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Introduction and towing question.

PlayfulBird

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Howdy PlayfulBird,

I know it costs more money, needs more maintenance, and in my case will never be driven enough to make it to the break even point but I honestly think I would be happier with the diesel. Just wish a person could strip all the epa crap off of it and make it a proper truck.

I am pretty much a computer idiot but I long ago figured out it was smarter to go on a forum and ask questions then to blindly go into something that could be a big mistake down the road. I am going to start looking at truck and do some test drives that's the only way forward at this point.

I found a dealer in Idaho who sells for under msrp, I went to the Jeep web site where you can build a truck, spent hours checking different things until I finally got all the options I wanted, so I have summited that build sheet to the dealer waiting now to see what kind of price it will come to.

The way the build web site works is pretty wonky, I had everything done, my options all picked and decided I wanted the black wheels rather then the standard silver ones, clicked on black wheels and it took the diesel drive train away, another time I clicked on the insulating head liners, that took the diesel option away same with adding the hard folding bed cover, I am ASSUMING it had to do with weight and being able to keep the towing package, can't think of any other reason. I in the end sent in a build sheet for "Sport S" that had everything I wanted that's the only model that worked for me.

Dave
Do what makes you happy.
There is crap happening everyday, if the truck makes you smile it is damn well worth it.

Love Smokin That Diesel ✌

I know that in Canada there is a complete delete kit for the adblue and stuff, no clue if that is legal were you are. There it is a greyzone, here in Germany it is a huge NO.
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Jefe1018

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Do not buy the diesel if you tow that load. I own the diesel, have towed that load, and walked away very unhappy. Great truck, bad diesel implementation.
Can you elaborate what you towed (weight, dimension etc?), where it was towed (i.e. Alaska in dead of winter or Arizona in the peak of summer and why you were unhappy?
 
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mr. cob

mr. cob

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Do not buy the diesel if you tow that load. I own the diesel, have towed that load, and walked away very unhappy. Great truck, bad diesel implementation.
Howdy Brekka,

Thanks for your reply. Information like yours will be of great help to me in making my final decision.

Dave
 

Jefe1018

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Thank you for sharing. I have towed my boat from Vegas to Houston and back (maybe 3500-4000lbs) and did not have any issues whatsoever. That includes driving up to Flagstaff at a high altitude with long steep climbs, through Albuquerque which was probably the worst stretch of it as well as those hilly roads in Texas. I wonder if there was some tune that changes along the way at the factor?
 

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mr. cob

mr. cob

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Howdy Brekka,

I do not own a Gladiator, fact is I haven't even driven one yet, but if the transmission has a way of manually locking a gear as most modern automatics do, I would "ASSUME" that locking it in a particular gear would prevent it from jumping in and out of gear.

Pick a gear that is right for the given situation, lock it, drive on, when the situation changes and allows for regular automatic use unlock it and let the truck do it's thing. But as I don't know for a fact that would have prevented the problem you described it's only my opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Dave
 

Labswine

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Howdy Brekka,

I do not own a Gladiator, fact is I haven't even driven one yet, but if the transmission has a way of manually locking a gear as most modern automatics do, I would "ASSUME" that locking it in a particular gear would prevent it from jumping in and out of gear.

Pick a gear that is right for the given situation, lock it, drive on, when the situation changes and allows for regular automatic use unlock it and let the truck do it's thing. But as I don't know for a fact that would have prevented the problem you described it's only my opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Dave
I do the manual shifty thingy every time I tow. I have a 27', 5,300 lb (loaded) travel trailer and my Overland 3.6L handles it very nicely, shifting manually. I keep the revs around 2,500 for each shift and can cruise at 65 mph in 7th at around 1,900-2,000 rpms. Going up a grade, when speed drops to upper 50's, drop back to 6th at around 2,500 rpms and when I get back to the low 60s or am cresting the grade, back to 7th. Haven't done any high altitude or severe grades yet but, if my speed drops too low, put on the flashers and everyone can go around (when safe). I look at it this way...EFF 'em if they don't like how fast I'm NOT going. I drive my own drive, not theirs. It's how you get there, not how fast you get there.
 
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mr. cob

mr. cob

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I do the manual shifty thingy every time I tow. I have a 27', 5,300 lb (loaded) travel trailer and my Overland 3.6L handles it very nicely, shifting manually. I keep the revs around 2,500 for each shift and can cruise at 65 mph in 7th at around 1,900-2,000 rpms. Going up a grade, when speed drops to upper 50's, drop back to 6th at around 2,500 rpms and when I get back to the low 60s or am cresting the grade, back to 7th. Haven't done any high altitude or severe grades yet but, if my speed drops too low, put on the flashers and everyone can go around (when safe). I look at it this way...EFF 'em if they don't like how fast I'm NOT going. I drive my own drive, not theirs. It's how you get there, not how fast you get there.
Howdy labswine,

Thanks for your detailed reply, that is the sort of information that is helpful to everyone and especially those such as myself who are trying to educate themselves before buying a new Gladiator.

Dave
 

PJZ

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Howdy All,

I have been building, racing, crashing Jeeps for 50 years but the newest one I have owned was a 1973 Jeep Commando, that was so far from stock as to be unrecognizable, I have NO experience or knowledge of the new Jeeps.

I am seriously considering buying a new Gladiator, using the Jeep build web site I finally after spending hours working with it come up with a combination that I "think" will serve my purposes.

I know it costs a lot of money and will not in my life time, I am 74, pay for itself in fuel costs but I want the diesel engine for towing use. From the research I have done it just seems like the better way to go. I have driven truck for many years and still use a Peterbilt 379, to tow my huge 45 foot long toy hauler rv trailer so I think I am well versed in knowing the difference between gas and diesel towing capabilities.

That said, I do have a serious question for those who own the Eco-diesel and it's tow package, can you tow safely and without strain a 5,000 pound trailer up a decent grade at a reasonable speed?

I have a 2,500 pound tandem axle enclosed trailer, I would load into this trailer a 2,000 pound SxS and approximately 500 pounds of gear, giving me a total of around 5,000 pounds to be towed.

I have watched videos on youtube of the gas engine pulling such a load up a grade they did not give the percentage and to hold 45mph the engine was running at 5,500 rpm in 3rd gear, this sounds like an invitation to an early drive-line failure to me, but I wasn't able to find any videos that showed how the diesel performed under similar circumstances.

So any information you can share or point me to will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Dave
Tough question since there really isn't a bad choice for you. I picked the diesel after owning a JK with the 3.6 and driving a friends JL with the 3.6. No issues there and it will do the job. The diesel drives like a different vehicle and it I find it a lot more enjoyable. That said my primary use is camping and off road not towing (still have my Ram 1500). Going to try to tow our travel trailer - 21' Lance and see what happens. If it derates then it will be a bummer, but not a deal breaker. Want to get some good mileage on it before pressure testing the system.

My opinion only, you are professional truck driver and certainly will work within the limits of the rig. I used to drive bus and we had an Eagle that would overheat constantly - learned the limits and watched the gauges to keep it cool. Many people on here manage the temps when towing successfully. If you aren't modding the truck with lift/tires even better.

Simple choice take the 3.6.
Some slight risk pick the diesel.
Either way you will enjoy the ride!
 
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mr. cob

mr. cob

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Tough question since there really isn't a bad choice for you. I picked the diesel after owning a JK with the 3.6 and driving a friends JL with the 3.6. No issues there and it will do the job. The diesel drives like a different vehicle and it I find it a lot more enjoyable. That said my primary use is camping and off road not towing (still have my Ram 1500). Going to try to tow our travel trailer - 21' Lance and see what happens. If it derates then it will be a bummer, but not a deal breaker. Want to get some good mileage on it before pressure testing the system.

My opinion only, you are professional truck driver and certainly will work within the limits of the rig. I used to drive bus and we had an Eagle that would overheat constantly - learned the limits and watched the gauges to keep it cool. Many people on here manage the temps when towing successfully. If you aren't modding the truck with lift/tires even better.

Simple choice take the 3.6.
Some slight risk pick the diesel.
Either way you will enjoy the ride!
Howdy Patrick,

Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate posts like yours, well thought out and meaningful. I do NOT plan to do anything harder then a gravel road with the Gladiator, don't need an off roader that is what the SxS is for, don't plan to add big tires, don't need them for my intended use.

For many years, decades, I played the big tire, big horse power game with true dedicated off road Jeeps, been there done that and paid dearly for the privilege have moved on, the SxS will go anywhere and at a much higher speed then any Jeep I have owned and I dare most that others own no matter how much money you throw at it.

Gauges, if you pay attention to them and drive accordingly will save you a lot of heartache and money in the long run. "IF" a person could buy the Gladiator with the V8 now being offered in the Wrangler that would make this whole topic mute, "IF" your willing to pay $75K+ which I am not.

As an example, this is the dash of my Pete, 22 gauges and everyone of them has a purpose, I can tell long before it becomes a problem if something is not right in the engine, transmission or either drive axle, fuel system, air intake system, electrical system or air system, it's ALL easily monitored BUT only if you read the gauges and drive or perform maintenance as indicated.

Jeep Gladiator Introduction and towing question. IMG_2632.JPG


Gauges, worth their weight in gold but only if you pay attention to them.

Dave
 

PJZ

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Hey Dave,
Thats a busy dash! There is a Bluetooth module on amazon with an app for extra gauges. Trying to figure that one out - just got it yesterday. Someone on the forum also sells a dashboard that might be better. To your point going to learn to use it first before upgrading.

I lurk a lot on the wrangler forum and the derating issue isn't as front and center as it is here, at least feels that way. Obviously different use of the two trucks, but same motor.

The way car prices are right now you can get a good deal via Gupton or Cummins (where I got mine) then if you aren't happy with the diesel sell it in a year and get the 3.6. They are still selling below invoice and get the Treadlightly discount too.
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