Having it all - JTRD sun buggy, trail rig and overlander

[Fcmalie]

I love those Skottle-esque cooktops, but it's hard to get my head around the cost. For now, I'll go with a pullout kitchen as much for the storage efficiency as the cooking surface itself. I find that bins waste a lot of space in how they're formed and how they fit together, and are never a perfect match for the space I have under the tonneau cover. They're also no fun to lug out at a highway rest area when trying for a quick lunch. I'm hoping that a custom-made pullout can make maximum use of the space with minimal lost to structure, while giving me an quick campsite or roadside access.

Of course, let's see what I think a few months from now when I'm actually making the thing

Good luck, I had a bit of sticker shock when I looked at my cart, so I get the price point. After getting this one though the quality appears to be top notch. It feels like this thing would support my weight. We will see how it works out, but at a minimum it gives us a bigger cooking area than the trailer, and that's important when cooking for 4.

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[John in the Woods]

This is the best pic I have for showing how the Fox 2.0 stabilizer fits into the Synergy relocation kit and the stock steering.

I wrote a little about installing the relocation kit here, and used it at first with the stock dampener. That setup worked fine, but I upped to the Fox stabilizer in anticipation of some added stresses from the weight gain of jumping from Rubicon wheels and 35" KO2s to AEV Borah wheels and 37" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs. I carry the factory dampener as a backup, in case of a trail mishap.

I don't feel much of a difference at highway speeds. The factory dampener worked well, and my steering has always felt stable (except when a rock took out my original pre-relocation dampener). The Fox dampener feels about the same. Stable and relatively tight. Surprisingly, it makes the steering feel a little lighter during slow-speed turning such as tight k-turns and parallel parks.

All in all, a good addition. And again, props to @Northridge4x4. Their customer service rep answered the phone on 1 ring, and knew his stuff. He made sure the unit I got was the right fit.

 

[John in the Woods]

The last pieces of added underbody protection for now were skids, I focused on the engine and tranny pans, and the fuel filter. All of the above have taken a few impacts even on my modest trail driving, and the price of damage in those places for a solo guy driving in remote areas is too great.

The choices for the diesel are more limited, but in the end I went with @ASFIR 4x4 and got aluminum skids for the engine and tranny, and the transfer case and fuel filter. One obvious advantage is the price. I was able to get both skids for about the price of just one from some other places. The skids are made in Israel, and were shipped in two days and at my door in about a week. Leonard, the import-export coordinator, confirmed the order fast and kept me updated. The skids came packed very well, very clean, and they looked great. At every point, Asfir was a pleasure to do business with.

I'll concede I am not a frequent rock crawler, and I rarely drop the engine or tranny onto anything. I'm more a drag-it-over-something kind of trail guy. I read some cautions about Asfir using a lower grade aluminum than some other skid manufacturers, but I wasn't worried. I assume that significantly lower prices comes from somewhere, and I think even a slightly softer aluminum is better than the stock pans when the ragged end of a rock tries to play can opener as I roll by.

Install was a bit of a pain. Another place Asfir might be controlling cost is on developing instruction sheets. Basically, you don't get one. You get a parts blow-out with a few notes, but no real instructions, no recommended sequence, no torque specs, no how-to video online (at least not for the diesel) and no tips on how to do things that might be challenging -- and that's notable here because unlike the 3.6L gasser, the mounts for the 3.0L require you to remove one engine mount bolt on each side. It's doable, but consider it a right of passage if you're a new at it.

All in all, however, so far I'll say great company, great customer service, great price, great product. Here's what they look like on, and a few added pics with some observations if your considering getting a set.

The transfer case skid bolts over the stock Rubicon skid, so you lose about 1/4 inch of clearance. A relatively small price to pay for how it covers up that fuel filter. That skid has to come off to change the filter.

Parts and instructions.

On the driver's side, the inner engine mount bolt is gettable with a two-foot extension and impact socket. This bolt is locked down and glued in pretty tight by the good folks in Toledo, so it takes some work to back it out. I avoided the torch and just did the little out/little back method until things got loose. You can reach this from the bottom, but it's hard to get good force on it by hand from down there.

On the passenger side, there's really no way to get the inner engine mount bolt from the top or the bottom, unless you want to remove a heck of a lot of stuff. I got things warm with a torpedo heater and then folded back the inner fender liner behind the shock tower. I kept the tire on, which limited my access, but a quarter turn at a time with some major grunting and it got there. When you put the new bolt in, it's way easier to use the same access but lay under the truck while you wrench it in.

Passenger side factory engine bolt on the left. Much longer supplied Asfir bolt on the right.

With the disclaimer that I am not a structural engineer, I will note that I was surprised that the mounting arms for the engine skid do not have any bracing on the bends. A little metal triangulating those corners seems like it would add significant strength.

One other place I was a little surprised was at the front of the engine skid. Unlike others I've seen on other engines, the "boxing" on the sides (again, I'm not an engineer) does not continue past the front mounting arm. That flat tongue underneath the front of the oil pan looks vulnerable to bending under the weight of that hefty diesel block. Still better than coming down on the pan itself.

I'm very glad to have the fuel filter protected, with only a slight loss in clearance compared to the stock transfer case and fuel tanks skids. I am willing bet, however, that those exposed bolt heads on the frame rail will take a beating.

Again, I'm very happy with this purchase. Great price, great customer service, and what looks to be a very solid product. One place I think they definitely missed the boat, however, is in not providing new bolts and slide washers for the rear mount of the engine/tranny skid plate. Yes, the factory bolts that get reused were already hanging out there; but sitting in the flat middle of the pinched end of a factory bar, those heads were at least 3/8 of an inch higher and partially protected. Here, they're hanging lower and naked at the end of the long, flat skid with nothing to protect them. I plan on replacing these captive washer bolts with something of equal strength inside a slide washer. If Asfir used a similar bolt/washer combo in the back as it does where the plate crosses under the tranny (at left), I think it would be perfect solution.

 

[John in the Woods]

The big next step was wheels and tires.

I was coming up on 50K on my 35" KO2s on the stock Ruby wheels, and since I needed new tires anyway, I worked out the math on replacing 4 of the same KO2s versus upping to a 37. After some research on here, I decided on the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs. They've got a relatively new tread design, strong sidewalls, a solid reputation on road and off. Jumping to 37s meant getting 5 instead of 4, which put the net cost increase at $1,200 compared to just replacing what I had. I was on the fence, but a Black Friday deal of $150 off from 4Wheelparts, a $100 rebate from MT on the set and a 30 percent rewards offer from my credit card brought the cost too close to walk away.

Of course, that meant new wheels too. In the fine tradition of voluntary financial idiocy, I pretended this was not an additional cost of upping to 37s, since even the 35s were a little pinched on the stock wheels and I wanted new wheels anyway. It's amazing what our inner 8-year-old can convince us makes sense sometimes. Since I was in for wheels, I went all in and grabbed a set of 5 AEV Borah wheels, 17x8.5 +25mm offset, satin black with silver protection rings from my next of kin at @Northridge4x4. I wasn't looking for an extreme look or massive poke, just a bulletproof set of wheels that looks as solid as they are. AEV is the pinnacle of that, and Northridge as always had a great price and they were at my door in just a few days.

Plenty has been said on this forum about both these tires and these wheels, and even plenty on the two of them together. All I'll note for anyone considering either is that you get what you invest in with these things. The wheels are beautifully made, packed extraordinarily well, and very smartly designed. The tires are heavy, about 80 pounds a piece (which is why I upgraded my steering dampener), but they're strong as heck and bite into everything. I've done mild snow and ice, some good mud, and a few tree trunks and rocks just to test them out, and they haven't missed a beat.

Be warned though, with that weight comes the need for a very good balance job. The original installer used beads, and they were a mess. To their credit, they stood behind their work and paid for me to have the wheels balanced at a different shop that uses adhesive weights. One wheel took 15 ounces to get balanced, but they all hum along now with no vibration or wobble.

I run the diesel, and the mpg on the 35" KO2s on Ruby wheels was 23 average, and a solid 27 on the highway (I'd see it peak up to 29 when roads were long and flat). Fuel consumption now has dropped about 2 mpgs in both categories, but it will still peak at 27 on those flat roads, particularly if the speeds stay around 60.

I will say that I'm not in love with the silver protection rings. They look strong and will definitely help keep trail rash off those wheels, but they have a little too much pop for me with the black wheels and sting gray truck. I recommend the onyx instead. I'll definitely be painting these a darker gray at some point.

My final adventure is going to be getting the spare underneath. The installer told me it would fit, but the factory tire winch head doesn't fit through the center of the wheel. I've seen a few folks on here who have done it with this wheel (even with this tire and wheel), and thanks to some above-and-beyond tips with photos from @Moriarty, I'm looking forward to getting things tucked up in there this week. I better. Otherwise, the spare eats about 75 percent of the usable bed.

 

[John in the Woods]

Last but not least for the 2022 part of the game, I picked up a used soft top from @f33d. He had it on his Mojave for one season, then had to part with the truck. It's the twill with the tinted window, and it's in great shape. He even tossed on a Spiderweb Shade as well. They're sitting in my garage now while I watch the snow fall in Upstate NY, but I'll be swapping the tops before I head to Florida after Christmas.

Score one for the "sun buggy" part of this build.

 

[John in the Woods]

Made the top switch. I found a twill top on this forum and picked it up from a great guy who had to part with his Mojave in support of fatherhood. Not only did he give me everything that goes with the top and some extra hardware he had in his garage, but something that was living in his garage sent me home with a few fistfuls of uncooked frozen french fries.

Top went on with no issues, except cleaning out the fries. I was doing this in Upstate NY in December, so I kept the top and other pieces in my house for a few days before the install. Torpedo heater took the garage from 30 to 60, and away I went.

There's plenty of info in this install, so I wont add much. The mopar instruction helped a bit, and the @Quadratec video makes it all very easy. A few observations on the install and early use ...

• Definitely do this in warm weather, or at least heat it up well. The back window was a bear when it came to snapping in the plastic tabs, even with time in the house and a heated garage.
• Front latches on the roof and mounts on the front windshield header are adjustable. My roof whistled and leaked along the header just a bit when first installed, but tightened right up with a few adjustments.
• I've done about 1,500 miles with it on now, including 1,200 from Upstate to LI to Florida. No leaks and no problems. Driving noise is about the same as the hard top to me, since most of the noise at highway speeds seems to come from the less-than-aerodynamic windshield and lightweight doors. I did notice a big difference in noise on local roads when something pulls up behind you. That tractor trailer in the rearview at the light sounds WAY closer now.

Overall, this thing is a joy. I'm in Florida now, and run top-open pretty much every day. No problems with wind on the back window. I haven't run windowless yet, but I feel that coming this weekend.

New door surrounds went on easy, almost like they were designed for it. I was surprised there's no bolt to hold the bottom back of the surround to the frame bolted to the tub, but the roof corner seems to pull them together when it's installed. No leaks or creaks on the road so far, even through a brushless car wash.

Installed indoors, but couldn't open it. If it wasn't 25 degrees out in December in Upstate NY, I'd have done it in the driveway.

Sun and cold, parking next to a JL buddy at Jones Beach on LI in January.

Sunny, warm and wide open in Vero Beach!

I have to admit I've gotten over the man-bun issue, but folded up back there it reminds me of the parachutes that pop out of dragsters after the finish line. I'm guessing with thousands of these out there if there was an issue at highway speeds, someone would be screaming. So I'll just have to get used to it, and consider it a chance to further my education into automotive aerodynamics.

 

[John in the Woods]

Thanks to tips and pics from @Moriarty, I got my 37x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT on a AEV Borah wheel under the bed. The only mod was shaving about 1/4 inch off the hitch tube, all past the weld.

I have since headed to Florida and left road salt in the past for this winter!

It's likely I'll keep a look out for an affordable bumper swing out option down the line, but this will do well for highway and most overland trails. If I'm going to try my hand at rock crawling, I'll strap it up in the bed.

 

[John in the Woods]

I can 100 percent recommend this Pet Loader collapsable staircase for your big pups. It's a little bulky, but not too bad. Solid as heck and made in the USA.

Unfortunately, the lab-shepherd mix I bought it for passed away after a sudden bought with abdominal cancer. I'm keeping the steps, however. Down the road a bit, I think I might add a Newfie to the road crew.

 

[John in the Woods]

Now in Florida and enjoying 80 degree sunshine, so it's time to get back to work.

Next up is the @KB Voodoo MAX Modular aluminum 14" rack. I got a great deal on black Friday and had it shipped here to wait for me to catch up, so I did what every good car guy does and used the savings to buy more stuff. In this case I added the KB aluminum locking storage box that goes with the rack.

I'll note that the Western NY-based company was great to work with. They're on this forum, they answered questions fast (even on a Sunday, when I didn't at all expect a response), they turned the order around quickly and got everything right. They also packed the heck out of it. Bundled in plastic, wrapped in layers of soft foam sheets, and all of that boxed or double boxed for the ride to Florida. There was not a chip or scratch on this thing when it got here.

It's also U.S. sourced and made, and that matters to me.

Installed, this thing feels rock solid; even with the brackets that allow me to continue to use the Mopar tonneau cover. It's been on the rig for a few days, and I did some sand and dirt roads to shake things around a bit. Not squeeks or rattles, and it stayed tight.

I'll be moving my recovery gear into the box and on the rack to regain the bed space, and a rooftop tent will land up there when I get a few hands to help me pick it up. A few thoughts on the install among the pics below. I'll update this after I chew up a few states in full overlanding mode later this winter/spring.

Here's what you get, minus enough packing and padding to almost fill my brother's 70-gallon trash container. Very well organized. Nothing missing. No nicks or scratches. They even send a touchup paint pen along with the obligatory stickers, although I never had to break it out of the bag. I'm willing to forgive them for labelling the parts bags "TACO MAX."

On the flip-side, KB Voodoo continues the fine tradition of Jeep accessory installation instructions that seem part helpful, and part a right of passage. There's a good parts list, but it doesn't directly match to the bags that were sent. And the picture you see here is the only visual guide you get for the rack. The instructions just say to assembled "as shown." No torque specs for the bolts, but they're stainless steel with nylon locking nuts, so I decided to keep the breaker bar in the tool bag.

In order to keep the cover out of the way during installation, I rolled it all the way to the front of the bed. That one's on me. Tight up there, there's no way to roll it out past the first mount. Conveniently, if you pop out the two bolts on each tonneau adapter brackets up front, and the front bolt on the rear bracket, you can pivot the entire rack up like lifting the hood. I don't know if I'll ever use that again, but good to know I can.

Under normal use, this is as far the the cover will roll up. That's plenty for me. I can reach everywhere in the bed from the side or back, and I was able to take a load of junk, including all the packaging this came in and a small couch, to the dump the next day with no hassles.

Here's a few shots of the finished install:

Well, almost finished. I added KB's traction board mounting brackets to the passenger side. Just waiting on the MaxTrax locking mounting pins before I hang them out there for all to see.

I checked and the brackets and boards do not interfere with rolling the cover.

Last, a few detail shots in case your thinking about buying one of these. Here's how the cover passes under the rack through the tonneau brackets. I let my rack sit as far down as the brackets would allow, then tightened them. I wanted the weight to transfer from one half of the bracket to the other by compression, and not through the tension the bolt can produce. If you wanted more room for the cover, you can bolt on the top halves more than an inch higher. The Mopar cover doesn't need the room. It slides through the rear brackets just fine.

(Worth noting that the rear offset bracket leans a little down in the back. No way to avoid that)

You definitely get a little space between the cover and the bed rail between the two brackets. You can see the light from inside the bed. I drove it in some rain, and a little water does get in there. Not much, just some running down the bedside. I'll add some adhesive weatherstripping foam to close the gaps. I'm guessing that will do the trick.

All in all, a great deal from a good company at a solid price. Installation includes a heck of a lot of tiny bolts, but enjoy the ride and you'll get there. First impressions are good. I look forward to some real-world testing.

 

[John in the Woods]

Trying out a few new toys in the driveway for the 2023 travel. I hope to mount them both for real next week, provided I can figure out a way to lift that aluminum box off the ground

 

[wachuko]

Dude!!! You are not helping me control my expenses.... damn that looks like a great setup...

Roofnest Condor Overland... What brand and model is the awning??

 

[wachuko]

Not sure if you've done much research on racks/tonneau covers, but I'm working with an Xtrusion-Overland XR1 rack mounted to a BAK Revolver hard rolling tonneau cover. So you can still seal up your bed, and mount a rack with tent and everything else.

You give me hopes that I can have my ARB Element under the Roll-N-Lock cover...

 

[Fcmalie]

You give me hopes that I can have my ARB Element under the Roll-N-Lock cover...

I took the little legs off the fridge and it fits fine now with 1/4-1/2" to spare.

 

[wachuko]

I took the little legs off the fridge and it fits fine now with 1/4-1/2" to spare.

I need to do the same and test... I know I will have to trim the lip on the end of the cover so it slides over it. But the cooler is full of beer and I can't lift it. We have been using as a beer cooler until I need it for a trip...

It serves dual purpose. As a freezer for the RV and, in the near future, as a fridge for outings in the Jeep. It was the lowest freezer/fridge that I could find.

The reason, initially, was to be able to lower the seat (to make the bed) in the RV. Works perfectly for that. So glad that it will work in the bed of the Jeep.

 

[John in the Woods]

Dude!!! You are not helping me control my expenses.... damn that looks like a great setup...

Roofnest Condor Overland... What brand and model is the awning??

That’s the OVS Nomadic 270 awning. I saw some positive reference from other forum folks, and the price is on the lighter side (as far as these go). There’s a smaller “LTE” version, but I went with the larger one. Closed up the case rides over about half the back door, but when it’s open you get 20 feet of front to rear coverage and plenty out over the gate to keep you out of the rain or sun when cooking at camp. The mounts are beefy too, although I’ll need to add some height due to my 3/4 rack. Once I get the tent up there, I’ll get that done. The pick was just a test fit and chance to check for any issues. It’s very stout.

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