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IBS reset and charging batteries

Jeep-A-Kneez

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I've been dealing with the start/stop not working for well over a year. Truck has been in the shop for over a week this time, at least the 6th or 8th trip to the shop for this issue. The last update on this was the possibilities of the ibs might be bad. The main and auxiliary batteries are said to have been replaced.

Been driving a Ram 1500 crew cab for the past week, might pulle back the the full size of the force.
 

AJ-MJ

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I read every post I could on the auto stop/start issues. I appreciate everyone's input. After replacing the Aux Battery, I finally carried my 2020 Rubicon to the dealership. As it turns out I had a loose cable. They tighten that, charged the battery and now I'm good to go.... Cost $0 since it was covered under extended warranty. After reading the invoice, I am not sure what was loose but I'm happy and the gages are happy. Now I just have to turn upside down, twist and turn and replace my TAZER.
 

Concentric_Killa

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Recently got a 23' Rubicon and I had to jump mine last week. Jumped it with my power pack and then drove it around. I had the dealer test the batteries and they were fine.

I plan on adding ring terminals and a fuse to the main battery and then adding some sort of amphenol connector with plug near the grill. I can then easily connect a battery maintainer. I don't drive the JT on a reg basis. Seems like this needs to be the standard operating procedure for these new vehicles.
 
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Lost1wing

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Circling back... I have not got around to replacing the original batteries.

It has been a month since charging both batteries independently. Start stop is still functioning like it should. I have not seen the battery charging message since the reset/recharge in February.
 

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@ShadowsPapa thank you for the detailed instructions with photos. Made it easy for me to take ESS warning light off of dashboard.
 

pressman_g

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IBS reset is very simple, especially if you are charging the batteries anyway.
Normally you should never charge by connecting below the IBS - that way it "senses" the charge going in.
But if you are going to do the whole thing, meaning charging both batteries and resetting the IBS, it won't matter.

Charge each battery independently so you can track how each acts while charging.
That means pull the ground cables off the top of the IBS - intelligent battery sensor.

Remove the IBS from the main battery negative terminal and set it aside - leaving it off disconnected for 10-15 minutes causes it to reset - to default.

Separate the two ground cables. The "thinner" black cable is the aux battery ground. You can connect to it and the main battery + to charge the aux battery since the two are tied together at the + terminal as well.

Charge the main battery as well.

Note the voltage of each right after charging, then wait a few hours and check the voltage of each again. Being disconnected, there should be no drain on them so they should maintain a full charge of around 12.7 volts (maybe better)

Then you can put it all back together again, install IBS, install ground cables.

I have more details and pics if needed.

This is the IBS -

20220329_094914.jpg


This is a 2020 where the top black cable, the smaller one, is the aux battery ground cable.
The other one, on the right in this pic, is the main battery ground.

Take both off the IBS, take one cable off the other cable, and connect battery charger negative to the smaller of the two and the positive battery charger clamp on the main battery positive - that can be used to charge the aux battery as well as the main battery.
For 2021 and later, the two black cables are reversed - Jeep made the top cable the larger one - the ground for the batteries, and the lower cable with the larger end that has the stud is the aux battery ground on 2021 and later.

JT-neg-bat-post-ibs.jpg




That's rather low for just shy of a couple of days.........
Part of the issue with batteries in general is that it takes more, longer, to charge the last few percent.
With lithium batteries as used in vehicles and other stuff the first 80% or so is pretty quick, the last 10% or so takes longer.
These follow similarly - getting up to 90% or so isn't bad, that last few percent makes me impatient as heck!
So it would just make sense that it takes longer to get them up to that top level by driving.
I just changed my aux battery after having the stop start error. After the battery change I’m still getting the error. When you reset the ibs do you need to fully disconnect it like in shadowpaps picture? Or is just disconnecting the whole harness from the battery sufficient?

I’m bummed that after changing the aux battery I still have the error
 

Mr._Bill

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I just changed my aux battery after having the stop start error. After the battery change I’m still getting the error. When you reset the ibs do you need to fully disconnect it like in shadowpaps picture? Or is just disconnecting the whole harness from the battery sufficient?

I’m bummed that after changing the aux battery I still have the error
Unless it's a premature failure of one, both batteries should be replaced at the same time. Removing the IBS from the negative post should be sufficient, but some recommend complete disconnect for at least ten minutes. Fully charge both batteries before putting it all back together.

It's not always the Aux battery that's the problem. My main battery failed first, and the Aux lasted another six months. It then sat in there dead for another six months before I got around to replacing it.

The start/stop not working error is a battery issue. Since the batteries are paralleled together all the time, you need to disconnect and separately test each one. The assumption that it is always the Aux battery is incorrect internet information that just keeps getting spread around.
 

pressman_g

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Unless it's a premature failure of one, both batteries should be replaced at the same time. Removing the IBS from the negative post should be sufficient, but some recommend complete disconnect for at least ten minutes. Fully charge both batteries before putting it all back together.

It's not always the Aux battery that's the problem. My main battery failed first, and the Aux lasted another six months. It then sat in there dead for another six months before I got around to replacing it.

The start/stop not working error is a battery issue. Since the batteries are paralleled together all the time, you need to disconnect and separately test each one. The assumption that it is always the Aux battery is incorrect internet information that just keeps getting spread around.
Ok good to know. Both my batteries came with the jeep when I got it new 3.5 years ago- so I figured the aux was failing first. I’ll replace the main now and see if that fixes things.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Ok good to know. Both my batteries came with the jeep when I got it new 3.5 years ago- so I figured the aux was failing first. I’ll replace the main now and see if that fixes things.
Yeah, there's a lot of talk out there.......... but really either one can fail first.
And at that age - it's time to replace both. These days I hear people even with other cars complaining about batteries not lasting in them.
 

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I am still on my original batteries! This last year, I have been putting a trickle charger on it when it isn't going to be used for a few days. Stop start is functioning like it should.



I was out of town this past week and I rented a 2023 JLS. I noticed that never saw the battery charging message. I got the "not ready" message for a long period after warm up. I'm wondering if they eliminated the " battery charging" message to let it say "not ready".
 

ShadowsPapa

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I am still on my original batteries! This last year, I have been putting a trickle charger on it when it isn't going to be used for a few days. Stop start is functioning like it should.



I was out of town this past week and I rented a 2023 JLS. I noticed that never saw the battery charging message. I got the "not ready" message for a long period after warm up. I'm wondering if they eliminated the " battery charging" message to let it say "not ready".
Oil temp? cat converter temp? One of the other 2 dozen things that have to line up with Venus during a blue moon?
 
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Lost1wing

Lost1wing

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Oil temp? cat converter temp? One of the other 2 dozen things that have to line up with Venus during a blue moon?
I thought about that. Not so much Cat temp or oil temp though. I think it was at a stable operating temp. Does it check battery temp through IBS? When my 2020 would shut off at a railroad crossing or a long red light, "battery charging" message would briefly come on before switching back to ready. The rental JL would briefly display "not ready". That is why I question if there was a change for the later models.

The rental was an etorque. Do you get a "battery charging" with an etorque? Just wondering.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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I thought about that. Not so much Cat temp or oil temp though. I think it was at a stable operating temp. Does it check battery temp through IBS? When my 2020 would shut off at a railroad crossing or a long red light, "battery charging" message would briefly come on before switching back to ready. The rental JL would briefly display "not ready". That is why I question if there was a change for the later models.

The rental was an etorque. Do you get a "battery charging" with an etorque? Just wondering.
Battery temperature is tracked as well - if it's too hot, it cuts the charging rate (voltage).
Etorque is a different animal completely.
 
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Lost1wing

Lost1wing

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I was an etorque that I rented. The " not ready" message was still on coolant was over 200 and oil was about the same. I didn't think about the cat or battery temp.

I probably don't need to worry about a rental. I just found it odd the I never saw battery charging msg after a long stop.
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