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Falcon SP2 3.3 Adjustment

rezar1

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I installed my Falcon SP2 3.3 A-adapt shocks last year. The shop that installed it, set it to the Performance mode instead of soft mode. Their rational was that with 37" tires and potential payload, it will better.

However, I am feeling like the truck is rougher than it should be. It's fine and much better than stock setup but I can't help thinking if soft would have been better.

I wanted to find out from those folks who have installed Falcon SP2 3.3s, which setting did you go with?

Soft or performance?

How are you liking your ride and what are some impressions you can share. Has anyone switched between soft and performance?

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I'll be interested to see the replies. I recently installed a full suspension on my heavy-loaded JTRD with Alu-Cab Canopy Camper, with Falcon 3.3s. I set all the SP2 selectors to soft. I find the handling good on the pavement on Mode 3, though slightly underdamped on big whoops and diagonal gullies. I switch to Mode 2.4 off-pavement, and I'm liking that too (though I want to experiment with the fine adjustments on long washboard sections). I haven't tried Mode 1 yet, or the performance SP2 setting

I'm wondering, since #1 is probably useless and #3 is definitely not too firm, if it's worth switching to Performance and see if I find #1 useful off-road, #2 about right, and #3 better damped for pavement. It's not too hard an experiment so I'll give it a go. I know most users have found Performance to be harsh, but I wonder how many of them had diesel, winch, bumper, and an extra 800 lbs in the bed like me
 

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I actually got to talk to Dennis from Teraflex at their party at EJS22. We ended up talking about the 3.5 e-aDapts. He told me his preference was to twist to soft/Cold, then set the dial all the way up to max. IIRC that should land firm mode a bit over soft when twisted to performance. I would say give it a go and see. Also remember you can go into the app and tweak settings, ie run auto mode but configure when the shocks swap from soft to hard. I've found that can keep it more in the soft zone.

Me personally? I live in a hot area (its in the 90s today) and running the performance setting works for me. I have front and back antirocks, 5"+ of lift and still out corner most non sports cars. Oceano dunes is a spot I hit up 3-4 times a year and I also have been wanting to get up into the Mojave dunes over the last year... it'll happen eventually.

I have the long arms on order I can report back when I put them in on how that changes things up.
 

bakobobby

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I'll be interested to see the replies. I recently installed a full suspension on my heavy-loaded JTRD with Alu-Cab Canopy Camper, with Falcon 3.3s. I set all the SP2 selectors to soft. I find the handling good on the pavement on Mode 3, though slightly underdamped on big whoops and diagonal gullies. I switch to Mode 2.4 off-pavement, and I'm liking that too (though I want to experiment with the fine adjustments on long washboard sections). I haven't tried Mode 1 yet, or the performance SP2 setting

I'm wondering, since #1 is probably useless and #3 is definitely not too firm, if it's worth switching to Performance and see if I find #1 useful off-road, #2 about right, and #3 better damped for pavement. It's not too hard an experiment so I'll give it a go. I know most users have found Performance to be harsh, but I wonder how many of them had diesel, winch, bumper, and an extra 800 lbs in the bed like me
I also wonder how many of them just prefer a very cushy ride. I came from German sports cars to my Gladiator that have been modified with mild racing coilover setups and slammed to the ground. I think your also correct in that how much gear you run and the weight could be a factor.

A big factor though is the springs. If you get the Teraflex springs that are made to directly go with the Falcon's you'll have a better experience. The first time my girl rode with me she couldn't stop saying how smooth and comfy the ride was in my truck. Like just out of no where she brought it up. She drives a brand new Mazda SUV mind you. I ran Fox 2.0 shocks for a bit and coupled with the Teraflex springs it was very bouncy albeit controlled. It had a floaty feeling. I still have those, they'll slot in while the Falcon's are being rebuilt someday down the road.
 

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I installed them on the lighter setting and imo, 1 isn't soft enough (digressive valving?) and 3 isn't firm enough for harder running, so there's room to go up.
most of my highway driving is 1 but it will bottom out (4½" up travel) on bigger speed bumps and potholes.
off-road trail running if washouts over 2" then go to 2.1 and up depending on size.
Sometimes street driving is on 3 which takes a lot of bounce out.
 

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I ran SP2 3.3's on my JTR for 2 years. They were set in SOFT mode from day 1. I never tried PERFORMANCE. It's as easy as removing the lower shock bolt and twisting the shaft 360 degrees if you want to play.

With Clayton springs these shocks never left "1" on the dial. Very firm springs and very firm shocks IMO and turning up the dial on the Falcons just made things even more harsh. I then switched to Synergy Mfg springs and the Falcons became usable. I only ever played between setting "1" and about "2.6" on the dial. I'd ride around on "1" at all times until we loaded up for camping then I'd go "2.1" in the front and about "2.4" in the rear. My biggest gripe with the Falcons was small bump compliance. I felt like potholes on road and washboard off road were just jarring hits (even on "1"). I just put Fox 2.5 Elite's on last weekend and I hope to have a better idea if my thoughts on the Falcon's being too firm was just in my head or a reality.
 
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You should definitely rotate them to the lighter setting.

If I ever get to do serious rock climbing or take it to the track (loI,) l will rotate them to performance and go from there.
 

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I ran SP2 3.3's on my JTR for 2 years. They were set in SOFT mode from day 1. I never tried PERFORMANCE. It's as easy as removing the lower shock bolt and twisting the shaft 180 degrees if you want to play.

With Clayton springs these shocks never left "1" on the dial. Very firm springs and very firm shocks IMO and turning up the dial on the Falcons just made things even more harsh. I then switched to Synergy Mfg springs and the Falcons became usable. I only ever played between setting "1" and about "2.6" on the dial. I'd ride around on "1" at all times until we loaded up for camping then I'd go "2.1" in the front and about "2.4" in the rear. My biggest gripe with the Falcons was small bump compliance. I felt like potholes on road and washboard off road were just jarring hits (even on "1"). I just put Fox 2.5 Elite's on last weekend and I hope to have a better idea if my thoughts on the Falcon's being too firm was just in my head or a reality.
Its for sure not in your head. They are firm, probably the most firm off the shelf for a Gladiator/Wrangler you'll find. At the end of the day its your money you should enjoy how things work. Fox are great shocks I look forward to hearing how they work out for you!
 
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rezar1

rezar1

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Thank you all for your replies. Two noob questions (I am new wrenching on my truck).

1. Can I adjust the shocks without lifting the truck or do I need to lift/jack up the truck to rotate the bottom portion of the shock.

2. When I want to rotate them to Soft, is it 180 degrees or 360 degrees. I recall seeing in the video that when you install them, you have to rotate them. So does rotating 180 bring it back to the starting point (default) and then another 180 to move it to Soft/cold? Hopefully the question make sense.

Thanks,
 

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1. Yes, but since the truck will be loaded down into the middle of its travel, the gas pressure in the shocks will put some load on the shaft and make it hard to pull the bottom bolt out (electric impact in reverse works, or slowly with a ratchet), and harder to get them re-installed. You can align the bottom mount if you use a jack to push it up, and a tool (ie big screwdriver) from the backside of the bracket to hold it aligned while you slip the bolt in.

2. The shaft can rotate freely as much as you want, with little resistance. I suppose the actual mechanism change takes a 180 turn, but since the front mount is off-center, and rear mount is asymmetric with the debris guard mount, they have to be clocked 360 (or multiples of 360). In other words, there's no 'starting point,' no absolute positions. Just rotate it 360 or more in either direction, and it'll switch.

(edited to remove incorrect info)
 
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darkhorse13

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Its for sure not in your head. They are firm, probably the most firm off the shelf for a Gladiator/Wrangler you'll find. At the end of the day its your money you should enjoy how things work. Fox are great shocks I look forward to hearing how they work out for you!
Yeah all the forum chatter here and on JL site all say they are firm. It's been the only aftermarket shock I've tried on my JTR so it will be nice to have a comparo. Honestly, for the money they are still the best value for an adjustable 2.5 shock. I will say they never leaked, never creaked and the fit&finish was fantastic. Also, they nailed the compressed and extended travel lengths for max travel with an OEM driveline. I just wish we'd have the option to 3rd party "tune" them like Accutune or something. I know the JK/JL folks can order the 2-door version for their 4-door for a "softer" option so it would be nice if the JT crowd could use an alternative set too. Honestly, with a few tweaks I think they could be great and I'm VERY curious to see the rollout of the Falcon JL coilovers teased at EJS and YouTube. Who knows, I'm willing to go back one day maybe....

I'll start (another) new Fox Elite 2.5 thread in the next month or so to give impressions there and not derail this OP's thread :)
 

darkhorse13

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2. The shaft can rotate freely as much as you want, with little resistance. I suppose the actual mechanism change takes a 180 turn, but they recommend 360 just to be sure. Same as going 540 or 720, just more than 180 to be certain it's fully engaged. In other words, there's no 'starting point,' no absolute positions. Just rotate it more than 180 in either direction, and it'll switch.
Sorry I mispoke, yes the 180 turn will likely change the internal mech but the eyelet of the shock needs to be clocked a specific way which requires a full 360 turn. There's a great YT video of the "shaft twist" tutorial. You could technically keep twisting and twisting the same direction indefinitely and it won't do anything more. Once you start the initial twist it engages the mechanism inside for either SOFT or PERFORMANCE.
 

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I also wonder how many of them just prefer a very cushy ride. I came from German sports cars ...
I think your also correct in that how much gear you run and the weight could be a factor...
A big factor though is the springs.
All good points. I also come from M3s and Miatas, and a Tacoma with dual overload leafs and heavy coilovers. I found the full stock Gladiator floaty, and dangerously floppy with the Alu-Cab and stock suspension. Now with Clayton diesel + HD springs (on the heavier end of the spectrum), I'm happy with the weight-carrying, travel, and articulation but would like a touch more damping.
 

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Sorry I mispoke, yes the 180 turn will likely change the internal mech but the eyelet of the shock needs to be clocked a specific way which requires a full 360 turn. There's a great YT video of the "shaft twist" tutorial. You could technically keep twisting and twisting the same direction indefinitely and it won't do anything more. Once you start the initial twist it engages the mechanism inside for either SOFT or PERFORMANCE.
Oh great, point, the front mounts are off-center, the rears have an asymmetric debris guard, so both can only mount in one orientation. So there's no 180 increment possible. I updated my incorrect post
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