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Flushing Brake Fluid

WILDHOBO

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ShadowsPapa

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I think the key to the discussion is 'Preventative' maintenance. There is no guarantee of failure from not flushing the fluids regularly and there is no guarantee of no failure when using a maintenance schedule. It is all in what level of risk/expenditure you are happy with.
I have seen 2 year old brake lines rust through and 60+ year old lines still going.

(Yes, ASE, GM, Jaguar, Bendix, Meritor/Wabco trained, certified, blah, blah, blah)
That's pretty much the crux of it.
You can also get by not changing differential lube, and go longer on coolant and so on.
People in some forums just have a cow if you suggest they can go more than 60K on axle lube but ignore taking care of brakes. Why the difference? Because "they were told on forums" it's not necessary. OK, not necessary, but it's pretty scary out there the condition of some brakes.

My 82 SX4 came to me with about 156,000 miles on it - all original brakes. To this day it's running the original steel lines.
My 73 had rotted lines and cylinders - master was so badly etched it was beyond repair.
It can indeed go either way, but most of what I've seen over the years could have saved a lot of money and emergency repairs had some "preventative maintenance" been done.
My brother's 69 Javelin needed all new brake parts, my 70 only needed front calipers rebuilt.

Which way will yours go?

It's a risk - and I don't like having to buy entire calipers and other major parts so I do the "fluid change" on brakes.
When I rebuild cars - brakes get gone through before any other parts are touched.

So my comment in general to the general public is -
Don't go preaching about the necessity of changing this or that fluid then say "you never need to flush brake systems"
 
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PuddleJumper

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That's pretty much the crux of it.
You can also get by not changing differential lube, and go longer on coolant and so on.
People in some forums just have a cow if you suggest they can go more than 60K on axle lube but ignore taking care of brakes. Why the difference? Because "they were told on forums" it's not necessary. OK, not necessary, but it's pretty scary out there the condition of some brakes.

My 82 SX4 came to me with about 156,000 miles on it - all original brakes. To this day it's running the original steel lines.
My 73 had rotted lines and cylinders - master was so badly etched it was beyond repair.
It can indeed go either way, but most of what I've seen over the years could have saved a lot of money and emergency repairs had some "preventative maintenance" been done.
My brother's 69 Javelin needed all new brake parts, my 70 only needed front calipers rebuilt.

Which way will yours go?

It's a risk - and I don't like having to buy entire calipers and other major parts so I do the "fluid change" on brakes.
When I rebuild cars - brakes get gone through before any other parts are touched.

So my comment in general to the general public is -
Don't go preaching about the necessity of changing this or that fluid then say "you never need to flush brake systems"
I'm going off the same logic with motor oil at this point. Oil is cheap, engines are not. Just change the oil. only difference here is i can at least test the fluid and get results on its true condition.
 

Scott L

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Depends who you ask
This was a few years ago but i was driving through the mountains in our Ford Exploder with 175 k miles and original brake fluid. Going a bit too fast I got a little sideways in a corner and the anti roll nanny kicked in and blew out two brake lines. Pucker factor high I crawled it down to the bottom of the mountain and took it to the local shop. The lines were corroded from inside.I am now firmly in the flush brakes category.
 
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PuddleJumper

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This was a few years ago but i was driving through the mountains in our Ford Exploder with 175 k miles and original brake fluid. Going a bit too fast I got a little sideways in a corner and the anti roll nanny kicked in and blew out two brake lines. Pucker factor high I crawled it down to the bottom of the mountain and took it to the local shop. The lines were corroded from inside.I am now firmly in the flush brakes category.

Damn!
 

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WILDHOBO

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This was a few years ago but i was driving through the mountains in our Ford Exploder with 175 k miles and original brake fluid. Going a bit too fast I got a little sideways in a corner and the anti roll nanny kicked in and blew out two brake lines. Pucker factor high I crawled it down to the bottom of the mountain and took it to the local shop. The lines were corroded from inside.I am now firmly in the flush brakes category.
I can understand why.
 

ecidiego

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The video upload seems to have gone to crap with a recent forum update. Sorry. Yes. I’m holding the brake down to the floor.
Pretty sure you arent supposed to floor the pedal with the ABS bleed procedure.
 
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PuddleJumper

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Pretty sure you arent supposed to floor the pedal with the ABS bleed procedure.
Thats what Jscan says to do on thier procedure.
 

WILDHOBO

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Pretty sure you arent supposed to floor the pedal with the ABS bleed procedure.
According to what I’ve read, including from the screen on my scanner, you are. But it hasn’t worked, so I’m open to suggestions.
 

ecidiego

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The Jeep tool talks about firm pressure while ABS cycles. Firm versus floored, fighting the ABS? Don't know if it even matters. Jscan and alfa have sketchy instructions....not sure why someone can't just verbatim copy Jeeps own tool instructions word for word.
 

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WILDHOBO

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The Jeep tool talks about firm pressure while ABS cycles. Firm versus floored, fighting the ABS? Don't know if it even matters. Jscan and alfa have sketchy instructions....not sure why someone can't just verbatim copy Jeeps own tool instructions word for word.
That would sure be nice.
 

WILDHOBO

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It's not in the service usb either....says ' follow instructions in the tool ' or something.
Lovely. I’ll try some other stuff and report back. I heard a rumor that hooking up a battery charger during the test was a thing. Anyone heard that?
 
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PuddleJumper

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The Jeep tool talks about firm pressure while ABS cycles. Firm versus floored, fighting the ABS? Don't know if it even matters. Jscan and alfa have sketchy instructions....not sure why someone can't just verbatim copy Jeeps own tool instructions word for word.
Hmm, i did mine to the floor. and as the ABS did its thing it pushed the pedalback up to a certain point and then modulated. I wonder if you have quads of steel and hold to to the floor to hard it wont work?
 

ecidiego

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You can always try ghetto bleeding the ABS.....dirt/snow....lock them up. Air will go into the system...do manual bleed.
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