Help a dummy out with offset and spacer options.

[NorthernVandal]

I admit it, when people talk -12 and -30 whatever, offset, I have no idea what that means. I am learning, so bear with me. I have a 23 Gladiator Willys with a 3.5" suspension lift and 35x12.5x17 Hankook DynaPros on factory wheels. The issue I have is at full lock, I am rubbing a bit. As I plan to rig up and do some overloading on back woods trails, I want to get this taken care of now. Question is, would spacers fix this or does that make it worse? I am ok with buying some new wheels, but have to keep the tires, because they are super expensive. What is the best option for offset wheels, and pics if you have the stance are greatly appreciated. I really dig the clean retro look of the Fifteen52 Analog HD but not sure if they have offset options.

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[Stan H]

- tire will stick out + in .

 

[Sweetums]

This was helpful for me.



Basically a positive wheel offset will suck the tire inboard towards the center of the vehicle, a negative offset will push it out and have more "poke". It seems counterintuitive, but the video explains why that is.

The offset measurement is based on more (positive) or less (negative) than dead-center in the wheel. So if the mounting surface is centered in the rim, it's a zero offset. If it's less-deep into the rim the offset is negative in millimeters - this would push the tire outboard. If the mounting surface is deeper into the wheel, the offset is positive (because it's more/deeper than center) - this will effectively suck the tire inboard.

 

[Lunentucker]

If it's rubbing at full lock, you can easily tune the lock stops to bottom out just prior to full lock.
You'll lose a tiny amount of turn radius.

Offset visualizer
https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

 

[NorthernVandal]

This makes sense, thank you for the info. What about using simple spacers? Does that help with any rubbing issues or is it wheel centric to fix the issue?

 

[Sweetums]

This makes sense, thank you for the info. What about using simple spacers? Does that help with any rubbing issues or is it wheel centric to fix the issue?

I'm typically opposed to spacers and adapters. They add additional strain to the studs, have less engagement with the wheel nuts, and can cause failures; larger adapters that bolt onto the wheel and have the wheel bolt to the adapter are even worse. You have a set of lug nuts behind the wheel that are hidden from view, then the ones you can see bolting the wheel to the spacer. It's way too easy to fall into "out of sight, out of mind" since you have to pull the wheel off to check the adapter nuts.

Also, many tire shops won't service a vehicle with spacers or adapters and different states have different laws about what sizes are even legal. It's better to just buy wheels with the correct geometry if you can.

 

[JT1]

I admit it, when people talk -12 and -30 whatever, offset, I have no idea what that means. I am learning, so bear with me. I have a 23 Gladiator Willys with a 3.5" suspension lift and 35x12.5x17 Hankook DynaPros on factory wheels. The issue I have is at full lock, I am rubbing a bit. As I plan to rig up and do some overloading on back woods trails, I want to get this taken care of now. Question is, would spacers fix this or does that make it worse? I am ok with buying some new wheels, but have to keep the tires, because they are super expensive. What is the best option for offset wheels, and pics if you have the stance are greatly appreciated. I really dig the clean retro look of the Fifteen52 Analog HD but not sure if they have offset options.

Which 3.5" lift do you have?

Stock wheels are 7.5" wide +44 offset.

 

[NorthernVandal]

Which 3.5" lift do you have?

Stock wheels are 7.5" wide +44 offset.

I have a Skyjacker 3.5" suspension lift.

 

[NorthernVandal]

That image is just a pic of the wheels I like, of course not my Gladiator. Here's mine.

 

[D_JT]

This is why I hate "offset" and prefer back spacing. I understand back spacing. I know how much 3.5" back spacing is. I have no clue how much -12mm offset is.

 

[Sweetums]

This is why I hate "offset" and prefer back spacing. I understand back spacing. I know how much 3.5" back spacing is. I have no clue how much -12mm offset is.

Stock is +44mm, so -12mm offset is 56mm more "poke" outside the fenders than stock.

 

[Stan H]

It will give you 2.5-3" of poke outside the fenders at -12 how do I know this thats what I have with 4.50 inch back space

 

[JTL21]

You can’t talk about offset without wheel width. The two go together otherwise it’s not an apples to apples comparison.
To answer the OP question, yes a spacer will solve your problem. Many people don’t like them for justifiable reasons but some people roll with them for years problem free. It kind of comes down to your use case and risk tolerance.
Stock wheels are about 5.5” backspacing I think so if you want new wheels look for something with a smaller number for backspacing. It will push the wheel outward. The smaller the backspacing the more outward the wheel.

 

[JT1]

I have a Skyjacker 3.5" suspension lift.

Ok, so this isn't a inward bent control arms will fix it issue.

The wheels you like are the stock Willys wheels. A 1.25" wheel spacer will fix all your issues. Factory wheels can accommodate a smaller spacer, there are lug pockets in the wheel mounting surface for them.

 

[Sweetums]

There are two kinds of wheel spacers. Those which have failed and caused a crash or damage, and those that will fail.

If it was a trail rig that never got driven on the street, I might consider spacers or adapters (but probably not) - but never for anything moving at highway speeds. Some insurance companies consider spacers an additional risk, this will affect your rates and may impact your coverage if the wheel spacers cause a crash and the insurance didn't know about them.

It's also an additional maintenance item, even wheel spacer/adapter manufacturers suggest removing the wheels and checking the spacer condition every 5,000 miles.

This is what a wheel spacer/adapter failure looks like.

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