Engine Tick now needs replaced

[KevinM60]

So far so good. I’ve gone overboard on the break in this time. Where the owner’s manual calls for 300 mile initial break in I went 500 and then changed the oil instead of waiting until 5k. I changed it again at 3k because me I wanted to put in the amsoil that I bought when they replaced the engine. I have about 1k on that oil right now. It’s running good. I use the digital gauges a lot to monitor how everything runs and turn the radio off a lot so I can listen to the engine.
I don’t know if all that diligence is necessary but I’m only doing this once (again) and want to have this jeep for a long time.

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[Dave D]

23 w 47k. They already took the head off and cam lifters etc looked fine.

Thats what I have 23 Willys but only 21k km about 13k miles.
I have a tick but it sounds like regular engine noise. I did a break in oil change at 1 k and the oil and filter looked fine.

 

[hemigeno]

Back in September I took my JT in because of a tick in the engine - what I assumed was the camshaft / follower problem that many others have noted. A day later, the dealership called and said "new engine time". They installed a new long block and later said that the problem with the original engine was wrist pin related. They said the valvetrain looked just fine, but I'm very glad they didn't do a short block swap. 2021 3.6L 6MT, with 96,000 miles at the time.

One aggravating thing to note - my extended service contract did not cover replacement of the water pump with the long block install. 3 weeks later it was back in the shop for a new water pump - and the dealership said that they see this often (forced to reuse the original water pump and then have to replace it under a separate work order / claim shortly thereafter). It's not the dealership's choice, it's the service contract provider's. For people in a similar situation, it might be something worth asking about. Oh - and tell the dealership to change the spark plugs while they have the motor out! New plugs aren't part of an engine swap, apparently. DAMHIK.

 

[ZeeJay]

So far so good. I’ve gone overboard on the break in this time. Where the owner’s manual calls for 300 mile initial break in I went 500 and then changed the oil instead of waiting until 5k. I changed it again at 3k because me I wanted to put in the amsoil that I bought when they replaced the engine. I have about 1k on that oil right now. It’s running good. I use the digital gauges a lot to monitor how everything runs and turn the radio off a lot so I can listen to the engine.
I don’t know if all that diligence is necessary but I’m only doing this once (again) and want to have this jeep for a long time.

Your diligence on early maintenance steps isn’t overboard, not even close. The engine especially should be drained off 500 to no later than 1K, afterwords whatever is fine. A lot is happening in the initial run in. Unless the OEM can provide documentation that engine was run to rated speed at peak power under load at which point they dropped the oil which of course they can’t because they don’t then it’s break in on your dime. It’s not just metal, it’s combustion gases passing from unseated rings. Engine will be breaking in for thousands of miles but the initial is very relevant. Break in oil used to be a thing until operating cost per mile became king, now customers don’t want to hear about diligence, they want to hear about 10K OC intervals and lifetime transmission oils.

 

[Zapper]

Yes here it is

Definitely sounds like the bottom end of the engine to me. Spun bearing, wrist pin issue, or something else. Doesn't sound like the classic burnt out intake cam.

Dealer is right on this one, motor is not economical to repair. Enjoy your new engine, sometimes a motor gets put together poorly at the factory. Luck of the draw I guess.

 

[KevinM60]

Your diligence on early maintenance steps isn’t overboard, not even close. The engine especially should be drained off 500 to no later than 1K, afterwords whatever is fine. A lot is happening in the initial run in. Unless the OEM can provide documentation that engine was run to rated speed at peak power under load at which point they dropped the oil which of course they can’t because they don’t then it’s break in on your dime. It’s not just metal, it’s combustion gases passing from unseated rings. Engine will be breaking in for thousands of miles but the initial is very relevant. Break in oil used to be a thing until operating cost per mile became king, now customers don’t want to hear about diligence, they want to hear about 10K OC intervals and lifetime transmission oils.

That’s always the way we did it in the past so I went with what always worked before.

 

[JTGuy]

Something must be wrong with mine. I can't hear anything when it is running.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

Back in September I took my JT in because of a tick in the engine - what I assumed was the camshaft / follower problem that many others have noted. A day later, the dealership called and said "new engine time". They installed a new long block and later said that the problem with the original engine was wrist pin related. They said the valvetrain looked just fine, but I'm very glad they didn't do a short block swap. 2021 3.6L 6MT, with 96,000 miles at the time.

One aggravating thing to note - my extended service contract did not cover replacement of the water pump with the long block install. 3 weeks later it was back in the shop for a new water pump - and the dealership said that they see this often (forced to reuse the original water pump and then have to replace it under a separate work order / claim shortly thereafter). It's not the dealership's choice, it's the service contract provider's. For people in a similar situation, it might be something worth asking about. Oh - and tell the dealership to change the spark plugs while they have the motor out! New plugs aren't part of an engine swap, apparently. DAMHIK.

Yea I’ve had a 95 Wranler recall for extended warranty for corroded exhaust manifold studs. I happened to wait too long to get it in and the head developed a heat crack new the exhaust manifold. The dealer said Jeep was going to replace the head. I asked what was included and they said everything but plugs and ignition related, but all gaskets and coolant. I asked if. Paid for the parts if they would install instead of the old and they said yes! I got my 95 Wrangler back in 2000, with 62,000 miles on it with new head and all related gaskets, coolant and labor. Plus oil filter change, tire rotation, new plugs wires and cap, all for $105! I ended up adding a new Bestop tan/spice roof with neoprene lining and dark windows, then ran it till 2003 with 91,000 miles and traded in for a new 2003 Dakota Reg Cab 4x4 V8 5 speed, that listed for $22,500, getting $8,000 in trade for my 8 year old Wrangler.

 

[KevinM60]

Something must be wrong with mine. I can't hear anything when it is running.

From most of everything I’ve read that’s how they’re supposed to be. My first engine was very smooth and quiet and was easy to leave running by accident.
I might just be paying more attention now and I didn’t do much waiting for it to get to idle speed on warmup with the first one. The general rule was make sure it runs long enough to get the oil flowing good but don’t push it until it warms up.
Now I’m more focused on the engine behavior and performance

 

[nolanick]

My Gladiator has a ticking sound. Under diagnostics nothing could be found but metal shavings in the oil pan. They are putting a new engine in under warranty.
Will this be new or rebuilt from Jeep?

Does this make the Jeep worse or better?

so did you ever definitively learn what the issue was that caused the sound?

 

[SG99JT]

No I haven’t and it’s still not done. Been a month and a half. Should I just get rid of this thing? I only owned it for 3 weeks.

 

[ZeeJay]

No I haven’t and it’s still not done. Been a month and a half. Should I just get rid of this thing? I only owned it for 3 weeks.

They have the parts or an engine at least?

 

[Cape taco12]

Well my 2020 6spmt with 45k just did it. At dealer they say it’s passenger side needs 2 cams, the works ect. It started very subtle and it was like injector noise. I parked it next to several vehicles at work with the same motor and it was ever so slightly louder. Even under load it was subtle. I thought I was crazy and over sensitive to the injector noises. Within a tank and a half of fuel it became evident it was an issue. Noticed on the passenger side what I believe is the vvl solenoid was leaking a tiny bit of oil. Straight to the dealer.

Always dealer maintained out of official warranty. Dealer repair price estimate was around 3.4K waiting on parts. Hoping Jeep will do something as this is clearly an issue on their end. I love the Platform but the repeated quality issues have got me seriously considering not trading in for a newer Gladiator in the next few years.

 

[JTGuy]

How much warning if any do you get with this?

 

[ZeeJay]

Well my 2020 6spmt with 45k just did it. At dealer they say it’s passenger side needs 2 cams, the works ect. It started very subtle and it was like injector noise. I parked it next to several vehicles at work with the same motor and it was ever so slightly louder. Even under load it was subtle. I thought I was crazy and over sensitive to the injector noises. Within a tank and a half of fuel it became evident it was an issue. Noticed on the passenger side what I believe is the vvl solenoid was leaking a tiny bit of oil. Straight to the dealer.

Always dealer maintained out of official warranty. Dealer repair price estimate was around 3.4K waiting on parts. Hoping Jeep will do something as this is clearly an issue on their end. I love the Platform but the repeated quality issues have got me seriously considering not trading in for a newer Gladiator in the next few years.

Ouch man, 3400 Dollhairs for some top end on one bank.

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