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Don't cross your door wires....

MrFahrenheit

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Figured I'd document my blunder when installing the All window up/down add on that's been discussed at length HERE with an install guide HERE. TLDR at bottom above the pictures.

So I was an early adopter and went to install mine the weekend after it arrived. It was pretty easy to get everything in and everything looked good until I went to test things out. I went to start my truck after installing and nothing. It didn't turn over at all and I was met with a plethora of 'This isn't working' and 'that isn't working' messages on the dash. Message such as:

Blind Spot monitoring unavailable
Speed Control Messaging Unavailable
Air Bag warnings
Traction Control warnings

I think there were a few others, it was a lot. I thought crap! What did I do? I had read about people disconnecting both negative cables on the main battery from each other to reset the system to fix other various issues so I did the same. No change, same warnings but now my Radio (8.4 Uconnect) was asking for a 4 digit anti-theft code and wouldn't boot into the normal screens.

So I start taking out everything I put in and come to find that somehow when I used my posi-top to tap the Green/Dark Green wire at the body side of the door wire harness, a Green/White Stripe wire got caught in it as well and the two wires had been shorted together.

Tracing those out with wiring diagrams I found that the Green/Dark Green stripe wire is the Door Lock Control wire and the Green/White Stripe wire is for the Proximity Door lock system. I thought I found the problem and separated the wires but no, problem was still there.

Tracing these out more I found:

  1. Wires at the door connector XY600A that I crossed (The door to body connector we disconnect to take the doors off)
    1. Green/Dark Green Stripe wire is for the door lock control, and goes through connector XY600A at pin 26 and ends up at the Body Control Module (BCM) Connector C6 pin 2.
    2. Green/White Stripe wire is for the Left Front Passive Entry Switch Return and goes through the connect XY600A at pin 15 and goes into the Radio Frequency Hub Module Connector C2 pin 14.
  2. Connection from each of those Modules to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connectors
    1. The BCM connects from it's connector C5 pins 25 and 26 (Brown and Yellow wires) to to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connector behind the glove box at Connector C2 pins 1 and 2
    2. The Radio Frequency Hub module connects from it's connector C1 pins 3 and 9 (Dark Blue and Yellow wires) to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connector at connector C4 pins 1 and 2
  3. Star Connector CAN-C-Body Connector C1 has Beige/White and Yellow wire that goes to Star Connector C-IP Connector 1
  4. Star Connector CAN-C-IP Connector C5 has Beige/White and Yellow wire that goes to PCM Connector C1 Pin 57 and 33
Ultimately, the next day I had my truck towed to the dealer... sad day. I told them what I did, I know electrical issues are a pain in the ass so I wasn't about to try to play dumb. Obviously, this would not be a warranty repair...

After many hours of diagnostics and wire tracing they found that the yellow wire that goes from the CAN-C-IP STAR connector behind the glove box to the PCM (#4 in the above list) had fried. Basically the wire looked like it 'popped'. It was split with the insulation pulled back on each side. This explains the litany of warning messages in the dash as this is the only connection from the two STAR connectors to the PCM. I had them repair the wire and the Gladiator is now back to it's normal happy self.

Now just to re-install the window module without breaking my truck.... However, on a good note, I learned a lot about the CAN wiring in the process.

TLDR: I tried to be one of the cool kids and allow all my windows to auto up/down and ended up destroying some wiring in my truck causing it not to start after which the dealer said thank you for all your money.

Some obligatory pictures:

The two wires I crossed:

Jeep Gladiator Don't cross your door wires.... IMG_5695_1


Up on the hook:

Jeep Gladiator Don't cross your door wires.... IMG_5671


The fried wire is in a large bundle of wires that goes through the firewall on the passenger side and connects to the PCM in the passenger inner fender. These pictures are from the dealer and unfortunately aren't the best. The focus of the camera was on the wire bundle instead of the bad wire but you can kind of make out that the insulation is gone and the wire is exposed. The wire was broke basically inside the grommet part:

Jeep Gladiator Don't cross your door wires.... 20210309_123055


Jeep Gladiator Don't cross your door wires.... 20210309_123104
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MrFahrenheit

MrFahrenheit

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Always flatbed, per manual and possibly warranty if it messes something up. And definitely NEVER 2 wheels up.

1615426862919.png



Also, I am not installing my up/down feature if anyone wants to buy it. Impulse buy, not interested in it.
Yeah, I thought I remembered something like that: The tow was through Jeep roadside assistance so they should really know better. FWIW the transmission was in park override via the pull loop in front of the shifter and the transfer case was in neutral so nothing was really spinning that shouldn’t be.

But yes, it should have been flat beded.
 

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calipoontappa

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My crystal ball predicted this..
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...tomatic-up-down-all-windows.40708/post-658462




@calipoontappa ... "there's always one"... Yup, that has a clue so to speak..
DAMN that sucks @MrFahrenheit sorry to hear about you truck. Hopefully this helps someone else avoid this. Ill post a link to this on my post.

@Pepe you can't blame this on the product though this was 100% human/install error here. I still think it's in my top 3 mods so far.
 
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MrFahrenheit

MrFahrenheit

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@MrFahrenheit

In all seriousness... I'm sorry this happened...

--Personally, I wouldn't install that death trap if you gave it to me.--
Meh, shit happens. I've done so much stuff to vehicles from rewiring to engine swaps to axle swaps to body work, you name it. It just goes to show that a moment of carelessness, even with an experienced person can cause things to go south.

I merely posted it as a reminder to be mindful of what your doing and put it out there for people to learn from!
 

syreeves

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Figured I'd document my blunder when installing the All window up/down add on that's been discussed at length HERE with an install guide HERE. TLDR at bottom above the pictures.

So I was an early adopter and went to install mine the weekend after it arrived. It was pretty easy to get everything in and everything looked good until I went to test things out. I went to start my truck after installing and nothing. It didn't turn over at all and I was met with a plethora of 'This isn't working' and 'that isn't working' messages on the dash. Message such as:

Blind Spot monitoring unavailable
Speed Control Messaging Unavailable
Air Bag warnings
Traction Control warnings

I think there were a few others, it was a lot. I thought crap! What did I do? I had read about people disconnecting both negative cables on the main battery from each other to reset the system to fix other various issues so I did the same. No change, same warnings but now my Radio (8.4 Uconnect) was asking for a 4 digit anti-theft code and wouldn't boot into the normal screens.

So I start taking out everything I put in and come to find that somehow when I used my posi-top to tap the Green/Dark Green wire at the body side of the door wire harness, a Green/White Stripe wire got caught in it as well and the two wires had been shorted together.

Tracing those out with wiring diagrams I found that the Green/Dark Green stripe wire is the Door Lock Control wire and the Green/White Stripe wire is for the Proximity Door lock system. I thought I found the problem and separated the wires but no, problem was still there.

Tracing these out more I found:

  1. Wires at the door connector XY600A that I crossed (The door to body connector we disconnect to take the doors off)
    1. Green/Dark Green Stripe wire is for the door lock control, and goes through connector XY600A at pin 26 and ends up at the Body Control Module (BCM) Connector C6 pin 2.
    2. Green/White Stripe wire is for the Left Front Passive Entry Switch Return and goes through the connect XY600A at pin 15 and goes into the Radio Frequency Hub Module Connector C2 pin 14.
  2. Connection from each of those Modules to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connectors
    1. The BCM connects from it's connector C5 pins 25 and 26 (Brown and Yellow wires) to to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connector behind the glove box at Connector C2 pins 1 and 2
    2. The Radio Frequency Hub module connects from it's connector C1 pins 3 and 9 (Dark Blue and Yellow wires) to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connector at connector C4 pins 1 and 2
  3. Star Connector CAN-C-Body Connector C1 has Beige/White and Yellow wire that goes to Star Connector C-IP Connector 1
  4. Star Connector CAN-C-IP Connector C5 has Beige/White and Yellow wire that goes to PCM Connector C1 Pin 57 and 33
Ultimately, the next day I had my truck towed to the dealer... sad day. I told them what I did, I know electrical issues are a pain in the ass so I wasn't about to try to play dumb. Obviously, this would not be a warranty repair...

After many hours of diagnostics and wire tracing they found that the yellow wire that goes from the CAN-C-IP STAR connector behind the glove box to the PCM (#4 in the above list) had fried. Basically the wire looked like it 'popped'. It was split with the insulation pulled back on each side. This explains the litany of warning messages in the dash as this is the only connection from the two STAR connectors to the PCM. I had them repair the wire and the Gladiator is now back to it's normal happy self.

Now just to re-install the window module without breaking my truck.... However, on a good note, I learned a lot about the CAN wiring in the process.

TLDR: I tried to be one of the cool kids and allow all my windows to auto up/down and ended up destroying some wiring in my truck causing it not to start after which the dealer said thank you for all your money.

Some obligatory pictures:

The two wires I crossed:

IMG_5695_1.png


Up on the hook:

IMG_5671.jpg


The fried wire is in a large bundle of wires that goes through the firewall on the passenger side and connects to the PCM in the passenger inner fender. These pictures are from the dealer and unfortunately aren't the best. The focus of the camera was on the wire bundle instead of the bad wire but you can kind of make out that the insulation is gone and the wire is exposed. The wire was broke basically inside the grommet part:

20210309_123055.jpg


20210309_123104.jpg
Thank you for posting this. Very helpful read. Sorry your day sucked tho. That blows...
 

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Gatorized

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Figured I'd document my blunder when installing the All window up/down add on that's been discussed at length HERE with an install guide HERE. TLDR at bottom above the pictures.

went to install mine the weekend after it arrived. It was pretty easy to get everything in and everything looked good until I went to test things out. I went to start my truck after installing and nothing.
Message such as:

Blind Spot monitoring unavailable
Speed Control Messaging Unavailable
Air Bag warnings
Traction Control warnings

I had read about people disconnecting both negative cables on the main battery from each other to reset the system to fix other various issues so I did the same. No change, same warnings but now my Radio (8.4 Uconnect) was asking for a 4 digit anti-theft code and wouldn't boot into the normal screens.

So I start taking out everything I put in and come to find that somehow when I used my posi-top to tap the Green/Dark Green wire at the body side of the door wire harness, a Green/White Stripe wire got caught in it as well and the two wires had been shorted together.

Tracing those out with wiring diagrams I found that the Green/Dark Green stripe wire is the Door Lock Control wire and the Green/White Stripe wire is for the Proximity Door lock system. I thought I found the problem and separated the wires but no, problem was still there.

Tracing these out more I found:

  1. Wires at the door connector XY600A that I crossed (The door to body connector we disconnect to take the doors off)
    1. Green/Dark Green Stripe wire is for the door lock control, and goes through connector XY600A at pin 26 and ends up at the Body Control Module (BCM) Connector C6 pin 2.
    2. Green/White Stripe wire is for the Left Front Passive Entry Switch Return and goes through the connect XY600A at pin 15 and goes into the Radio Frequency Hub Module Connector C2 pin 14.
  2. Connection from each of those Modules to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connectors
    1. The BCM connects from it's connector C5 pins 25 and 26 (Brown and Yellow wires) to to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connector behind the glove box at Connector C2 pins 1 and 2
    2. The Radio Frequency Hub module connects from it's connector C1 pins 3 and 9 (Dark Blue and Yellow wires) to the CAN-C-BODY STAR connector at connector C4 pins 1 and 2
  3. Star Connector CAN-C-Body Connector C1 has Beige/White and Yellow wire that goes to Star Connector C-IP Connector 1
  4. Star Connector CAN-C-IP Connector C5 has Beige/White and Yellow wire that goes to PCM Connector C1 Pin 57 and 33
had my truck towed to the dealer...

After many hours of diagnostics and wire tracing they found that the yellow wire that goes from the CAN-C-IP STAR connector behind the glove box to the PCM (#4 in the above list) had fried.

Some obligatory pictures:

The two wires I crossed:

IMG_5695_1.png





The fried wire is in a large bundle of wires that goes through the firewall on the passenger side and connects to the PCM in the passenger inner fender.

20210309_123055.jpg
Did you find a better place to tap into the door or is that location the best available?
 
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MrFahrenheit

MrFahrenheit

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Did you find a better place to tap into the door or is that location the best available?
i think that’s the best spot and it’s a good spot that everyone has been using with success. The BCM is up under the passenger dash somewhere I believe.
 

Mac

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Thanks for sharing your experience, sucks that it happened. Shows how sensitive the systems are, there are lots of post about weird issues from Taser as well not as bad as this but definitely gives me pause before adding anything to the electric system.
 

psylentknight

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So this may be completely coincidental but...after installing this kit I took the Jeep for a drive the next day and had a left front blinker error then later ended up with a right front blinker error. Like I said this could be completely coincidental.
(I have the AAL high-line fender LED kit with the additional resistor harness for non-led JT's) I never had an issue until after I installed this kit. I checked wiring already multiple times and it's all as it should be and the windows are working as they should but I'm having issues with this left and right error. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

StingGrayJT24

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Thank you for sharing your story. I’m sorry this happened to you and I’m glad your rig is fixed.

This thread is a prime example of what makes this forum so great.

BTW, I was super careful isolating wires and tapping into the correct colors. I could see how easy it would be to accidentally pinch another one. There’s not a lot of room to work.
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