How much snow should be on ground before using 4x4

[KurtP]

if there is snow sticking to the road to the point it doesnt sound like rain, 4x4.

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[UncleChanBlake]

It truly depends on your experience and comfort level. We currently have 8” on the ground here and depending on the road, shade, time of day, etc there is snow or ice or dry or wet at any point on the road. I generally only put it in 4wd when I absolutely have to, when I can’t get traction. Otherwise, it is 2wd for me as much as possible. I also have 160# of sand in the back. And, I learned to drive in the winter in a few feet of snow. YMMV. Just don’t be that asswipe Jeep driver who thinks he’s invincible. You aren’t. And remember, you have to brake, so don’t go faster than is safe. And lastly, turn into the skid.

 

[Scteal]

Well, this topic is like opening up a can of worms! The question is not how much snow is on the road but more like what are the road condition. Having driven most of my life in the Snow Belt, as we have snow on the ground from mid-November to late April, on average. First off, if I have traction, then no need to put it into 4h, regardless of the amount of snow on the road. Only when the wheels start to lose traction, then I will shift into 4h and I try to do this at below 40mph. Let the road conditions dictate when you need to use 4h. And remember, like others have said, stopping will be you main concern. Either you’re in 2h or 4h really doesn’t make a difference, if the tires have no traction, you’re going to slide if you try to stop quickly. The key to stopping on slippery roads is not to lock the tires up and if you need to turn while trying to stop, ease up on the braking. Also, traveling in 4h at 55mph or faster, why? If you can do 55 or faster, then do you really need 4h?

I’m no expert at winter driving but have learnt a few things over the years.

• Tires are probably the #1 consideration when driving in the snow. If you are going to be driving in the snow or snowy conditions, get a dedicated winter tire. I personally run studded winter tires. A/T or M/T are really not that great in the snow, especially when they get some mileage on them.
• Never try to engage 4h in a turn or while the wheels are slipping. Great way to end up in the ditch.
• Slush! OMG! Slow it down in slush either in 2h or 4h, slush will suck you into the ditch or center lane faster than you can blink an eye.
• Ice, remember Ice is slick and slippery, especial when the temps are around the teens up to 30 degrees. When the temps drop below -0, ice actually gets less slippery and even sticky.
• Never lock up your brakes! Even with ABS, you will have very limited control if you stomp on the brakes. Now try turning with the brakes locked up, wont happened.
• And probably the most import thing. When the roads go south, slow it down! Even though you got 4h and it’s a jeep, speed will still get you on slippery roads. Like other have said, don’t be “That Guy”.

Rant over, like I said I’m no expert driver but have learnt over the years.

 

[Gvsukids]

And now we have a tire thread. Deep siphons and tire ply are factors in tire performance in the wintertime.

 

[Blade1668]

Another part of the reason for hauling "sand bags" or what ever in bed / trunk is to pour on ice to get traction.

 

[Capt.Grumps1075]

Whats snow? Lol I'm in south east Texas never heard of such things

 

[Blade1668]

Whats snow? Lol I'm in south east Texas never heard of such things

Another reason I stayed in the south after the Army but I slipped up and moved to N. AL. where they get some snow and ice sometimes... The first time I seen it after moving here I thought WTF did I do this for. I should have moved to TX or AZ.

 

[redrider]

My opinion, based upon experience, is that most folks assume a lot about 4WD and all are not equal. If you have open diffs-good luck and call a wrecker. Once one wheel starts to slip, the other is dead weight. SOP on the Mojave front axle. A recovery sand anchor from SARCA in Oz looks to be your friend. Trac loc in the rear? Better than an open type but not my personal optimum. Electric locker ala Rubicon? Power to both when engaged, open when not and call a wrecker. This why I am not 100% sold on the JT. I want a factory installed helical gear limited slip Eaton posi trac diffy front and rear. Cannot be done with the stock housings. I had a trac loc in the YJ and was not impressed with performance. The Cherokee gets by on road OK, still not optimum. Off road traction or the lack of covers up a lot of the failings of some designs.

 

[Jason Oliver]

Since the conversation drifted from "how much snow" to "how to in snow":

Slow down.

Gradual and gentle acceleration / cornering / braking.

Newer tires are better than older.

Better to arrive later than not at all.

 

[UncleChanBlake]

And now we have a tire thread. Deep siphons and tire ply are factors in tire performance in the wintertime.

Yep. All Seasons, Snows, or All Terrains are much better in the snow than MT. On all my pickups in the past, I just saved the $$ and bought studded snows for my pickup. I'll probably do the same for my Jeep.

 

[Br4hm4]

https://4wheeldriveguide.com/how-to-drive-fast-in-4wd-high-safely-without-risking-damage/#:~:text=It is not recommended to,Lo should not exceed 10mph.

This is pretty much what I have stuck to. I have almost never needed 4WD in Colorado. I think maybe 8 times in over 20+ years. The couple of times I have used it in the Jeep was to get across an intersection and I saw some ice. I doubt I really needed to engage it.

 

[DreamedofaJeepSomeday]

Just an amusing anecdote: In 1976, my grandmother gave up driving and gave me her 1956 Chevy 210. Still had original tires from when she bought the car brand new 20 years prior. (The tires had been re-capped a couple times. For you youngsters, re-capping was common in those days, and not just for big rigs). Needless to say, the tires were dry-rotted.

So I went to my local tire dealer friend. The 1956 car had 15" rims, high profile. By then most American cars had gone to 14" rims, lower profile. Tire guy says the ONLY tires he has that will fit my Chevy are 4 Armstrong snow tires. I can have them for $20 each. Even then that was cheap.

I lived in coastal SC, got a lot of ribbing: Hey, you got 4WD in that thing, Ha, Ha. I had the last laugh. Moved out to Wyoming. The car handled very well in snow, as the snow tires on the front helped both in steering and stopping. Which was really proven when headed back in the winter, and everything from cars to big rigs were sliding off the Interstate, and I just drove around them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Sorry for the dumb question , new to 4x4. Getting first snow storm and wondering how much should be on ground before I put it in 4x4. Don’t want to mess anything up. And what’s the fastest you can drive in 4x4

All that's needed is for a wheel to slip to prevent binding.
How MUCH is impossible to say - wet snow? Dry snow? Ice under the snow? Is the pavement wet with snow on it? Is there snowPACK forming? Is the road slippery?
IF you have decent control and traction, you don't need 4x4 mode - it all depends on you, the road conditions, temperatures and so on.
But - bottom line, if you have good enough traction that at least one wheel can't slip to let things not bind up, then you don't need 4x4 mode.

I should have my daughter drive in 4wd all the time. Maybe then she wouldn't read end so many cars.

4x4 is for GOING, not STOPPING. IT makes you go and helps keep you going straight if you use it right, but for stopping? Sorry, she'll rear end MORE cars, not fewer, because she'll be going more and going faster.
Some of the truckers here laugh at SUV drivers going along in "4 wheel stupid" and "they can go but good luck stopping". You see those 4x4 drivers in the ditch ahead or causing accidents.

 

[marcwithac]

Tires!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The way I was taught, so the way I do it, streets completely covered. If you can see pavement then leave in 2WD.

I also learned how to drive in a stick shift, 1 ton dually 4x4. Never touched the brakes, downshift and feather the clutch, let the engine slow you down.

This is my first 4x4 with automatic transmission AND a manual shift option, so will be learning if I can downshift and not use the brakes or not.

I learned from professional truck drivers and my boss - a 24/7/365 wrecker operator who never had an accident in winter.......
It's physics. It's change in speed and/or direction that causes the issues. If you maintain speed and direction, the laws of physics will watch over you, but try to make a sudden move with speed or direction and momentum, the tendency of an object in motion wanting to remain in motion (and on the same trajectory) that will kill you.
If you need to slow - do it slowly. IF you need to turn, plan ahead, turn carefully and at reduced speed.
The truck drivers also told me (in the days when most things were sticks) to remain in as high a gear as possible on slick roads, especially hills. Your engine won't have the power to break the tires loose and lose traction. Don't lug it, but don't downshift and rev as that's when you suddenly break loose and spin. These dopes that slow and downshift on hills - asking for trouble.

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