Induction heater for body bolts

[ShadowsPapa]

So my question is does heating the bolt up hot enough to glow red. Is that taking some temper out of the bolts? Should you just replace them?

I never get to that point. All you need to do is heat the bolt head and the heat will move to the shank and up to the threads. Doesn't take red or orange, you only need to break a Loctite bond.

Generally you rarely have to get the hardware that hot to have things come apart.
if your fighting loctite, 500f is more than enough.
Things like a nut, the beauty of induction heating is it happens fast and the nut heats way before the stud does. That temp diff is to your benifit.
Critical hardware should be replaced. Heat treatment does change if you go red hot.

Sadly, these are not nuts. They are huge very long bolts.

This is the left front just behind the front wheel - it's one of the shortest of the bolts. The rears are longer as I recall.

Making it more difficult is the fact the bolts are long, large, and that big washer dissipates much of the heat while you try to heat the bolt. It acts like a heat sink.

In this pic you can see the toothed washer that holds the bolt captive if you do totally unthread it. You can't unscrew it and have it simply fall out. Doesn't normally work that way unless you get lucky and that washer is not there, or is stuck and allows the bolt to unscrew from it.

That retainer is very similar to this - it grips the threads and the harder you try to pull, the more it grips like those Chinese finger things.

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[BearDog]

I just did mine a week ago. Used a long 3/4" drive breaker bar with a reducer to 1/2" drive. Longer the better. While it's a bit of work, they do come out. On mine, once about 2/3 out, they eased up a lot and the impact finished them. Impact zips them right back in, then just grabbed a handful with the breaker bar to tighten back up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just did mine a week ago. Used a long 3/4" drive breaker bar with a reducer to 1/2" drive. Longer the better. While it's a bit of work, they do come out. On mine, once about 2/3 out, they eased up a lot and the impact finished them. Impact zips them right back in, then just grabbed a handful with the breaker bar to tighten back up.

You were damned lucky. That's all - just plain lucky.
I've done 2 Jeeps and it's not as easy as you say yours was. Some of them literally stopped solid and you could feel the bolt flexing as you pulled.
As far as "right back in" - that's when one of mine broke - going back in.
You got really very lucky. Read about the experiences of others out there - some, even with heat, resist being screwed out enough to slip in the RSE brackets (which don't require complete removal)
The rears on my JT came loose pretty easily, the center bolts on each side weren't much worse - the fronts were totally stubborn.
I've seen others say the same - the fronts were the worst, and of those I've seen broken, most have been left front for some reason.
Similar on a JLU installing RSE power steps - they came loose, but the fronts, especially the left front, was the worst. The rears weren't too bad.
Trust me, most people just slap on a heavy breaker bar, they'll bust bolts.
It's why FCA's documentation even clearly says to heat the body bolts with an induction heater before attempting removal.

Did you see the picture of my broken bolt? Posted above - it broke going back in.
I broke it with a 15" breaker bar - not even a lot of force.
All of those with experience in these say - heat the bolt, work the bolt back and forth.
If you didn't have to do that, you need to go out and buy every lottery ticket in every state. You'll be rich enough to purchase a Jeep dealership.

 

[Idlethunder]

I just did mine a week ago. Used a long 3/4" drive breaker bar with a reducer to 1/2" drive. Longer the better. While it's a bit of work, they do come out. On mine, once about 2/3 out, they eased up a lot and the impact finished them. Impact zips them right back in, then just grabbed a handful with the breaker bar to tighten back up.

I appreciate the reply and hope once mine break loose, they move as well as yours. All I've done up until this point was use a 1/2" breaker bar with moderate force but they didn't budge. After all the horror stories I did’nt put much effort into it. I'd much rather spend a little up front than break one. I’m a mile off the closest paved road and 30 minutes from the nearest mechanic. If I break something badly enough, it can cost as much to get it to someone who can fix it as it would have to use the right tool in the first place. I’m going to minimize the risks best I can and everything I’ve seen and heard points to using a heater to break the Loctite loose. I’m having a hard time justifying $500 on one but after talking with a couple friends, there are a lot of times it would be nice to have one as an option. Here in Oklahoma if something is stuck, our first instinct is to get a bigger hammer or longer cheater pipe. I’m doing my best to stay away from that mentality with my Gladiator.

 

[Dickster]

I broke the front drives side. All others came loose but that one. I used MAP gas on the others but this one did not want to come out. I worked it back and forth with a breaker bar. I was tightening it and it sheared about half way up. This one must of been installed on a Friday before a long weekend and the guy already started his party. I cut a hole in the floor board to get to it and there was a whole bottle of loc-tite on the bolt.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I broke the front drives side. All others came loose but that one. I used MAP gas on the others but this one did not want to come out. I worked it back and forth with a breaker bar. I was tightening it and it sheared about half way up. This one must of been installed on a Friday before a long weekend and the guy already started his party. I cut a hole in the floor board to get to it and there was a whole bottle of loc-tite on the bolt.

Bingo! He just added his name to the left front bolt list.
Sounds very familiar.

I may not use it every day, but after using that inductive heater on other stuff, I don't feel it's a bad investment in a handy tool.

 

[whiteglad]

I replaced the bolts with grade 12.9 Allens and put high pressure chassis grease on the threads.

 

[Phishs]

I didnt want to spend the money on a new tool and went in without it and had success. I just took my time and used a breaker bar and did my best not to overdue it all at once. It was nerve wracking but it worked. Just my experience.

 

[Idlethunder]

I've ordered but the slider/steps and heat induction tool. The parts from RSE should be here middle of next week so hopefully I'll get them on next weekend. Thank you everyone for sharing what has or hasn't worked for you.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've ordered but the slider/steps and heat induction tool. The parts from RSE should be here middle of next week so hopefully I'll get them on next weekend. Thank you everyone for sharing what has or hasn't worked for you.

Regardless of the breaker bar, ratchet, sockets or whatever that you use - the one tool that is free, costs nothing, but will help you the most, no kidding, worth more than anything you can buy - patience and logic with these bolts.
Some find it easier than others. Some break stuff (sadly, that's me).
My wife's JLU - the bolts really weren't TOO bad, the left front was the worst, followed by right front and so on, with the rears being a bit less of a pain.
On my JT - left front was - well, that's the one I broke going back tight again. The rears were actually easy. The middle bolts - sort of between, not horrible, patience paid off.

The RSE brackets you do NOT need to remove the bolts - just loosen them.
The bracket is notched to slip around the bolt - between the bolt head and the big heavy washer. Make sure it goes between head and washer for things to work properly and the steps to sit correctly.
Sometimes you have to loosen the bolts enough to file the knurling that is just under the bolt head for the bracket to slip over. Get a good sharp narrow or tapered file and it goes fine. I didn't have to file many of the bolts, just 3 or 4 between both Jeeps I did.

This is how they need to go. I had undercoating to deal with and scrape off the washers to make sure the bracket sat against the washer and not undercoating. Likely not many will have that.
So why is that bolt out of they don't need to come out? It's the one I BROKE and decided to use it to take pictures of how the bracket should go when properly installed.

 

[cranbiz]

I'm a member of the right rear mount club. My bolt didn't break but the captive nut tore loose. The rest came out with the large breaker bar and very small back and forth movements of the bolt until the locktite came loose.

I repaired mine but don't tell my wife how it was done or I'll be permanently sleeping in the garage.

I had to cut a hole in the back sheet metal under the seat and mig weld the nut back in. Stitch weld the piece back over the nut, clean it up, paint and Gorilla tape. Fortunately for me, it's under the seat and carpet.

 

[Ronkers]

A few weeks ago Clayton had a sale so I ended up spending a weekend installing a new 2.5” Overland lift. As everyone has mentioned countless times, it rides and handles so much better now that there is no comparison to stock. I love the look and have no complaints whatsoever about the lift. It ended up gaining me over 3" which is also not a problem. What has caused a bit of trouble is that my Jeep is now too high for my wife to comfortably get in and out of. I love her dearly so naturally I’ve decided I need a set of Rockslide Engineering power steps to make her happy.

I’ve found a place to get them at a semi reasonable price but I’d like to have everything here or at least in transit when I order the steps. After spending several days combing through the forum, reading the installation guide, and watching videos, what I am worried about are the body bolts. I’ve put a socket on mine and while I didn’t get rough with them, they aren’t moving. From everything I’ve read, it is best to use a bolt induction heater to break the Loctite. There are videos of people using a torch but I’d rather get the right tool than risk a torch on my Jeep. The problem is that I’ve never used or seen one and I have no idea what to get. They look easy enough to use and after learning about them, it might keep me from needing a 4' cheater pipe when trying to loosen bolts on the tractor. I don’t need one that’s top of the line, just something that’s plenty capable of handling these 6 bolts and if I need it again in a year or two, hopefully it will still work. What I’m looking for are recommendations. I’ve read that several forum members have used them during their installs and I've found a few old Amazon links but the only one that is still for sale is this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BQJD85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V7G2SWGBP0RM0K6YCA2Y?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

If anyone has used the one above or can share a link to one they have and like, I'd sure appreciate it. They seem to start around $179 on Amazon and go up from there but if anyone has a line on one anywhere else, I’m open to suggestions.

Thank you!

I’ll add a picture of my Jeep with the new lift.

Helpful thread y’all

 

[Dickster]

I'm a member of the right rear mount club. My bolt didn't break but the captive nut tore loose. The rest came out with the large breaker bar and very small back and forth movements of the bolt until the locktite came loose.

I repaired mine but don't tell my wife how it was done or I'll be permanently sleeping in the garage.

I had to cut a hole in the back sheet metal under the seat and mig weld the nut back in. Stitch weld the piece back over the nut, clean it up, paint and Gorilla tape. Fortunately for me, it's under the seat and carpet.

Yep I cut a hole in mine it's under the carpet and no one is going to know bit me. It sucks but it is one of the only ways to repair it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Shhhhhh- don't tell anyone - torque link install on 1970 Javelin. Factory install was done with the nut bracket installed in the frame rails before attachment to the body. Once together, there's no way into the frame rails - except this ->

Unless you pull out the seat bottom, then remove the bolts holding the seat back in place, you can't tell. But it's ok - the dealer torque link install kit instructions said to do it this way.

 

[Idlethunder]

Regardless of the breaker bar, ratchet, sockets or whatever that you use - the one tool that is free, costs nothing, but will help you the most, no kidding, worth more than anything you can buy - patience and logic with these bolts.
Some find it easier than others. Some break stuff (sadly, that's me).
My wife's JLU - the bolts really weren't TOO bad, the left front was the worst, followed by right front and so on, with the rears being a bit less of a pain.
On my JT - left front was - well, that's the one I broke going back tight again. The rears were actually easy. The middle bolts - sort of between, not horrible, patience paid off.

The RSE brackets you do NOT need to remove the bolts - just loosen them.
The bracket is notched to slip around the bolt - between the bolt head and the big heavy washer. Make sure it goes between head and washer for things to work properly and the steps to sit correctly.
Sometimes you have to loosen the bolts enough to file the knurling that is just under the bolt head for the bracket to slip over. Get a good sharp narrow or tapered file and it goes fine. I didn't have to file many of the bolts, just 3 or 4 between both Jeeps I did.

This is how they need to go. I had undercoating to deal with and scrape off the washers to make sure the bracket sat against the washer and not undercoating. Likely not many will have that.
So why is that bolt out of they don't need to come out? It's the one I BROKE and decided to use it to take pictures of how the bracket should go when properly installed.

Thank you again for the advice and the pictures. I have seen the knurling that may or may not need to be filed down. Hopefully I won't need to but it won't be a problem if it does. As of now, assuming they get here next week, I'll have the whole weekend to get them installed so there will be no need to rush. So far, I've been able to install all the mods myself and that’s the way I hope to keep it. The lift kit was more work than I had anticipated but I got it done. The only issue is that the rear passenger spring squeaks but I’m planning to fix that when putting the sliders on. Getting the rears in by myself took some work and as the bottom of that side slid in, the spring isolator popped off. Rather than take it out and start again I left it off. It took a day before it started making noise but if you stand on the bumper now and bounce it sounds like there are several geese under there. Live and learn

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