Enhanced Bed Lighting Project

[Wolf Island Diver]

I’ve had @ORACLElights led light strips under the factory trail rail for years and I’m happy with those. However, they’re mostly covered by my molle panels, house battery, power tank, etc. I wanted more light in the middle of the bed. With my Diamondback Cover in place I can just run led light strips in the deep recessed sections of the clamshells, but I had some other requirements.

1. Both red and white (cool or warm) lights
2. Only red or no lighting in the bed upon opening the tailgate
3. Convenient switch location
4. One switch for all the lights
5. Ability to easily replace bad led strips without touching the wiring harness
6. Ability to add additional lights
7. Ability to disconnect individual LED strips
8. Ability to open clamshells without interfering with the wiring
9. Ability to easily disconnect the wiring to remove the clamshells
10. Still have access to white bed lights with all thcrap removed.

I made a mounting plate for the 2 way switch that’s riveted to the rear lip of the rear clamshell and sits above its bottom edge so that nothing can hit it when sliding in or out of the bed yet is intuitively right at the fingertips when reaching into the underside of the cover. It’s also extremely unlikely to get bumped here.

There’s 4 strips per clamshell; 2 white and 2 red. That’s plenty. Each connects to the 3 conductor harness with common coax plug type connectors. Everything is in heat shrink and wiring harness tape, and it all fits along the far side edge of the cover above the trail rail where nothing can hit it. Because the Diamondback Cover is deep (or tall) the wiring is well protected.

Both a 2 conductor power cable from the switch and a 3 conductor harness bridge cable to the front clamshell curve under the pivoting edge of the rear clamshell and both have waterproof connectors so they can be disconnected. Both cables form generous loops but the clamshell moves down and away from the inside edge of the center section so this is required. The bridge cable forms a loop at the front clamshell as well. The cables all sit nicely behind my inverter/battery mount so nothing will snag on them. The LEDs are wired in parallel (as they should be) but this also means that the bridge cable can be disconnected to only run the rear clamshell lights if needed.

I covered both stock bed lights in red Lamin-x. This way the there will never be bright white light in the bed without my turning it on. I’ve still got two Oracle led strips with their own switch wired to the truck so even if the Diamondback, house battery, etc is removed I can still have good white light when needed.

The finished product:

Sponsored

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Parts List and Cost:

Waterproof connectors: $12.99x 2
https://a.co/d/bc9wm4V

2 way switch: $7.95
https://a.co/d/cubjdXL

Waterproof LED Strips, 1 red reel and 1 “white” (bluish): $16.99 x 2
https://a.co/d/hAvi3as

2.1mm x 5.5mm connectors. I soldered these to the LED strips: $9.29
https://a.co/d/aB3Ggjv

12x12 aluminum sheet metal: $10 at Ace

I had the 2 and 3 conductor cable from other projects but it’s about $16-20 per roll. I also had the butt and ring connectors, solder, tape, shrink tube, adhesive promoter, zip tie mounts, etc.

Total Cost:

~ $90, but I’ve got lots of left over connectors, cable, etc. The only thing fully used was the switch and LED strips.

Edit:
Lamin-x: $21
https://a.co/d/4j4upKQ

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Another vid of the switching and a better idea of just how much light is put out by this.

 

[flipmode]

Really smart setup, nice work

 

[amoyer_01]

Where did you wire them in to have power? I want to add additional lights besides the 2 stock ones but I don't like they only stay on for a few seconds.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’ve had @ORACLElights led light strips under the factory trail rail for years and I’m happy with those. However, they’re mostly covered by my molle panels, house battery, power tank, etc. I wanted more light in the middle of the bed. With my Diamondback Cover in place I can just run led light strips in the deep recessed sections of the clamshells, but I had some other requirements.

1. Both red and white (cool or warm) lights
2. Only red or no lighting in the bed upon opening the tailgate
3. Convenient switch location
4. One switch for all the lights
5. Ability to easily replace bad led strips without touching the wiring harness
6. Ability to add additional lights
7. Ability to disconnect individual LED strips
8. Ability to open clamshells without interfering with the wiring
9. Ability to easily disconnect the wiring to remove the clamshells
10. Still have access to white bed lights with all thcrap removed.

I made a mounting plate for the 2 way switch that’s riveted to the rear lip of the rear clamshell and sits above its bottom edge so that nothing can hit it when sliding in or out of the bed yet is intuitively right at the fingertips when reaching into the underside of the cover. It’s also extremely unlikely to get bumped here.

There’s 4 strips per clamshell; 2 white and 2 red. That’s plenty. Each connects to the 3 conductor harness with common coax plug type connectors. Everything is in heat shrink and wiring harness tape, and it all fits along the far side edge of the cover above the trail rail where nothing can hit it. Because the Diamondback Cover is deep (or tall) the wiring is well protected.

Both a 2 conductor power cable from the switch and a 3 conductor harness bridge cable to the front clamshell curve under the pivoting edge of the rear clamshell and both have waterproof connectors so they can be disconnected. Both cables form generous loops but the clamshell moves down and away from the inside edge of the center section so this is required. The bridge cable forms a loop at the front clamshell as well. The cables all sit nicely behind my inverter/battery mount so nothing will snag on them. The LEDs are wired in parallel (as they should be) but this also means that the bridge cable can be disconnected to only run the rear clamshell lights if needed.

I covered both stock bed lights in red Lamin-x. This way the there will never be bright white light in the bed without my turning it on. I’ve still got two Oracle led strips with their own switch wired to the truck so even if the Diamondback, house battery, etc is removed I can still have good white light when needed.

The finished product:

VERY nicely done. Impressed.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Where did you wire them in to have power? I want to add additional lights besides the 2 stock ones but I don't like they only stay on for a few seconds.

I have a fuse block mounted to my electrical panel in the back that's wired to my LifePO house battery.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/renogy-lifepo-house-dual-battery-install.71866/

You could run this off of the starting battery by running a line up along the frame rail or tap the rear light clusters. I added up amp draw of these LED strips a while back for my awning lighting project. It’s very low. I still have a port that’s wired to the starting battery in the bed that I ran the 5 awning light strips off of without any issue for over a year. I’ve since migrated everything to the LifePO, so the starting battery is always preserved, especially as I’ve added more lighting, inverter loads, sink pump, etc. I can better manage and monitor the state of my Renogy system than the convoluted truck electrical system. You could also easily solder in a plug to run this off of a portable power unit like a Goal Zero. That’s how I powered all my stuff before building the Renogy system and I’ve made adapter plugs to I could still unplug this from the house battery and plug into a GZ if needed. If you don’t mind having a Lithium system in your vehicle all the time taking up space it’s a more cost effective solution than a portable unit.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

If you don’t have lots of stuff along the sides of the bed and have an open bed or soft tonneau and not something like the Diamondback or don’t want something as complex as what I’ve done, and just want to add more lighting, I would just go with the @ORACLElights system.

https://www.oraclelights.com/products/oracle-truck-bed-led-cargo-light-60-pair-w-switch

This system is easy to install, tapping into the rear lights power wires. I installed them along the trail rails several years ago. I still have these in the truck and they’ll still be in place even if I remove the overlanding stuff and house battery. They’re plenty bright for most peoples needs. For me I just had too much stuff mounted along the sides, e.g., PowerTank, molle panels and all my house battery crap, I wanted more light and the ability to switch between red and white. The Diamondback LED light strip is small and battery operated which I didn’t want although it may meet some people’s needs especially if they just need a simple additional light going across the rear.

 

[Minty JL]

Nice work

 

[Waltzforzizi]

Is that a Diamond back cover? What fridge are you running, it looks like it fits under the cover pretty well?

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Is that a Diamond back cover? What fridge are you running, it looks like it fits under the cover pretty well?

It’s a Diamondback HD. The fridge is an ARB Classic II 63qt. I made a locking slider for it out of HDPE.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/diy-slide-out-w-sink.74944/post-1223987

 

[Waltzforzizi]

It’s a Diamondback HD. The fridge is an ARB Classic II 63qt. I made a locking slider for it out of HDPE.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/diy-slide-out-w-sink.74944/post-1223987

I like it, I have a diamondback, but not as cool as your set up.

 

[MSgt4246]

I’ve had @ORACLElights led light strips under the factory trail rail for years and I’m happy with those. However, they’re mostly covered by my molle panels, house battery, power tank, etc. I wanted more light in the middle of the bed. With my Diamondback Cover in place I can just run led light strips in the deep recessed sections of the clamshells, but I had some other requirements.

1. Both red and white (cool or warm) lights
2. Only red or no lighting in the bed upon opening the tailgate
3. Convenient switch location
4. One switch for all the lights
5. Ability to easily replace bad led strips without touching the wiring harness
6. Ability to add additional lights
7. Ability to disconnect individual LED strips
8. Ability to open clamshells without interfering with the wiring
9. Ability to easily disconnect the wiring to remove the clamshells
10. Still have access to white bed lights with all thcrap removed.

I made a mounting plate for the 2 way switch that’s riveted to the rear lip of the rear clamshell and sits above its bottom edge so that nothing can hit it when sliding in or out of the bed yet is intuitively right at the fingertips when reaching into the underside of the cover. It’s also extremely unlikely to get bumped here.

There’s 4 strips per clamshell; 2 white and 2 red. That’s plenty. Each connects to the 3 conductor harness with common coax plug type connectors. Everything is in heat shrink and wiring harness tape, and it all fits along the far side edge of the cover above the trail rail where nothing can hit it. Because the Diamondback Cover is deep (or tall) the wiring is well protected.

Both a 2 conductor power cable from the switch and a 3 conductor harness bridge cable to the front clamshell curve under the pivoting edge of the rear clamshell and both have waterproof connectors so they can be disconnected. Both cables form generous loops but the clamshell moves down and away from the inside edge of the center section so this is required. The bridge cable forms a loop at the front clamshell as well. The cables all sit nicely behind my inverter/battery mount so nothing will snag on them. The LEDs are wired in parallel (as they should be) but this also means that the bridge cable can be disconnected to only run the rear clamshell lights if needed.

I covered both stock bed lights in red Lamin-x. This way the there will never be bright white light in the bed without my turning it on. I’ve still got two Oracle led strips with their own switch wired to the truck so even if the Diamondback, house battery, etc is removed I can still have good white light when needed.

The finished product:

Why do people constantly keep coming up with new ideas? I'm running out of money. That Jeep is better lit than some nightclubs I have been too.
LOL. Very very nice!! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Phase 2: Dedicated to my dad…



Added exterior side lighting in red and white, cargo area lighting and a rear handle light. All of it is controlled with a Garmin Power Switch.

Side lights:
These are fixtures I made from LED light strip V channel that each contain 1 red and 1 white LED strip. Each fixture has attached diffusers but could be run without them since the LED strips are waterproof. The fixtures are sealed. and mounted to the underside of the Front Runner. The fixtures connect to a wiring loom with watertight connectors.

Just the lights. The passenger side gets cut off a little by the water port. The driver side extends straight out. Both light up the ground around the truck well. This will be great pulling into camp sites and as rear biased ditch lights.

With the rock lights on there’s basically full coverage around and under the truck.

The red lights.

The exterior and interior red lights. This is great for checking the truck in the middle of the night without ruining your night vision or waking everyone up.

The cargo light so I can see up on the rack. It’s the same type of fixture I made for the side lights, just containing a single white strip. It’s mounted to the back of the awning.

The Front Runner Grab Handle light. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Front-Runner/FR97HJ.html

It’s basically a metal handle that mounts to the edge of a Slimline rack and has a rock light bolted to it.

This is good for working behind the truck on the tailgate, trailer, etc., or whenever you need rear light and can’t have it in reverse. The grab handle nests under the Maxtrax when they’re on.

All of these lights wire into cables with waterproof connectors up on the Front Runner. Those cables then have waterproof connectors where they enter the Diamondback. The cables enter along the side at the hinge. The way the Diamondback is designed, the cables enter in such a way that it won’t leak because they’re routed up and over the inner center rain tray of the cover.

The wires are wired into a Garmin Power Switch connected to the Lithium house battery. People should consider these over Switch Pros, etc. They don’t require a Garmin GPS. They work with an app on your phone via Bluetooth, so there’s no module to connect through a firewall. They can run routines, they can take input signals and you can install multiples of them. Of course, they work with Garmin Treads as widgets on the map, Home Screen or their own app. The phone app also works through CarPlay. With all of this I can control all this exterior lighting from the cab as needed. It took 15 minutes to wire it up.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Phase 2: Dedicated to my dad…



Added exterior side lighting in red and white, cargo area lighting and a rear handle light. All of it is controlled with a Garmin Power Switch.

Side lights:
These are fixtures I made from LED light strip V channel that each contain 1 red and 1 white LED strip. Each fixture has attached diffusers but could be run without them since the LED strips are waterproof. The fixtures are sealed. and mounted to the underside of the Front Runner. The fixtures connect to a wiring loom with watertight connectors.

Just the lights. The passenger side gets cut off a little by the water port. The driver side extends straight out. Both light up the ground around the truck well. This will be great pulling into camp sites and as rear biased ditch lights.

With the rock lights on there’s basically full coverage around and under the truck.

The red lights.

The exterior and interior red lights. This is great for checking the truck in the middle of the night without ruining your night vision or waking everyone up.

The cargo light so I can see up on the rack. It’s the same type of fixture I made for the side lights, just containing a single white strip. It’s mounted to the back of the awning.

The Front Runner Grab Handle light. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Front-Runner/FR97HJ.html

It’s basically a metal handle that mounts to the edge of a Slimline rack and has a rock light bolted to it.

This is good for working behind the truck on the tailgate, trailer, etc., or whenever you need rear light and can’t have it in reverse. The grab handle nests under the Maxtrax when they’re on.

All of these lights wire into cables with waterproof connectors up on the Front Runner. Those cables then have waterproof connectors where they enter the Diamondback. The cables enter along the side at the hinge. The way the Diamondback is designed, the cables enter in such a way that it won’t leak because they’re routed up and over the inner center rain tray of the cover.

The wires are wired into a Garmin Power Switch connected to the Lithium house battery. People should consider these over Switch Pros, etc. They don’t require a Garmin GPS. They work with an app on your phone via Bluetooth, so there’s no module to connect through a firewall. They can run routines, they can take input signals and you can install multiples of them. Of course, they work with Garmin Treads as widgets on the map, Home Screen or their own app. The phone app also works through CarPlay. With all of this I can control all this exterior lighting from the cab as needed. It took 15 minutes to wire it up.

Big project. Nicely thought out.

Sponsored