Eliminating rub on 2" lifted Mojave w/ 37s?

[GladLad]

Assuming you were correct when you posted that the drivers side rubbed, a new track bar and centering the axle will make it worse not better. Lifting with the stock track bar pulls the axle toward the drivers side.

My driver side hasn't rubbed, yet. I only mentioned in option #2 that I haven't done enough flexing yet to know if a right turn could create a rub as well. Basically acknowledging that a track bar could fix my passenger rub, or introduce a driver rub. Needs some testing.

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[SaiintNick]

And see, you're like the examples I've read that lead me to believe I'd be safe, because surely with a lift I have even more room. And I do, at least with fenders.

But like I mentioned, there's always different experiences, as sometimes the lift or offset changes become the issue. Lift affects axle centering or brings something in line with the tire's wide point. Offset can push you into the lower fender point, etc.

Do you ever disconnect your sway bar when offroad?

Never. I basically do lighter trails and sand dunes. If I did more rocks then I would.

 

[SaiintNick]

Boring!!

But I know, that's why it's listed options #5 and #7.

If there were a 3 peak 37x11.5 tire available, that would have been on from the start. I'm reviewing other options before going tire change route though. I have a 90 day satisfaction guarantee, so I can swap out, but I don't want to use it until needed. If I have to change, I want to do it only once.

If it's me I'm just trimming the skid.

 

[GladLad]

I went to a work site, and got permission to roll up on some dirt hills. Nothing to ride on, so mostly attacking them at an angle, putting one front tire up and cranking the wheel.

I tried connected and disconnected and I couldn't replicate any rub. I will have to try somewhere I can ride the hills more fully (up, down and sideways) as the rub isn't occurring with a turn at these greater flex angles. Must take a certain case, full lock, while flexing up or down into a position.

I could take that as a good thing, as it likely means minimal adjustments could work. Trim the skid, track bar, and/or steering stop.

I took some pics, but being alone means the steering wheel rolls back a bit after letting go, so these aren't as tight as they could be. With the axle being about 1/4" off center, the front of the passenger tire gets closer to some parts. While the rear of the driver tire gets close to the control arm. If I get an adjustable track bar, I suspect the control arm will get further as it goes with the axle more to the center. I'm not sure if it rubs the control arm at any point, but it's pretty close for a stationary pic without anyone holding it at full lock

These pics aren't always fair comparisons as sometimes it's not just driver vs passenger, but also low vs high tire, connected vs disconnected, etc. It gives an idea of overall closeness in some conditions, but I'll have to try to put both wheels into the same positions for fair comparison pics next time.

Passenger side (high, compressed side, outward turn) control arm...

Passenger side (low, uncompressed side, outward turn) control arm...

Driver (low, uncompressed side, outward turn) control arm...

Driver (high, compressed side, outward turn) control arm...

Passenger disconnected Apex Autolynx on compressed side, inward turn...

Vs driver compressed, inward turn...

When on the uncompressed side, the autolynx are of course not close at all.


Passenger skid plate...

Vs driver...

And others.

Passenger, compressed, outward turn.

Passenger, compressed, inward turn, front of fender.

Passenger sway bar with inward turn.

Driver shock, uncompressed, with outward turn.

Overall, I'm thinking a track bar should help, but would still like to replicate the issue first. And maybe see what a steering stop washer could do in that scenario. In the least it'd give me an idea of how severe based on how much it needs adjusting, and decide bar/trim from there.


I watched a couple track bar install videos. Looks like a walk in the park compared to installing the lift. However, they don't seem to loosen the control arms first. I'd think that'd be beneficial to prevent binding since they would be shifting over. Then of course, retorque under full weight.

 

[Pat Witt]

I like stock too. Spacers would be a great fix, but I'm not a big fan of extra poke.

Are you still running 37s without a lift?

Yes, no lift an just a small space I believe it is a 1" spacer so very small poke foe a 12.5" tire and I don't get the feel of it having the steering out of it normal feel

 

[GladLad]

Yes, no lift an just a small space I believe it is a 1" spacer so very small poke foe a 12.5" tire and I don't get the feel of it having the steering out of it normal feel

1" spacer? I'm surprised the recesses on the back of the stock wheels have that much space to allow the extra stud length. Assuming you didn't cut them down.

Does that work with the steel spare, too?

 

[Pat Witt]

1" spacer? I'm surprised the recesses on the back of the stock wheels have that much space to allow the extra stud length. Assuming you didn't cut them down.

Does that work with the steel spare, too?

Not sure on a steely I would have a matching spare

 

[Pat Witt]

1" spacer? I'm surprised the recesses on the back of the stock wheels have that much space to allow the extra stud length. Assuming you didn't cut them down.

Does that work with the steel spare, too?

I think that when I had my 2 door JK I had a set on it with 35s and they were 1.75" and was able to use original studs.

 

[GladLad]

Went to Holly Oaks orv park so I could put the wheels in various states of flex for a rub test with chalk. Full lock turns, having each tire be high, low, etc.

I found where the skid rubs and could also get the rear of the front tires to rub the LCAs. Passenger side worse than driver, since the axle is more driver after the lift. I adjusted the steering stops along the way to see what it took to stop the rub.

It took a lot of effort to get the driver side to barely rub the LCA after turning it out 720 degrees, but after jumping to 990 degrees neither LCA had rub anymore.

Somewhere between 720 and 990 is possibly the sweet spot, but it looks like two M10 washers is equal to 990 anyway (about 5/32"). I'll go with that at least temporarily for now. I tested turn radius in a parking lot using the lines as a right triangle to find the diameter, and only lost a little more than 2 feet total diameter.

The skid still rubs though, so that will be fixed by trimming. However, I think I'd like to install an adjustable trackbar anyway. Stronger, more centered. So I'll save trimming until after as it may fix it, or require trimming both sides as the driver side gets closer. I'll likely push the reservoirs in a little if I do trim.

I may also get geometry correction brackets for caster and smoothing bumps. And those look like they would push the LCAs in by the thickness of the bracket, likely about 3/16-1/4". So that could change rub points too.

The Apex Autolynx look they had the slightest rub at the top, but I suspect only wheels/spacers would eliminate that. Looked minor after trying a lot of flex I don't usually get into, so not worried at this time. I did not use any extra washers in the Apex install, just the one convex one part of standard install.

Passenger lca at stock steering stop (ss).

Passenger skid plate at stock ss.

Driver lca with ss at 720. I kept trying to get it to rub so I'd know for sure, so it wasn't a minor task. Not saying I max flexed, but it's also not often I'm full lock turn with a high/low wheel either.

Passenger skid at ss 1350 degrees, still rubbed so dialed it back to 990 and will trim/trackbar instead.

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