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External oil pump

BTG36

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Me and my father are thinking the pentastar needs an external oil pump to keep oil pressure constant.
We're thinking the cams,rockers and lifters aren't getting enough oil.
We are thinking that when the rpm's drop the cams,rockers and lifters lose oil volume. They get too hot and friction starts. Just a Theory we have.
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MrZappo

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Sounds trollish.

If not, than it just sounds wrong. On many levels.
 

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Me and my father are thinking the pentastar needs an external oil pump to keep oil pressure constant.
We're thinking the cams,rockers and lifters aren't getting enough oil.
We are thinking that when the rpm's drop the cams,rockers and lifters lose oil volume. They get too hot and friction starts. Just a Theory we have.
That is a lot of thinking.

Of all the issues the Pentastar has had with valvetrain and the occasional thrown rod, a viable case has never been made to attribute any of it to oiling or oil pressure issues. Closest one gets to it is that there is no anti-drain back of the oil filter and oil cooler assembly where there is a couple seconds from a cold start until primed. For daily drivers, there is enough oil film retention to not be any appreciable issue.

The current internal variable pressure oil pump does a pretty good job. Adding anything external to that is just monkeying with things that do not need monkeying with.
 
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willys 41

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MrZappo

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Ok, 24 hours past and no response from the OP. So, a troll.

Move on, nothing to see here.
 
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BTG36

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Sorry, I work a lot.

My issue is I'm not a daily driver so most of the time it sits. I drive 2 miles to work and it sits for 8-9 hours. I was thinking if oil was pumped through the motor before start up, then no more dry starts.
 

willys 41

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This is where the Baxter oil filter adapter really helps with oil drain back
It along with the anti drain back valve in the spin on oil filter greatly reduces the oil draining back to the oil pan
On the 3.6 the oil filter housing is part of the oil cooler so the cooler is also draining back
 

MrZappo

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Sorry, I work a lot.

My issue is I'm not a daily driver so most of the time it sits. I drive 2 miles to work and it sits for 8-9 hours. I was thinking if oil was pumped through the motor before start up, then no more dry starts.
Respectfully, that is totally different than your first post.

If you want to pump oil through the engine there are ways to do that although it's not needed.

And IMHO, that Baxter thing although interesting and cool, is a solution in search of a problem.

We have engines that routinely to 200k without top end work.

I think the engineers did a pretty good job. I see no need to throw expensive aftermarket "cool stuff" on engines that are already well refined with a strong history.

Driving only 2 miles to work, you should be more worried about your battery not getting charged sufficiently.
 

willys 41

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Do this test
Let your jeep set over night
Remove the oil filter
What you will see is a almost dry oil filter. Not even oil dripping from the filter and a completely empty oil filter housing / oil cooler
That is why you get the bone chilling rattle from the valve train when starting after sitting
1. You have to frill the oil filter housing
2. You have to push all that air though the oil galleys
I have the Baxter in both my Wrangler and no long get that bone chilling rattle on startups
I just wish I would have done it sooner
 

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Do this test
Let your jeep set over night
Remove the oil filter
What you will see is a almost dry oil filter. Not even oil dripping from the filter and a completely empty oil filter housing / oil cooler
That is why you get the bone chilling rattle from the valve train when starting after sitting
1. You have to frill the oil filter housing
2. You have to push all that air though the oil galleys
I have the Baxter in both my Wrangler and no long get that bone chilling rattle on startups
I just wish I would have done it sooner
I looked into the oil filter and cooler conversion a few weeks back, I would be interested in it. If so it will be a later project for me though.... A interesting thing I saw in Walmart app when I clicked link on accessories for a Gladiator, left side camshaft. ?
 

willys 41

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Blade1668
If you are interested in keeping the coolant / oil / trans cooler you should install the RPM extreme fan controller
I have this on my jeep and it is a game changer as far as keeping fluids cooler
I now see coolant / oil temps 25 to 30 degrees cooler
Average coolant temps 190 to 195
Average oil temps are also 190 to 195
With the fan controller I see no need to add a oil cooler just the standard Baxter adapter

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
 
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BTG36

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Respectfully, that is totally different than your first post.

If you want to pump oil through the engine there are ways to do that although it's not needed.

And IMHO, that Baxter thing although interesting and cool, is a solution in search of a problem.

We have engines that routinely to 200k without top end work.

I think the engineers did a pretty good job. I see no need to throw expensive aftermarket "cool stuff" on engines that are already well refined with a strong history.

Driving only 2 miles to work, you should be more worried about your battery not getting charged sufficiently.


I have already deleted the auxiliary battery and stepped up to an h7 battery. Plus I have a flexible solar panel on the roof with a charge controller set to trickle charge.

I already know about the Baxter Performance. I'm in the works of designing something similar but more technically advanced.
 

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I have already deleted the auxiliary battery and stepped up to an h7 battery. Plus I have a flexible solar panel on the roof with a charge controller set to trickle charge.

I already know about the Baxter Performance. I'm in the works of designing something similar but more technically advanced.
The solar system is a surprisingly good thing, I can leave my JT parked for a week or so and still fully charged battery (batteries "I've not removed aux battery" and have a house battery with its stand alone solar)
 

Blade1668

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Blade1668
If you are interested in keeping the coolant / oil / trans cooler you should install the RPM extreme fan controller
I have this on my jeep and it is a game changer as far as keeping fluids cooler
I now see coolant / oil temps 25 to 30 degrees cooler
Average coolant temps 190 to 195
Average oil temps are also 190 to 195
With the fan controller I see no need to add a oil cooler just the standard Baxter adapter

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
Thanks, that's a interestingly good choice for me especially when towing. While towing I've seen oil temperature get up to 217°, coolant 210° and transmission 206° in hot weather. The oil life monitoring system starts ticking down the oil life dramatically, $40.°° oil change is cheaper than an engine.
So I'll keep this in mind. Damn more stuff on list of things to do. Lift kit, lockers, now this too.
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