Frame rust.

[Gren71]

I had this on my JK, currently none on the Jt. I used a couple cans of rust converter then sprayed the high heat engine paint spray all over the frame and drive shaft. I did this every 2 years and my dealer always commented on how the JK’s under side look like new every time they saw it.

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[Jeeperjamie]

Fluid film is your friend. Good luck getting any money back on it, that's completely normal. Every Jeep I have ever owned develops surface rust like that. On my JKU after I sanded and hit the rust spots with undercoating spray, I then did the fluid film.

 

[PyrPatriot]

I love Eastwood Rust converter. I was restoring a 1962 International harvester Travelette crew cab truck and used Eastwood rust converter on the entire frame and it was night and day difference. Firm believer and recommend it. Here is some before and after and this was all rolled/brushed on:

well now I am considering Eastwood

So Por/Eastwood then Woolwax

 

[Pasquinesk1]

I know there will be surface rust and spots that need to addressed as time goes on, it's part of living in Maine...guess I was just surprised to see paint flaking off so soon.

I am fine touching it up myself, and have done so before, was just curious if anyone had gone through any warranty process first.

 

[Bunchahoopla]

well now I am considering Eastwood

So Por/Eastwood then Woolwax

I have used por15 as well but when I used the Eastwood on that frame, I will never use por15 again. It held up so much better and went on easier. My .02

 

[PyrPatriot]

I have used por15 as well but when I used the Eastwood on that frame, I will never use por15 again. It held up so much better and went on easier. My .02

thanks

 

[Blade1668]

I have used por15 as well but when I used the Eastwood on that frame, I will never use por15 again. It held up so much better and went on easier. My .02

Good info. I have used POR 15 a few times. The Eastwood sounds better and looked too.

 

[MaximusDecimusMeridius]

I use Ospho but you have to be careful as it is some pretty nasty stuff

 

[Factoid]

Some people swear by POR15, perhaps swayed by marketing. I’ve used Eastwood products since the 80’s when they had their little store in Fraser, PA and have never been disappointed. You will find negative reviews for both with the most common being “flaking off in large pieces”. In my opinion that is improper surface prep. Both extremes, failure to remove loose and crumbling rust and failure to provide enough surface bite for the converter to adhere are common problems as are failure to remove 100% of oil and grease.

I used the newer Eastwood Platinum rust converter on the frame of my 1964 Corvette and it has been awesome. Here is a before and after picture. I jacked up one side of the body and then the other.

 

[sdk131]

Even better than fluid film for a brand new vehicle is Amsoil Metal Protector HD. It sprays on, then dries hard and dry like a candle wax. Stuff is amazing. Contains rust inhibitor chemicals as well. I use it on all my new vehicles when I bring them home. I use the fluid film for inside of frame rails and for older/dirtier vehicles.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I love Eastwood Rust converter. I was restoring a 1962 International harvester Travelette crew cab truck and used Eastwood rust converter on the entire frame and it was night and day difference. Firm believer and recommend it. Here is some before and after and this was all rolled/brushed on:

I've used rust CONVERTERS for years. I won't use those rust "encapsulators" - but the rust converters do work, especially if you half-way follow directions. They contain tannin - and are ORGANIC.
I tried it first on my 70 Javelin where a bit of rust was starting at the lower corners of the windshields, near the drain holes behind the trim. That was 2007. Sold the car last fall and there was no rust anywhere to be seen 13 years after that repaint.
I use it on all sorts of things now - including the stators of alternators I restore. I derust them as much as possible with a wire brush, then spray then with Extend, then after a few hours, I spray a translucent paint on them and they look factory new. And they won't rust for many many years.
I've used it on car repairs since the Javelin, in one case a rusted floor I needed to patch where two floor panels overlapped and were spot welded. The upper layer rusted through. I sprayed Extend on the top of the lower panel after cutting out the bad section of the top panel, welded the patch in place, and sealed things up.
I got a steel work bench when a college was cleaning out a bunch of furniture - it had seen decades of work.. I sandblasted it, treated some spots with Extend and that was about 10 years ago, still using the bench, no rust has returned.
Tannin reacts with the iron oxide, converting it to ferric (iron) tannate, a stable blue/black product of the corrosion - no longer "rust".
Tannin based rust converters have been used by historical conservationists for years. (wrought iron railings on historic buildings, etc. for example. )
Many rust converter products have other ingredients, often phosphoric acid but if you use too much, you leave an acid film, not enough and you don't thoroughly convert the rust.

I'm a bit concerned about how to deal with this frame rust, though............

 

[Factoid]

Lol, yeah that one requires replacement.

 

[93civej1]

ive got some spots on mine like the first pic. I dont really live or drive in a rust prone area, but not sure exactly how I have those on mine exactly like the first.
Id prefer to just fix it myself at home.
What would be a good process / supplies to fix this up without being too noticeable of a repair? (factory looking)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

ive got some spots on mine like the first pic. I dont really live or drive in a rust prone area, but not sure exactly how I have those on mine exactly like the first.
Id prefer to just fix it myself at home.
What would be a good process / supplies to fix this up without being too noticeable of a repair? (factory looking)

I restore classic cars and parts for same.
My process is to remove as much rust as possible - sanding, whatever. Then I use a product to CONVERT any remaining rust - Something like Extend or similar. NOT an encapsulator, but a CONVERTER. These are used by historical groups to restore and preserve things like wrought iron railings and so on, things to do with historical buildings. The right product will contain tannen. Then once that is properly applied, I seal with a good primer and paint.
I did this on one of my cars back in about 2007 where rust had just started round the windshield lower corner pinch weld areas where there were drains and a couple of other areas rust had just started. As of 18 months ago - still no sign of any rust on that car - anywhere.
Same for my SX4 - treated any surface rust areas with a converter (Extend) and primed and painted.

If it's areas you can't possibly get to then you may have no choice but something like one of Eastwood's encapsulating products but I hate the thought of simply sealing active rust in place myself.

 

[93civej1]

I restore classic cars and parts for same.
My process is to remove as much rust as possible - sanding, whatever. Then I use a product to CONVERT any remaining rust - Something like Extend or similar. NOT an encapsulator, but a CONVERTER. These are used by historical groups to restore and preserve things like wrought iron railings and so on, things to do with historical buildings. The right product will contain tannen. Then once that is properly applied, I seal with a good primer and paint.
I did this on one of my cars back in about 2007 where rust had just started round the windshield lower corner pinch weld areas where there were drains and a couple of other areas rust had just started. As of 18 months ago - still no sign of any rust on that car - anywhere.
Same for my SX4 - treated any surface rust areas with a converter (Extend) and primed and painted.

If it's areas you can't possibly get to then you may have no choice but something like one of Eastwood's encapsulating products but I hate the thought of simply sealing active rust in place myself.

Can convertors just be picked up in a normal store / auto parts store?

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