow, there is a bigger problem to explore. They are fused at 125 amps, while the main fuse under the hood going to this system is set to 100. 100 amps is under-fusing the system for the amount of wire run, but based on my calculations I will rarely reach a 80 amp draw at any given moment, and if so, will be for short bursts. The intent here was to ensure the under hood fuse would blow first as it is easier to access. The only reason it should blow is if I forget to open the circuit when doing a winch pull - but of course recalling the G-screen system, the battery combiner can be placed in an open status from inside the cab. All flawless operation. The foam inside the box is used just to prevent any moving around despite being strapped in.

So, drivers side up agains the bulkhead it goes. This really is the best location considering it is hard to access due to the shelf and recovery gear just a few inches above. It also will help with better weight distribution. I used the same wire loom I have been for consistency, but this time added some of the old school 4 letter word inducing plastic stuff for extra abrasion resistance considering these wires can transfer some serious oomph.

I ran some more 4ga wire with Anderson connectors to make removal easy and to offer modular abilities. I am still waiting on some 4ga cable for the second battery, but the solar charging cables are also in place. This will offer me a total of 230 ah capacity, retaining AGM batteries conducive for rough roads and winter use. It will allow for 161 usable amp hours, with a max of 184, to allow for a 10% buffer, before any battery damage occurs. Weight of course is a big downfall, at 75 pounds each - but in cold climates there really is not another option for a permanent on board battery setup.

I would also point out that I made a bracket for the batteries to sit on to further aid in preventing movement. In the photo above, you can barely make out the edge of the wood partially covered by green 550 cord. This extends just past the plastic handle lip - and is designed this way on purpose.

The purpose, is so that the kitchen storage system can but up directly against this bracket and not put pressure on the plastic battery boxes. So, now would be a good time to show the test fit of the system some time ago after building the kitchen storage box. It is perfectly sized as well, by design, so that a 30qt Engle cooler can fit in front of it flush against the tailgate when closed and in transport. I found the previously used 15qt Engle cooler too small for reasonable dry food storage - it will be re-used in the TJ/LJ.

So far I am quite pleased on how this is turning out.

Nice work! Looks great

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[chorky]

Another task completed, after the main electrical revamp (still to be shown) is partial install and testing of the new solar setup.

This past summer, I had a single mobile 100a Zamp solar kit. I had never personally experienced solar before, but was skeptical because so many others I know who do have solar, have experienced less than desirable performance. So I opted for this portable option so it can be angled and faced toward the sun as the day progresses.
obsidian-series-100-watt-portable-kit-regulated
I have been absolutely blown away by the performance of this setup. I have seen countless times people with other systems experiencing less than desirable performance and needing to quadruple their solar panel amount in order to charge at the full capacity of one of their panels 'ratings'. I can say that this panel, in partial shade with dust/dirt/dew on it, in early morning/late evening light, still produces 80% of its capacity.

So I decided to purchase a second panel and hard mount them being assured they will be more than sufficient for my needs. With discounts and sales, I picked up a 'blemished' panel for around $150. Normally selling for around $500 each. These panels, unlike others, offer a lifetime functional warranty. Are hand made IN the USA, and offer superb technical assistance. They were even willing to discuss things with me that would void their warranty, and so long as I wired things correctly they would honor their warranty. Clearly well worth the cost in my opinion.

So, with the electrical (still to be shown) partially completed, and a sneak peak at some things, I set up the panels on the roof temporarily.

I opted to drill a single 3/4" hole in the roof of the canopy to run the wires through, and tuck them safely under the RTT while securing them to the tent itself. Being supposedly stainless steel, I am not overly concerned about the canopy rusting. Previous drilled holes have exibited zero rust thus far.

The proof is in the pudding. Each panel was producing nearly an amp. This was in late afternoon sun at about 35 degrees from the horizon, rain, and heavy overcast. I was expecting to see zero charge at all, yet, was still charging over an hour after this photo, with the sun just above the hills on the horizon.

I don't know any other panel (at least in my experiences) that can even charge anything in these conditions. Not to mention that in addition to an angle of 35 degrees from the horizon, the sun is at about 120 degrees from vehicle orientation - meaning the panel on the drivers side probably is only receiving 30% sun, being shaded by the tent and further angled away from the sun, and the passenger side panel probably receiving 45-50% sun by area. I am impressed.

 

[chorky]

I would be really curious to see if LiPo batteries with heating pads would be effective depending on how long they sit. Of course that’s inefficient and more expensive, but if it’s only overnight or something, it might be worth the overnight drain compared to the weight and capacity of using lead.?
Somebody would have to do a lot of real world testing.

I did a lot of research on this and have found out the self heating elements alone are not sufficient. One of the big factors here is I don't want to constantly load/unload the truck, especially the batteries. So in winter temps dipping to -30...only AGM will work. Not that I am camping in those temps, but I just dont want the work of unloading every time. In talking with some folks that build a lot of lithium setups for clients they have found that the self heated batteries still basically need to be inside of a box filled with insulation to function ok in temps below 25. But then, you run into the problem of overheating in the summer, so would need to remove them from said insulated box. So...that's just too much work for what I want. The other aspect is I wanted a AGM specifically so it could tie directly into the main battery via a battery combiner. Thus not needing another 1500 bucks for a DC/DC charger - plus giving the ability to run all of my bed system stuff off of the main starting battery in the event I do need to remove the bed batteries, since it is all tied together via the 4ga cable and battery combiner. Lastly, I wanted to have the option to be able to self jump-start if the main vehicle battery died or had a critical failure. You really can't do all of that with lithium. And, in the end it is cheaper as well.

In the future, if lithium tech continues to expand I definitely would love to take advantage of shaving 2/3's of the weight of the AGM's. But for now the tech just doesn't work for my location and needs.

Now if I did just overnight trips, then yeah lithium would work fine probably. However, they do have issues with power draw once temps drop into the teens. I might opt for that in the TJ and LJ we will see. But I do a combination of overnight trips with 2-3 trips up to 8 days per trip each summer.

Curious what vibration from the air compressor will do to the ABS. Probably nothing but I'd be checking it periodically, especially after heavy use for stress fractures. But if it ever needs replacing, looks like it'll be very easy. Good work as always!

Me as well. I hesitated on using it as my initial plan was Alum just for that reason. But I think it will be ok. The panels I cut are small enough that they are pretty darn stiff and there are plenty of bolts to secure it to the 813 Molle. But only time will tell. I ultimately decided on using the ABS because I had it, and didn't want to wait or spend the 80 bucks for aluminum from 80/20 even though it is good quality stuff.

 

[chorky]

The most exciting news about this whole revamp, to me, was the electrical system. There is another big change to be explored later.

From day one, the electrical distribution system worked, but it was not as clean and easy as I liked. I knew it right away that it would be requiring changes in the future. So here we are. First in order was to remove the old system and compressor as previously discussed.

And here you can see the layout of the carriage bolts used as studs like discussed above.

I used washers and lock nuts here so that the carriage bolt wouldn't inadvertently come loose if I removed the panel, which is also held in place by more washers and lock nuts. This also provided for a stand-off needed to secure items to the plate.

It was time to start playing around with layout ideas, and this is what I landed on. I did need some extra space for a few more items due to permanent mounting of the solar panels once the cross bars arrive. I like this layout as it offers good separation between the positive and negative terminal blocks, keeps the switch pros system central, and offers the positive block to be closer to the battery selection switch - although inadvertently that requires longer wire. But at this point my wire run is so darn long another few inches doesn't matter. It is much improved over the previous version.

The intent above also was to have those angle brackets to attach sides to. Later on I realized it was too constraining so they were removed. The plastic is 1/4" ABS found on amazon for pretty cheap. Now that I know 8020 also offers plastic, I would have opted for them instead as they will cut to size - although significantly more expensive as well. Installed, for a test fit, it is looking great!

I won't go into depth of the wiring as it is much the same. 4 ga wire coming from the battery combiner under the hood fused at 100 amps (about 22' long I think). The main block here has 3 fuses, one for the ARB compressor fused at 60 amps, one for battery tenders/chargers fused at 30 amps, one main power feed to the switch pros's at 60 amps, and 3 NEW fuses, all 30 amps, for solar input, and solar charger output to each bed battery (2 of them) as the controller can charge each battery separately - currently set to 50% / 50% for equal charging. Also pictured is the previously used 40a relay which is used to turn off power to the SAE plug so somebody can't 'steel' or short out my system when I am not around. It was used last summer as the input for the solar panel, now I'm not sure what it will be used for, but since the port is a permanent fixture on the canopy, I wanted to retain the wires and functionality even though I probably won't ever use it anymore.

I am very happy with this layout compared to the last. I still have a few more things to finish wiring back up and wire management and cleanup to do, but all the wires will be zip-tied out of the way and it will be a very clean appearance that is relatively easy to tear apart if something ever requires replacement or maintenance. All the fuses are easy to see from the same location as well, and easy to access. The main power is well protected now too as I used some boots even though it has a cover.

 

[chorky]

Now comes the fun part. Due to some additional changes with the overall location of the switches, I opted to relocate them. I also took this opportunity to use some different activation switches.

The overall idea would be this. A main power switch that is always on standby. When activated it trips the SwitchPros system to be functional. It also will trip and turn on backlighting for activation of the battery voltage gauges. Though the Zamp charge controller does have a readout, I still wanted battery specific gauges. Now for selecting a location, I needed something that would work with the new kitchen design. I have realized over the last year that having the switches to the side of the fridge location was cumbersome when the fridge was slid out all the way. So the next logical location was overhead. But how? Well, for now, until I decided on this being the final location For now used wood. I also grabbed some simple shelf brackets, bent them to the desired angle, angle and bolted them to the canopy. Crazy enough, it turns out that the slots on the inside of the canopy built in retaining system are the same 1/4 inch as the 813 Molle panels. So I just used more of the carriage bolts.
_

I honestly don't really care for the wood, but I do intend to replace it in the future with aluminum. In standby mode, the only power draw is the red LED shown above and below. I opted to use OTRATTW custom engraved switches (https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-IV-14/) and Carling Contura XIV series rockers. I really like these as they have a sleek look but don't look overly smooth. I think the series V are just too much.

Now I used a non-typical method for the switches themselves. Instead of the standard on/off lower independent switch that most people have, I wanted a different operation. Since, to me, lights are primarily used at night, I wanted to make their function more realistic. It is easy to see things during the day, not so much at night. So instead I used a UPPPER independent on/off switch, with the upper independent light red, and the lower dependent (when on) light green. This way, red would indicate power but not on (standby) and 'green' would indicate the item being on, as most would associate. To do this though I also had to flip the switch to be backwards from the norm. So, referencing the photo above, everything is off. To activate the system, you would push the lightning bolt, being as it is lit and easiest to see. This is the 'on' position which in turn illuminates the "SYSTEM POWER" to be green, and also activate the SwitchPros. In addition, it sends power to the 'standby mode' (red) LED's of the battery volt meters so they then illuminate.

Now, any button of the SwitchPros can be pressed to turn the items on and off, illuminating the orange 'on' led just above the corresponding switch. With the exception for the cargo lights which can operate even with the system disabled by programming. Now you can also notice that the "VOLTAGE TEST" switches operate almost the same way. When you press the "VOLTAGE TEST" as one would naturally think to do, it closes the switch allowing power to flow through the voltmeter and also illuminating the "BATTERY 1" or BATTERY 2" green LED indicating it is powered and 'on'. To turn off any of these, or the whole system, you would then push the "SYSTEM POWER" green button as if you wanted to cover it and turn it off, shutting down the system. One exception though is the voltmeters. They are always activated and allowed to function. Only the RED LED is being controlled by the main power switch. This is because, again, during the day when you can see everything there is no need to see where the switch is to push it.

I am quite happy with this setup. I think it looks and functions very well. The reason I went with this unconventional switch/light method is because I have the Contura V switches in my TJ, and I can say that when it is dark and the switch is off, it is quite difficult to locate the switch and identify what specific switch you are pushing until it is already on. This way it is much easier to identify prior to touching the switch, and then indicating when it is activated.

 

[chorky]

One more update for now is the second most exciting update. This is also a very significant update in terms of functionality, ease, and speed. I have mentioned previously that I have been looking for a resolution to the cooking platform. This past summer I used a combination of the tailgate and the Sherpa storage (which was replaced by the custom kitchen storage discussed above). It worked ok enough but was honestly a bit frustrating to always unload, extend the legs, and was not really stable enough to cook on. The tailgate however is not super flat and allows all the smells to go into the canopy.

So, I ordered a new slide from MORE developed by Jeff S. for the TJ/LJ. But upon arrival, realized it is terribly heavy and I did not want it. It must be solid steel in every area. So back to my tembo tusk slide, to make some modifications. The idea was relatively simple - based on some inspiration of others here I decided a second slide for a table top is in order. So I had to make some measurements, and sit and ponder exactly how this would work....

The design idea was simple, have a second slide out where there can be a permanent mounted sink, with faucet, and space for the Jetfoil to sit for cooking. I had a real hard time deciding which direction I wanted the sink and faucet to face (and in hindsight I think I want the opposite direction than I currently have). So I cut out a scrap sheet of wood and played around for probably a solid week...

Then just double checking the width and overall idea, continued forward with purchasing.

Ultimately I decided that I needed to lift the existing platform the fridge sits on by 4". So turning to 8020, I picked up some aluminum cut to size, anodized, and raised the platform. I also picked up some knockoff slides on amazon for about $150. I was not willing to spend over $400 for accurride slides. No way....

I also had to find these super thin locknuts. Turns out they are called something like a jam nut? Anyway, you can find them at hardware store. Only these are not stainless unfortunately. But if my little town has them, yours has them.

Because they are super thin in order to fit in these tiny gaps, and still have nyloc, they only have maybe 2 threads though, so you can't tighten too tight and need to be careful about length. But there should be no pulling force on a slide anyway, it should be purely sheer forces applied.

Once I had the secondary slides in, it was time to measure width, length and cut some scrap wood as a template. Since plywood is known to not be super strong in certain ways, simply having screws going into the sides potentially separating the chemical bond was not good enough for me. So I cut some strips off of some 1x10x12 pine I had for re-sheeting my roof a few years ago, and made a cutout so that the pine would be bolted to the slide, and the table top would be glued to the pine surround. This way, lateral and sheer forces are applied to solid pine wood rather than relying on the layers of plywood and chemical bonds. Much safer route to go.

It also helps to hide the plywood sheets so it appears as solid wood.

Then after some trimming and fitting, it was time to treat with stain the same as the kitchen box, and install.

It turned out pretty decent I think. But more trimming is needed as it is just a tad too wide and puts the slides at some awkward angles and pressures when opening and closing. But, over the weekend I stumbled across a random video on none other than Facebook, and well, stay tuned for some changes!

 

[chorky]

Today I worked on a project I was not expecting, and hoping would never be a problem. The infamous rear window leak. While putting a few things away behind the front seat I happened to notice a dirt trail just above the rear sliding window. Thinking nothing of it, just being dust/dirt, I wiped it off. But, the detailed OCD person in me had to know the cause. Lifting up the plastic trim, and not really visible in the picture, I could see a dirt stain coming down from where the window is glued to the fiberglas top. Then down on the lip it went where I could see it initially.

Man.... Of all things.

Knowing how much of a headache this has been for others, am determined to try just about anything before letting the dealer touch this - especially considering how they couldnt' even put the bolts back right on the transfer case. So, having some 1/4" weather strip tubing lying around I tried what others have done. Unfortunately the weather strip was too small, and once pushed past the window a little it fell into the open gap between the window and top. So I pushed another layer in there. Even still, there is a gap, and the tubing fits loosely. It definitely will not prevent all water from getting in there, but my hope is it prevents enough to not let it leak, and also prevents enough so that it doesn't freeze and crack the glass or further damage the seal. Taking this to the dealer would be terrible. Having to remove the tent, canopy, and everything would be a massive undertaking that would really put a sour taste in my mouth for the Gladiator. So, if this doesn't resolve it, I think my next step will be to remove the tent, if I can find some help, and squirt a nice thick healthy layer of black dicor.

I also took some of the remaining rubber tubing and put it between the front plastic fender and metal body to hopefully prevent any more pesky little pebbles from getting stuck in there and pitting out the paint.

 

[chorky]

Today I added some L-track to the rear seat delete platform. I should have done this last year, having lose unsecured items in the cab can be deadly in a crash.

I like how it turned out. There is plenty of room for all the camping gear. I probably could have gotten away with one center track, but it felt more even with two.

Although I really need to find something to do with the flare and first aid kit. Their current location is temporary, I like having them on the driver side. It would be nice if there was a rear molle panel that went over the rear glass but didn't cover all of the view. I would prefer to mound them with a quick release so they don't end up buried like they were last year. But it works for now and is much safer.

 

[chorky]

Not a whole lot going on lately with waiting on parts but I did relocate and re-install the two 12v ports for charging things while at camp.

 

[chorky]

Doing a little testing before deciding if I want to swap out the ctek charger in the JT for this one instead, and maybe put the ctek in the TJ.

I will say although totally unnecessary, it's kinda fun watching the charging profile and graph.

 

[chorky]

FINALLY got the solar panels installed the last couple of days. They are already proving to work excellent in low light high angle applications. I think this will work very well, so we'll I might not even need a second battery after all!

Although I will say I am a tad nervous for what the wind noise will be like, and how much of the sat antenna reception will be affected. I wanted to put the front bar forward more but then it would definitely have affected reception. Overall so far pretty pleased with the setup. These Zamp panels are fantastic.

 

[Rusty PW]

Be carefully with those solar panels. Hail storms will ruin your party.

 

[chorky]

Be carefully with those solar panels. Hail storms will ruin your party.

Oh man I would not be happy if that happened. But where I am there isn't a lot of hail, and the largest I have seen is the size of a BB. So should be pretty safe here. Time will tell.

 

[Rusty PW]

Oh man I would not be happy if that happened. But where I am there isn't a lot of hail, and the largest I have seen is the size of a BB. So should be pretty safe here. Time will tell.

Just had a friends house in KC get blasted not long ago. It damaged his solar panels. So it's still fresh in my mind.

 

[chorky]

Just had a friends house in KC get blasted not long ago. It damaged his solar panels. So it's still fresh in my mind.

Man that sucks! Fortunately in my area there is not a ton of hail and it is small. But, a couple hundred miles east over the continental divide and it's a different story. I hope that large size hail never happens here. But if it didn't, and if it was bad enough to destroy the panels, I probably have much worse things to worry about, like holes in the roof, totally destroyed hood's, etc...

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