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SD Rider

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Good looking JTRD!
Did you do the lift yourself? Looks like there was a lift involved, so maybe no?

I just finished my 3.5" Clayton lift and have yet to install the Currie Currect-Lync Steering and stabilizer due to the rain.

Nice about the hi-lift. Didn't know there was an underseat mount for it!

Odd about Nittos not fitting. My 37" Yoko fits in the stock location in my JTR, left the heat shield on also....

Nitto Ridge Grappler - 36.77"
Yoko Geolander X-MT - 36.8"
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Iddpaul

Iddpaul

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Good looking JTRD!
Did you do the lift yourself? Looks like there was a lift involved, so maybe no?

I just finished my 3.5" Clayton lift and have yet to install the Currie Currect-Lync Steering and stabilizer due to the rain.

Nice about the hi-lift. Didn't know there was an underseat mount for it!

Odd about Nittos not fitting. My 37" Yoko fits in the stock location in my JTR, left the heat shield on also....

Nitto Ridge Grappler - 36.77"
Yoko Geolander X-MT - 36.8"
Thanks so much, yup we did a Clayton 1.5" as I'm trying to keep the COG a little lower for towing. I believe there's a difference in clearance on the diesel vs the gasser for the spare tire mount. We couldn't get the Nitto/Rim configuration to fit without modifying/removing the shield (which I didn't want to do). By the way, your ride looks great!
 

SD Rider

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Iddpaul said:
Thanks so much, yup we did a Clayton 1.5" as I'm trying to keep the COG a little lower for towing. I believe there's a difference in clearance on the diesel vs the gasser for the spare tire mount. We couldn't get the Nitto/Rim configuration to fit without modifying/removing the shield (which I didn't want to do). By the way, your ride looks great!
Thanks!
There must be as the tires are the same size. I even had to get the matching spare because of the backspacing. Plan to do a 5 wheel rotation.
I'll admit I didn't research the JTRD for spare tire clearance. I did considered it while shopping for a Rubicon...
I also considered larger tires + regear, but don't want to sacrifice bed space or have a swingout that limited the tailgate being down (aka using it for drywall or plywood). My last 2 lifted vehicles, one was in the bed (01 F250) the other was on a swingout rack (96 Pathfinder).
 

TexasOverlander

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SD Rider, you mentioned the backspacing on the JTR. I read that backspacing is slightly different between the Rubicon and the Mojave? Does anyone know if a stock Rubicon wheel can be used on the Mojave? Or is backspacing/width an issue?
 
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Iddpaul

Iddpaul

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Thanks to everyone providing information in other posts, been reading lots on bed racks, but did a couple of quick cost effective changes (busy weekend). Redline and Rugged Ridge latches on the hood. Can't stop someone from taking a ride but maybe slow them down? Also reduced the aerial height down to 13" and improved reception.

Jeep Gladiator "GrayBell" JTRD Build GB Redline Hood


Jeep Gladiator "GrayBell" JTRD Build GB Rugged Ridge Latch


Jeep Gladiator "GrayBell" JTRD Build GB Rugged Ridge Latch 1


Jeep Gladiator "GrayBell" JTRD Build GB Rugged Ridge Latch 2


Jeep Gladiator "GrayBell" JTRD Build GB Ariel
 

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SD Rider

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So many cheap cars as a kid... I will not waste my offroad budget on struts. But to each their own. Just installed a couple interior mods that will be on my thread.
 

Viper501

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So many cheap cars as a kid... I will not waste my offroad budget on struts. But to each their own. Just installed a couple interior mods that will be on my thread.
The struts are nice for the Mojave’s super heavy steel hood. Especially for the price.
 

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What is your opinion on the 4.56's? I am torn between 4.10's and 4.56. Did you go 4.56 to help with your towing? I am on the BFG 37 which runs short. The 3.73's pull ok but I would like a little more gear. Wish there was a 4.30 available.
 
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Iddpaul

Iddpaul

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What is your opinion on the 4.56's? I am torn between 4.10's and 4.56. Did you go 4.56 to help with your towing? I am on the BFG 37 which runs short. The 3.73's pull ok but I would like a little more gear. Wish there was a 4.30 available.
Hi, it's a really tough call due to time/effort and money to make the gear change. IMO a gear change is way worth it - period! Unfortunately the 4:10's are slightly under geared with 37's (Nitto's) when compared to the 3:73 and 33's (factory), and the 4:56's are over. The best gauge is what you're intending to do, for me I'm extremely happy that I went with 4:56 because I'm towing a small teardrop when on the highway, otherwise my driving is in a rural town (FL so it's mainly flat). I will say that the JT has come alive with the 4:56's and feels like an unlimited amount of low end performance. The downside is that I'm paying slightly on the top end as I'm cruising around 2000 rpm at about 70/75 mph. This is still fine as a good band for diesel rpm cruising is in the 1500-2500 rpm for highway (8th), so for me I'm not seeing an issue (80 mph still gets me in the band). Also I'm still getting close to 22 mpg (21.8 last time I checked). I do agree with you, 4:30's would be about perfect, but we can't get Dana's so I went with the lower 4:56's and have no regrets! Your smaller BFG 37's may increase the rpm a little more than mine on the highway when cruising, so again your use will be the deciding factor. The good thing is that the diesel is a horse so if you only went with 4:10's you'd see improvement and lower rpm than me at cruising, again for me it's not a race car so I wanted the extra low end performance while still getting acceptable highway speeds/rpm levels.
 

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Thank you for a perfect reply
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