Extra wear from larger tires

[PyrPatriot]

What is the extra wear from having 35s, and from 37s? It seems the consensus is that 35s will cause less extra wear compared to 37s, which often weigh only a couple pounds more than 35s.

What are the parts that will wear out faster now that I have heavy Falken 35s on my rig? How do I know signs of wear to replace said parts? At about what mileage of road driving and weekly forest road off road driving (almost no rock crawling, though some roads have rocks) will I need to replace what?

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[Alabama Mud Machine]

Dude, minimal if you have a Rubicon with Dana 44's. Stop overthinking it, and just do it.

But, the things that COULD wear faster would be brakes (heavier tires/wheels), ball joints, hub bearings, steering components, and some might argue about axle internals, but with D44's and only running 37's you shouldn't have any noticeable difference in wear & tear on the internals. All these things could wear out just as easily from running 35's. So, if you want 37's, go for it while your Jeep is still new with low miles.

Fun-fact based on my personal experiences...

I've found that vehicles that get modified when new, get broken-in with the modded parts, and gets used to them as the norm, and are less-likely to tear up from the mods. This is based on dozens of vehicles in the nearly 20 years I've been building/modding them.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Dude, minimal if you have a Rubicon with Dana 44's. Stop overthinking it, and just do it.

But, the things that COULD wear faster would be brakes (heavier tires/wheels), ball joints, hug bearings, steering components, and some might argue about axle internals, but with D44's and only running 37's you shouldn't have any noticeable difference in wear & tear on the internals. All these things could wear out just as easily from running 35's. So, if you want 37's, go for it while your Jeep is still new with low miles.

Fun-fact based on my personal experiences...

I've found that vehicles that get modified when new, get broken-in with the modded parts, and gets used to them as the norm, and are less-likely to tear up from the mods. This is based on dozens of vehicles in the nearly 20 years I've been building/modding them.

Dont all JTs come with Dana44s? My max tow has the same axles as the rubicon

 

[Incommando]

Dont all JTs come with Dana44s? My max tow has the same axles as the rubicon

Yep they all have D44’s front and rear

 

[Renegade]

The extra maintenance is worth every smile along the way!

 

[PyrPatriot]

The extra maintenance is worth every smile along the way!

And to keep the smiles coming, I want to take care of maintenance before they become problems. Head them off, so to speak. I'd rather replace a part that still has a thousand miles left on it than have to replace it when it breaks.

I've found that vehicles that get modified when new, get broken-in with the modded parts, and gets used to them as the norm, and are less-likely to tear up from the mods.

My tires went on at about 17k miles. I don't plan on putting in a lift for a while though, at least not until 36k miles. At this rate that would be half a year so I may just wait until the 5yr 60k mile warranty expires . Good to know for future purchases.

 

[LostWoods]

I'm fairly convinced the engineers built the JL and JT for 35s from the get-go with how easy they fit on every model. You will always see a little extra wear but I think the parts were made to handle it.

37s off road will want some steering upgrades (like once you wear out the factory parts) but I don't think you'll see that much excess wear otherwise.

 

[PyrPatriot]

So far, can anyone give specific parts to look after and signs of wear? I’ll even be happy with a list of parts and use other sources to see about signs of wear and repair

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

And to keep the smiles coming, I want to take care of maintenance before they become problems. Head them off, so to speak. I'd rather replace a part that still has a thousand miles left on it than have to replace it when it breaks.

My tires went on at about 17k miles. I don't plan on putting in a lift for a while though, at least not until 36k miles. At this rate that would be half a year so I may just wait until the 5yr 60k mile warranty expires . Good to know for future purchases.

I'm a big proponent of "break it in like you plan on driving it"... If you plan on beating it like a rented mule, break it in that way. During the first couple-thousand (2500) miles will be the most critical. Just personal opinion. WIth vehicles nothing is ever set in stone, it's just a matter of luck of the draw, but I've found when I mod new(er) vehicles, then they tend to handle the upgrades better than when modding old or half-worn out vehicles.

I started modding my 6.7 Cummins with around 2,000 miles on the clock... It's been rolling along just fine for 62,000 miles without issues. Most folks that get one with 100K on the odo and start modding it, blow shit up. Mine has been pushing out 550-600 RWHP for over 50,000 miles now, and it's still perfect and tight. Not a single issue. But folks who mod later in the vehicle's life, blow headgaskets and other shit like it's going out of style. Constant problems. The ONLY thing I can figure is that breaking it in like you plan on driving it, truly does help keep problems from arising later in time as the mileage and wear & tear starts taking its natural course.

 

[PyrPatriot]

I'm a big proponent of "break it in like you plan on driving it"... If you plan on beating it like a rented mule, break it in that way. During the first couple-thousand (2500) miles will be the most critical. Just personal opinion. WIth vehicles nothing is ever set in stone, it's just a matter of luck of the draw, but I've found when I mod new(er) vehicles, then they tend to handle the upgrades better than when modding old or half-worn out vehicles.

My 18k miles have included (starting in March at before 10k miles) weekly outings to trails having a mix of rutted roads, washouts, rock terrain, and climbing over a rock or two. Usually a whole day from 9am to 6pm riding. Since December I had on 32" mud terrains that only weigh a less than my current 35s (63lbs per vs 80lbs) but more than the OEM tires (38lbs...wow that's 40lbs per corner heavier than stock and still 20lbs heavier than Rubicon tires). I have thrown the dice and really pushed my JT over the past 3 months and 10k miles

 

[LostWoods]

I'm a big proponent of "break it in like you plan on driving it"... If you plan on beating it like a rented mule, break it in that way. During the first couple-thousand (2500) miles will be the most critical. Just personal opinion. WIth vehicles nothing is ever set in stone, it's just a matter of luck of the draw, but I've found when I mod new(er) vehicles, then they tend to handle the upgrades better than when modding old or half-worn out vehicles.

I'm not sure I'd go full rented mule off the lot but no reason to pussy foot it. It's not a bike here so as long as you're mixing it up for the first 1k or so, it'll be fine.

But like he said, mod early if you want power adders. You're going to have a pretty typical set of loads that the engine will wear to and mixing that up way down the line with a big power adder is the best way to fuck something up.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I'm not sure I'd go full rented mule off the lot but no reason to pussy foot it. It's not a bike here so as long as you're mixing it up for the first 1k or so, it'll be fine.

But like he said, mod early if you want power adders. You're going to have a pretty typical set of loads that the engine will wear to and mixing that up way down the line with a big power adder is the best way to fuck something up.

I started the mods at around 250 miles on mine...Lift, tires, wheels... And Tazer & iDrive at around 500 miles on the clock, and it's still a lease (for now, till I buy it out when it's up). I'm not going to baby it, but I do drive it like I plan on driving it.....For now.....WIth the current powertrain's limitations... Till it's mine, and it gets a 6.4 Hemi swap.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Here is the most extreme type of trail I will do. See channel's other vids for more of the typical stuff
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ort-now-with-video-of-offroading.31152/page-2

 

[Deleted member 30519]

I put like over 15k on my JL sport with my 35 Duratracs and the tread looks exactly the same the day they got delivered. They are on my gladiator now they have a video of a guy comparing 37 and 35 Duratracs and it wasn't that much of a difference so comparing 35s to 37s can be tricky depending on the make.

 

[Texops]

So every Jeep i have had when JK's came out after lifting properly with 35" tires the front end parts that are non serviceable, get way too much slop at 30,000 miles. so i replace tie-rod, drag-link, track bar also swaybar links with Synergy , Metalcloak, JKS or rockkrawler , Yetti. most are 1 ton spec parts. & serviceable. i have replaced all that on my Gladiator before 5,000 miles . except my tie-rod and that's next. ball joints can go soon if you wheel a lot & hard. rear brakes wear quickly on JK around 30,000miles but JT have a lot bigger brakes. i also got the synergy sector shaft brace just to stiffen up steering box . then just check all bolts regularly.

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