Deteriorated Engine Oil

[Dakotaz]

And three yeas in Arizona? HELL yeah replace those batteries, or replace the main and bypass the lawn mower battery.

Still under warranty, bought in Feb of 21 and still under the 36,00. So will try to get warranty batteries out of the Dealer. Thanks for the input. Like I said to Papa, I probably just pissed away $35 on Blackstone.

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[Mr._Bill]

I would take it to the dealer and explain the problem very simply. Tell them you just did your sixth oil change and the truck will not let you reset the oil life monitor. Show them that it will not change from that screen. Let them investigate and lead themselves to the battery issue, or whatever the actual problem is. If you provide too much information, or tell them anything about your troubleshooting, it just complicates the issue. Unless they know you well, most of what you say will be ignored.

 

[Hootbro]

Yeah,, this is a weird one. Follow @Mr._Bill advice and just present the problem to the dealership and only state the problem and not what you have troubleshot and let them work their process no matter what it takes them in time to figure out.

The whole OLM function and oil life remaining is just a software parameter algorithmic guess taking in a bunch of engine and driving condition variables. I suspect something just "hiccuped" and skewed the reporting.

If you had a stuck fuel injector you would know it. First it would be in the form of a misfire reporting and secondly, when you drain the oil, there would be extra quantity with the fuel mixed in draining out.

 

[Hootbro]

I guess I have another probably stupid question if I missed it in the other replies, but does the instrument cluster center EVIC display scroll through to the other menus using the left steering wheel up/down buttons or is it locked on that one message display screen?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I probably just pissed away $35 on Blackstone.

Op, this is your 4th oil change? 3 free ones and you just did one yourself? If this was me I’d have 4 oil analysis reports by now. Every time I drop the oil in the engine, diffs, transfer case and will draw out a sample from the transmission, I get a lab report on that component. It’s never a waste of money, it’s knowledge, peace of mind or it allows you to address an issue that’s brewing that may cause an issue down the road. It’s a good habit to get into.

Now about the oil life thing in the cluster and all the oil analysis reports and discussions I have with the lab techs, our vehicles don’t contain a mini lab that analyzes the oil then tells you when to change it based on reading the wear metals or it somehow knows you have an internal coolant leak. You didn’t spend 2 million dollars for your truck. As @ShadowsPapa said it’s all about mileage. It calculates that and temps and it does it’s own math. You live where the butter melts naturally so your vehicle gets hot more I recon. The brains on our trucks are simple and sometimes we can’t fix stupid so I’d take it to the dealership and have them set it right or flash it or give it a software upgrade or something or maybe it just needs a talking too like a problem child.

 

[Dakotaz]

I guess I have another probably stupid question if I missed it in the other replies, but does the instrument cluster center EVIC display scroll through to the other menus using the left steering wheel up/down buttons or is it locked on that one message display screen?

Yes it does scroll.

 

[Dakotaz]

Op, this is your 4th oil change? 3 free ones and you just did one yourself? If this was me I’d have 4 oil analysis reports by now. Every time I drop the oil in the engine, diffs, transfer case and will draw out a sample from the transmission, I get a lab report on that component. It’s never a waste of money, it’s knowledge, peace of mind or it allows you to address an issue that’s brewing that may cause an issue down the road. It’s a good habit to get into.

Now about the oil life thing in the cluster and all the oil analysis reports and discussions I have with the lab techs, our vehicles don’t contain a mini lab that analyzes the oil then tells you when to change it based on reading the wear metals or it somehow knows you have an internal coolant leak. You didn’t spend 2 million dollars for your truck. As @ShadowsPapa said it’s all about mileage. It calculates that and temps and it does it’s own math. You live where the butter melts naturally so your vehicle gets hot more I recon. The brains on our trucks are simple and sometimes we can’t fix stupid so I’d take it to the dealership and have them set it right or flash it or give it a software upgrade or something or maybe it just needs a talking too like a problem child.

Sixth oil change. First time using Blackstone.

 

[Killroy Was Here]

I will post the results from the oil test once it arrives. Not certain what the turnaround time is for Blackstone.

My last one in August, the results took about three weeks. They must have been really busy as previous results were done in 1 1/2 - 2 weeks.

 

[Hootbro]

My last one in August, the results took about three weeks. They must have been really busy as previous results were done in 1 1/2 - 2 weeks.

I have had four Blackstone samples done this year alone and all of them took three weeks from when mailed. It did take about a week to get to them so in reality it took another two weeks to process. I think that is their new normal now.

 

[Hootbro]

Yes it does scroll.

So is that message in place of where your percentage oil life remaining display is?

 

[Dakotaz]

So is that message in place of where your percentage oil life remaining display is?

Yes correct. I am going to reach out to the Dealer to set up an appointment.

 

[Lunentucker]

Still under warranty, bought in Feb of 21 and still under the 36,00. So will try to get warranty batteries out of the Dealer. Thanks for the input. Like I said to Papa, I probably just pissed away $35 on Blackstone.

Blackstone info is good to have. Well worth the $35.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Still under warranty, bought in Feb of 21 and still under the 36,00. So will try to get warranty batteries out of the Dealer. Thanks for the input. Like I said to Papa, I probably just pissed away $35 on Blackstone.

Yeah, get batteries dealt with under the 3/36.
Know that they'll have to test them first - they can't just replace on someone's word. They must be tested. And if they are low when it goes in, they must charge them to a certain point before testing.
If you have issues after dealing with batteries - come back and we'll address those at that point.
For you to be having issues due to low voltage - I don't believe that's where you are with the oil life or the screen telling you it's about to blow because of old oil (being hyperbolic there, it's not going to blow)
You'd have other issues first before you'd have a weird screen. I don't see other signs of a voltage issue but that sure gets kicked out there any time something electronic doesn't work.
11.8 volts is the threshold for aux switches to function, for example, and so far I've not seen people talk of other things malfunctioning but the aux switches still work. It's got to be lower. And one battery can't be low and the other fine because they are in parallel. And if you drive it a while then try to do the reset, voltage should be built up to the point it wouldn't be a problem.
Put a volt meter on the battery when the truck is off and just sitting. Come back with that number. If you don't have a volt meter - it's worth 15 to 20 bucks to go to Walmart or Menards and buy one - you'll find other uses for it later. I have at least 6 of various types, ages and sizes. (not counting panel meters I have)
Anyway, I think sometimes people jump to fast into the low voltage/bad battery thing with only one issue at hand. Measure the battery voltage with truck off.
When it's running, you can scroll to see the system/battery voltage of it running.
Those are the numbers of interest. Unless you have those numbers, it's just tossing stuff at the wall to see what sticks. Don't assume battery or batteries are bad because of a cluster issue.

Drivetrain warranty includes engine - so it's good beyond the 3/36.
It's not a bad thing to have the info from the analysis.
You have at least a baseline or some information proving how things were at a given point in time. So if things go south really quickly for any reason, you can point to an analysis from the recent past.
Information is never a bad thing to have. There's such a thing as information overload, but you aren't even close to that point!

 

[Dakotaz]

Yeah, get batteries dealt with under the 3/36.
Know that they'll have to test them first - they can't just replace on someone's word. They must be tested. And if they are low when it goes in, they must charge them to a certain point before testing.
If you have issues after dealing with batteries - come back and we'll address those at that point.
For you to be having issues due to low voltage - I don't believe that's where you are with the oil life or the screen telling you it's about to blow because of old oil (being hyperbolic there, it's not going to blow)
You'd have other issues first before you'd have a weird screen. I don't see other signs of a voltage issue but that sure gets kicked out there any time something electronic doesn't work.
11.8 volts is the threshold for aux switches to function, for example, and so far I've not seen people talk of other things malfunctioning but the aux switches still work. It's got to be lower. And one battery can't be low and the other fine because they are in parallel. And if you drive it a while then try to do the reset, voltage should be built up to the point it wouldn't be a problem.
Put a volt meter on the battery when the truck is off and just sitting. Come back with that number. If you don't have a volt meter - it's worth 15 to 20 bucks to go to Walmart or Menards and buy one - you'll find other uses for it later. I have at least 6 of various types, ages and sizes. (not counting panel meters I have)
Anyway, I think sometimes people jump to fast into the low voltage/bad battery thing with only one issue at hand. Measure the battery voltage with truck off.
When it's running, you can scroll to see the system/battery voltage of it running.
Those are the numbers of interest. Unless you have those numbers, it's just tossing stuff at the wall to see what sticks. Don't assume battery or batteries are bad because of a cluster issue.

Drivetrain warranty includes engine - so it's good beyond the 3/36.
It's not a bad thing to have the info from the analysis.
You have at least a baseline or some information proving how things were at a given point in time. So if things go south really quickly for any reason, you can point to an analysis from the recent past.
Information is never a bad thing to have. There's such a thing as information overload, but you aren't even close to that point!

Truck parked for 22 hours current voltage using Craftsman digital multi meter set on 20 volt scale was 11.97 volts. When parked yesterday the start/stop was working so running voltage was good enough to activate that at that time.
I have an appointment set up for Monday morning.
Drove it and voltage while driving was running high 13's low 14's.

 

[MemphisMississipp]

Push the start without hitting brake. Will the show run position but engine not running. Now you can reset

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