HF Snatch Block Fix

[Capngeo]

I’ve got a $29 HF snatch block, yesterday while I was using it, the rope slipped between the cheeks and got boogered up. Got to looking at it and figured that there was too much slop when using a standard D shackle, which allowed the cheeks to open enough to slip the rope between. Fortunately I’ve got a good shop, so I made a spacer/retainer on the lathe…

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[Bandit’s Lair]

That’s pretty slick. I have one of those so I’ll have to watch out for this issue.

 

[BourbonRunner]

That’s pretty slick. I have one of those so I’ll have to watch out for this issue.

I've had that happen before but I don't have a machine shop at my disposal to do what he did. Pretty slick is an understatement!

(That's part of why I bought a ring, specifically the FF5. It has plastic feelers on it to keep the line against it. )

 

[Capngeo]

I've had that happen before but I don't have a machine shop at my disposal to do what he did. Pretty slick is an understatement!

(That's part of why I bought a ring, specifically the FF5. It has plastic feelers on it to keep the line against it. )

Thanks! FWIW, I don’t use a ring because there’s just too much friction loss. I measured it with a load cell…. Nearly 20%!

 

[Zachanadandy]

Thanks! FWIW, I don’t use a ring because there’s just too much friction loss. I measured it with a load cell…. Nearly 20%!

I'll take the 20% loss to not lug a heavy snatch block that can destroy the winch line if it slips. The potential friction loss is one of the reasons I run a 13.5k pound winch on the JT. Most times I won't need a double line pull. If I do I've still got 21k+ pounds of pull force after the 20% loss. And if that doesn't work, 2 rings are still lighter and take up less space than a snatch block.

 

[Capngeo]

I'll take the 20% loss to not lug a heavy snatch block that can destroy the winch line if it slips. The potential friction loss is one of the reasons I run a 13.5k pound winch on the JT. Most times I won't need a double line pull. If I do I've still got 21k+ pounds of pull force after the 20% loss. And if that doesn't work, 2 rings are still lighter and take up less space than a snatch block.

There’s also line damage with the rings…. Winch lines take a beating no matter the rigging. Even dropping your synthetic line in the dirt causes abrasions to the fibers.
All in all, I suppose they each have their advantages and disadvantages. I’m eager to try my “upgrade “ to the block to see if the trapped line problem is fixed. Better quality snatch blocks have a “boss” that keeps the line out from between the sheave and cheek. I just ordered a pair from Vevor which I’ll test with a load cell when they come in; I’ll report my findings back in this thread.

 

[Freems]

i‘ve used the same HF snatch block for years and never had an issue, even under some extreme side pulls. Did something get up inside the snatch block to cause the line to jump off? Once your set up for a pull, line in the proper locations then add a little line pressure to ensure everything is correct, then you can put a full load on the set up. I’m very interested in how this happened, so I can avoid the same.

 

[BourbonRunner]

I think having a decent fid (and the skills to use it) in your recovery kit is important because these synthetics can and will get the snot torn out of them.

 

[Freems]

I think having a decent fid (and the skills to use it) in your recovery kit is important because these synthetics can and will get the snot torn out of them.

fid, no way, that takes time, patience and to your point, skill. The stuff is so cheap out of china, I just carry a new winch line under the back seat. Used steel cable on all of my winches for years, treated them horribly, never had a failure. Switched to plastic five years ago. No failures todate, but I’m alot more aware of what can go wrong if you’re not paying attention.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

There’s also line damage with the rings…. Winch lines take a beating no matter the rigging. Even dropping your synthetic line in the dirt causes abrasions to the fibers.
All in all, I suppose they each have their advantages and disadvantages. I’m eager to try my “upgrade “ to the block to see if the trapped line problem is fixed. Better quality snatch blocks have a “boss” that keeps the line out from between the sheave and cheek. I just ordered a pair from Vevor which I’ll test with a load cell when they come in; I’ll report my findings back in this thread.

In regards to the dirt in your winch line causing abrasions, it’s a good idea to “snap” your lines every now and again. Not literally snap them in half, but snap as it pull them tight to the max quickly a few times to “snap” the dust and debris out of the fibers. For those of you who have done rigging with sheathed climbing lines you know what I’m talking about. It’s a process to keep the lines fresh before storage. I do this after dusty trail runs to try and lengthen the life of synthetic winch line. Spoil it all the way out. Let it go slightly slack without touching the ground, then give it a good hard yank to stretch it full out. Keep it out of the dirt and spool it back in.

 

[Capngeo]

i‘ve used the same HF snatch block for years and never had an issue, even under some extreme side pulls. Did something get up inside the snatch block to cause the line to jump off? Once your set up for a pull, line in the proper locations then add a little line pressure to ensure everything is correct, then you can put a full load on the set up. I’m very interested in how this happened, so I can avoid the same.

I think what happened was when I was pulling, the vehicle being recovered got traction temporarily and slacked the line; I didn't catch it out of the sheave until after it bound up. When I winch people, I always ask for them not to "help"..... They rarely honor that request.

 

[Capngeo]

In regards to the dirt in your winch line causing abrasions, it’s a good idea to “snap” your lines every now and again. Not literally snap them in half, but snap as it pull them tight to the max quickly a few times to “snap” the dust and debris out of the fibers. For those of you who have done rigging with sheathed climbing lines you know what I’m talking about. It’s a process to keep the lines fresh before storage. I do this after dusty trail runs to try and lengthen the life of synthetic winch line. Spoil it all the way out. Let it go slightly slack without touching the ground, then give it a good hard yank to stretch it full out. Keep it out of the dirt and spool it back in.

Good Advice!

 

[Capngeo]

fid, no way, that takes time, patience and to your point, skill. The stuff is so cheap out of china, I just carry a new winch line under the back seat. Used steel cable on all of my winches for years, treated them horribly, never had a failure. Switched to plastic five years ago. No failures todate, but I’m alot more aware of what can go wrong if you’re not paying attention.

RE Bold: I keep several. I splice an eye on the dead end, and use them for winch extensions; if your main winch line fails, cut the splice off and fit it to your winch!

 

[Capngeo]

Just picked up this snatch block/shackle combo off amazon. I think there is a lot of potential for rope jumping track.

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