Does a a 1.5” Spacer lift affect steering.

[Russ75]

I currently own a 2020 max tow with 275 80r17 (34.6” tire). During a recent trip to the desert, was doing some high speed compressions, I noticed rubbing on the outside of the front fender well. I am thinking about putting a 1.5 inch spacer lift on the front. The purpose of use for the truck is towing my toys (why I need a max tow), my wife’s DD, and install a expedition rack with a RTT so I go into places using “blue trails.” I own another toy if I plan to run more difficult trails.
Now for my questions:
1. How will this lift affect the steering, will I need to replace any of the suspension or steering links?
2. Should I put a 3/4” spacer in the rear as others have done?
3. Those who have a spacer lift, how is the ride compared to your stock Gladiator?
Thank you in advance for your help.

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[brianinca]

Seems like the RK spacers would do what you need, but preserve COMPLETELY the current towing and carrying capacities of your truck.

https://rockkrawler.com/suspension/...nd-jt/jt-1-5-suspension-systems/new-category/

Your swaybars and steering shouldn't be affected, though you didn't mention getting the steering box replaced under the TSB.

 

[Renegade]

If your tires are rubbing the fenders, they still could with a spring spacer when under compression, unless you install a "complete" spacer lift (is that an oxymoron?) which includes bump stop spacers. If you're mostly happy with the height, it sounds like you might be able to get by with a mild front spacer and a 1" bump stop spacer. You can make 1" bump stop spacers out of hockey pucks for under $10. You will have to make a minor drag link adjustment if you put in spacers, but that's it. Everything else should be fine as long as you stay around 1.5" on a Sport.

 

[Mac]

Lifting the front 1.5” will change the caster a little and make it feel a little more twitchy and not come back to center on the highway as it did stock. I lifted my max tow 1.5” in the front and .75 in the rear with Daystar spacers. I can notice a little difference so I ordered a pair of the Mopar front lower control arms to put the caster back to stock or possibly a little more, they are around $65 for the pair. I have not installed them yet. I chose the Daystar spacer as it is one piece and replaces the factory isolator, some of the other spacers stack and use the factory isolator resulting in a multi-piece spacer.
What tires do you have ? That is an interesting size. I have 285/75/17s

 

[Russ75]

Lifting the front 1.5” will change the caster a little and make it feel a little more twitchy and not come back to center on the highway as it did stock. I lifted my max tow 1.5” in the front and .75 in the rear with Daystar spacers. I can notice a little difference so I ordered a pair of the Mopar front lower control arms to put the caster back to stock or possibly a little more, they are around $65 for the pair. I have not installed them yet. I chose the Daystar spacer as it is one piece and replaces the factory isolator, some of the other spacers stack and use the factory isolator resulting in a multi-piece spacer.
What tires do you have ? That is an interesting size. I have 285/75/17s

Goodyear MTRs, thank you for your help as well.

 

[brianinca]

Good points about bump stops and lower control arms. I added Terraflex bump stops ($100 and no spring removal needed to install) because I'd bottomed the factory bump stops offroad. They work great, but I wasn't hitting the tires in the first place (35's). I added the Mopar lift lower control arms ($61 for the pair delivered from @AllMoparParts.com) because the insufficient caster magnified the weak ass aluminum steering box issues, so the truck is drivable at stock height.

If your tires are rubbing the fenders, they still could with a spring spacer when under compression, unless you install a "complete" spacer lift (is that an oxymoron?) which includes bump stop spacers. If you're mostly happy with the height, it sounds like you might be able to get by with a mild front spacer and a 1" bump stop spacer. You can make 1" bump stop spacers out of hockey pucks for under $10. You will have to make a minor drag link adjustment if you put in spacers, but that's it. Everything else should be fine as long as you stay around 1.5" on a Sport.

 

[JBahr]

SO I installed the 1.5 Teraflex on my Rubi and now my steering is off. Jeep wants to wander right if the steering wheel is centered. Doesn't pull badly, steering wheel top center just points to 11 o'clock to maintain straight travel. Can anyone explain the adjustment I need to make? First Jeep, be gentle and detailed... Thanks!

 

[Renegade]

SO I installed the 1.5 Teraflex on my Rubi and now my steering is off. Jeep wants to wander right if the steering wheel is centered. Doesn't pull badly, steering wheel top center just points to 11 o'clock to maintain straight travel. Can anyone explain the adjustment I need to make? First Jeep, be gentle and detailed... Thanks!

You just need to adjust the collar on the drag link. It goes from the steering box to the passenger side of the axle. There is a 15mm pinch bolt you need to loosen, but the adjuster should be able to be turned by hand, to shorten the drag link a bit.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

^^^^
Yup -just recenter the wheel. I had to when I put Rubicon springs under mine. It lifted it a bit under an inch and threw the steering wheel off-center a bit.

Then I put a steel bumper and winch and skid plate under it and dropped it half an inch - then raised it back up with 3/4" daystar spacers. I felt like a yo-yo - or the truck must have.
Up then down then up again........ All is fine now, though.
Ride has not changed since adding the spacers.

I lifted my max tow 1.5” in the front and .75 in the rear with Daystar spacers. ................. I chose the Daystar spacer as it is one piece and replaces the factory isolator, some of the other spacers stack and use the factory isolator resulting in a multi-piece spacer.

Funny thing - I know is says remove the rear spring isolators, but there were none on my truck - not UNDER the springs anyway, where the daystar spacers go! It was spring on steel pad.
The fronts it left the original upper isolators in place. The front spacers were shaped to leave the upper isolators in place (and the instructions left them in place)

I dunno if my truck was supposed to have any pads under the rear springs or not, but it didn't. It now has the 3/4" daystar spacers under them.

 

[Renegade]

^^^^
Yup -just recenter the wheel. I had to when I put Rubicon springs under mine. It lifted it a bit under an inch and threw the steering wheel off-center a bit.

Then I put a steel bumper and winch and skid plate under it and dropped it half an inch - then raised it back up with 3/4" daystar spacers. I felt like a yo-yo - or the truck must have.
Up then down then up again........ All is fine now, though.
Ride has not changed since adding the spacers.



Funny thing - I know is says remove the rear spring isolators, but there were none on my truck - not UNDER the springs anyway, where the daystar spacers go! It was spring on steel pad.
The fronts it left the original upper isolators in place. The front spacers were shaped to leave the upper isolators in place (and the instructions left them in place)

I dunno if my truck was supposed to have any pads under the rear springs or not, but it didn't. It now has the 3/4" daystar spacers under them.

They don’t come with isolators under the rear springs.

 

[Mac]

^^^^
Yup -just recenter the wheel. I had to when I put Rubicon springs under mine. It lifted it a bit under an inch and threw the steering wheel off-center a bit.

Then I put a steel bumper and winch and skid plate under it and dropped it half an inch - then raised it back up with 3/4" daystar spacers. I felt like a yo-yo - or the truck must have.
Up then down then up again........ All is fine now, though.
Ride has not changed since adding the spacers.



Funny thing - I know is says remove the rear spring isolators, but there were none on my truck - not UNDER the springs anyway, where the daystar spacers go! It was spring on steel pad.
The fronts it left the original upper isolators in place. The front spacers were shaped to leave the upper isolators in place (and the instructions left them in place)

I dunno if my truck was supposed to have any pads under the rear springs or not, but it didn't. It now has the 3/4" daystar spacers under them.

I should have clarified, I only removed the isolator in the front, there was none in the back to remove.

 

[JBahr]

Thanks Guys, quick and simple fix!

 

[Ckornoski]

With a 1.5 inch spacer in the front and 3/4 spacer in the rear, would changing out the front track bar be needed? I like the idea of adding the mopar longer front control arms to get some of the caster back. Also just curious, how much lift before you start to affect the drive shafts durability, the spacer lift shouldn't be enough to cause an issue right?

 

[Renegade]

With a 1.5 inch spacer in the front and 3/4 spacer in the rear, would changing out the front track bar be needed? I like the idea of adding the mopar longer front control arms to get some of the caster back. Also just curious, how much lift before you start to affect the drive shafts durability, the spacer lift shouldn't be enough to cause an issue right?

Your front axle may be shifted a slight bit, but you should not need a new track bar at that height. The Mopar lower arms should put your caster back in spec, improving steering/handing a bit. Your driveshafts should also be fine with up to a 2.5” or so lift. That depends more on shock length as anything. Using a shock length over 28.5” may allow driveshaft contact with other parts of the Jeep when flexed.

 

[pluikens]

SO I installed the 1.5 Teraflex on my Rubi and now my steering is off. Jeep wants to wander right if the steering wheel is centered. Doesn't pull badly, steering wheel top center just points to 11 o'clock to maintain straight travel. Can anyone explain the adjustment I need to make? First Jeep, be gentle and detailed... Thanks!

That's really weird. Not that it changed your steering, but that when I installed my 1.5" Teraflex kit, I started having to point at 12:15 or so to go straight on a non-windy day. If you increased the distance from the frame to the axle, that would increase the distance from the end of the pitman arm to the steering arm on the right side. I would expect to have to lengthen the drag link when lifting similar to the adjustment to the track bar when lifting.

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