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Diesel cooling options and ideas

CrazyCooter

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Meh, i'll take my chances, can't make everyone happy.
Agreed, I'll continue idling as well! Never good for things to be shut down hot.
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rubicon4wheeler

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I got bored one afternoon and decided to grab my Dremel and do the hood vent mod to reflect what Jeep should have done (or perhaps planned to do but never actually followed through with) the diesels. I don't know how much of a difference it will make, but since I tow an Escape 19 trailer in the summer heat of California and Nevada up long Sierra Nevada grades, I figured that it certainly wouldn't hurt. Relieving air pressure under the hood means more cool air can flow through the radiator and charge air cooler, and while parked there's a ton of heat that pours through the vents, even on cold days.

Perhaps someday an aftermarket company will make a set of even-more-open vents for the Rubicon hood, but modding the stock vents is an easy, free, tasteful, and actually effective mod - unlike the S&B or Westin "scoops" that only increase underhood pressure at high air speeds, resulting in reduced airflow through the grille and increased operating temperatures.

My MetalCloak front bumper with its low-mounted winch and no grille guard bar leaves the airflow to the grille unobstructed for maximum cooling. We'll see how the Jeep does yanking our trailer around this summer.

Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas PXL_20220401_214658256
 

kilroy173

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Has anyone tried the poison spyder or similar hood louver on their non-Rubi yet? I've had one on my TJ for years and have no complaints.
 

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I got bored one afternoon and decided to grab my Dremel and do the hood vent mod to reflect what Jeep should have done (or perhaps planned to do but never actually followed through with) the diesels. I don't know how much of a difference it will make, but since I tow an Escape 19 trailer in the summer heat of California and Nevada up long Sierra Nevada grades, I figured that it certainly wouldn't hurt. Relieving air pressure under the hood means more cool air can flow through the radiator and charge air cooler, and while parked there's a ton of heat that pours through the vents, even on cold days.

Perhaps someday an aftermarket company will make a set of even-more-open vents for the Rubicon hood, but modding the stock vents is an easy, free, tasteful, and actually effective mod - unlike the S&B or Westin "scoops" that only increase underhood pressure at high air speeds, resulting in reduced airflow through the grille and increased operating temperatures.

My MetalCloak front bumper with its low-mounted winch and no grille guard bar leaves the airflow to the grille unobstructed for maximum cooling. We'll see how the Jeep does yanking our trailer around this summer.

PXL_20220401_214658256.jpg
This is on my to-do list for this weekend. Hot socal summer is going to be challenging. Already removed the engine cover and the battery side chunk of insulation. Will remove the driver side chunk when I get a new intake. really should open up some airflow across those parts. Since we are having the worst drought in history I only need to worry about sand and tumbleweed.
 

kilroy173

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This is on my to-do list for this weekend. Hot socal summer is going to be challenging. Already removed the engine cover and the battery side chunk of insulation. Will remove the driver side chunk when I get a new intake. really should open up some airflow across those parts. Since we are having the worst drought in history I only need to worry about sand and tumbleweed.
Can you elaborate on the insulation you're talking about?
 

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PJZ

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Under the cover there are two pretty big chunks of dense rubber - one next to the battery and another one partially under the intake tube.

Removed the one by the battery. There is a clip with the wire attached and a 10mm nut battery side attached to a small metal bracket in the rubber piece. everything under there is insulation wrapped as well.

Looked like you have to pull the intake tube to get the other one off and I was not wanting to start tearing everything apart.

Really should allow heat to move up and out those cut outs. probably only a couple degrees but I think we are shooting for every degree we can capture.

Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas IMG_5214
 

rubicon4wheeler

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That's a really good idea. I'll pull those insulation pieces from mine and see what sort of heat it lets out, but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't help. Anything we can do to reduce underhood pressure will mean less resistance to the inrush of air through the grille and heat exchangers.
 
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Almost

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The truth is the engine is compromised due to the front end of the JL/JT and it will never be remedied by Jeep. They intentionally left out additional radiators that are included on the Ram 1500 EcoDiesels because they just didn't fit and there was no where to put them. Jeep knew this was an issue - they just don't care or else they would have found a place for them.

I would be curious if anyone that is deleted has any overheating issues. I suspect the heat build up due to DPFs and regens don't help one bit - the EGTs are insane on these things. All this talk about adding coolers and this and that when the easiest thing to do would be to delete and remove the parts that trap and hold heat to begin with i.e. EGR cooler for example. Obviously legalities come in to play here, but I have a feeling this is the real solution here unless you want to mount some external radiators in the bed like a trophy truck.
 

PJZ

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Here is what is below the rubber insulation and the other side under the intake tube.

Agree @Almost but here in CA a full delete would probably be a big problem. Cant even get a tune that helps.

Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas IMG_5215


Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas IMG_5216
 

Brekka

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Forgot to post my recent towing experience. Recently moved due to wife's job offering her a promo to move to FL. Thankfully they did all the hard work, but wouldn't move any of my "toys". I have a 3000lb 20'x8.5" split axle enclosed cargo trailer, so I loaded up the safe and some other misc goodies like the toolbox they wouldn't take. Total weight was maybe 4500. MAYBE. Wind load is obviously high with the enclosed trailer, so I'm sure that made a difference as well. The trailer was not loaded heavy, it was basically empty to be completely honest. Though it was a little tongue heavy due to loading the gun safe a little too far forward.

Total drive from SC to FL was about 500 miles. Gladiator is on 35x12.5 Faulken MTs, but otherwise unmodified except for the SB hood scoops I bought after hearing about the diesel heat issues. Rubicon bumper, no lights or winch blocking air intake.

Route had some rolling hills early on in parts of SC, but was flat interstate driving after that. Route pictured below for reference.
Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas Screen Shot 2022-04-28 at 11.52.04 AM


The feeling of immediate regret and nervousness started the second I got on the interstate. The gladiator was hunting for gears BADLY trying to maintain 65. I try to stay 5 under when towing, and this was my first real time towing since I switched from a RAM Rebel to the Gladiator, so I was being extra cautions as I got a feel for how everything was pulling.

The gear hunting was really, really bad. I can't overstate it. It would down shift, then up shift in one second intervals, over and over and over until I either backed off or accelerated. Down, Up, Down, Up, Down, Up... you get the point. I could induce this gear hunting by putting the truck in a specific speed/rpm range, and took a video to share. I split the drive in to two days due to a late start, and the computer never learned how to overcome it, the gear hunting was present both days.


None of the rolling hills were very big, but I noticed every time I went up one, the temp gauge would climb dramatically. I didn't switch to the oil temp screen often, but saw it regularly in the 265 range at the top of hills. (It was sunny and 70-75 most of the drive). I couldn't imaging taking this truck through the actual mountains with any load at all.

My biggest concern was a FULL loss of power while merging back on to the interstate after a stop. I was starting to get low on diesel, so stopped off at a Pilot only to find they didn't have any "consumer" diesel, and the semi nozzle wouldn't fit. Truck was never turned off. I'm familar with turbo's and understand the need to cool them after load.

As I was merging back on, gaining speed, I got up to about 55MPH and got in between a couple semis, when suddenly I lose ALL ability to accelerate. Truck is in full coast mode, it won't allow any throttle input. ZERO dash notifications, warning lights, etc. No warning, no notice, temp gauge normal, but zero throttle input. I make it down to about 25MPH before I'm fully off the road, still no power, and no warning lights. Flashers on, on the side of the interstate, I take a lap just to see if something is leaking, damaged, etc, but nothing to be found. Put it back in drive and it won't do anything. I'm out of ideas to I try so I attempt the ol' "turn if off, wait a second, and turn it back on" method, and it starts right back up and drives like nothing ever happened.

That was ridiculously dangerous, no warning, and no indication of what was wrong. I have no idea if I was fully derated, or if something else went wrong. I'd think if it was a derate, it would need to cool down, but it started right back up.

I made it the rest of the trip with oil temps occasionally climbing in the 260 range, but no further power loss incidents. I have to say, this one drive made me lose all faith in this truck, I simply don't trust it. I'd never let my wife drive it now, can you imagine having that loss of power during rush hour in the city?

I dropped it off at a dealer once I was settled in and unpacked, unable to replicate, no codes. Typical dealer response. Between the gear hunting, temp issues on very small hills, and the full power loss, I'm basically done with this brand new truck unless this is solvable.
 
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NC_Overland

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Forgot to post my recent towing experience. Recently moved due to wife's job offering her a promo to move to FL. Thankfully they did all the hard work, but wouldn't move any of my "toys". I have a 3000lb 20'x8.5" split axle enclosed cargo trailer, so I loaded up the safe and some other misc goodies like the toolbox they wouldn't take. Total weight was maybe 4500. MAYBE. Wind load is obviously high with the enclosed trailer, so I'm sure that made a difference as well. The trailer was not loaded heavy, it was basically empty to be completely honest. Though it was a little tongue heavy due to loading the gun safe a little too far forward.

Total drive from SC to FL was about 500 miles. Gladiator is on 35x12.5 Faulken MTs, but otherwise unmodified except for the SB hood scoops I bought after hearing about the diesel heat issues. Rubicon bumper, no lights or winch blocking air intake.

Route had some rolling hills early on in parts of SC, but was flat interstate driving after that. Route pictured below for reference.
Screen Shot 2022-04-28 at 11.52.04 AM.png


The feeling of immediate regret and nervousness started the second I got on the interstate. The gladiator was hunting for gears BADLY trying to maintain 65. I try to stay 5 under when towing, and this was my first real time towing since I switched from a RAM Rebel to the Gladiator, so I was being extra cautions as I got a feel for how everything was pulling.

The gear hunting was really, really bad. I can't overstate it. It would down shift, then up shift in one second intervals, over and over and over until I either backed off or accelerated. Down, Up, Down, Up, Down, Up... you get the point. I could induce this gear hunting by putting the truck in a specific speed/rpm range, and took a video to share. I spit the drive in to two days due to a late start, and the computer never learned how to overcome it, the gear hunting was present both days.


None of the rolling hills were very big, but I noticed every time I went up one, the temp gauge would climb dramatically. I didn't switch to the oil temp screen often, but saw it regularly in the 265 range at the top of hills. (It was sunny and 70-75 most of the drive). I couldn't imaging taking this truck through the actual mountains with any load at all.

My biggest concern was a FULL loss of power while merging back on to the interstate after a stop. I was starting to get low on diesel, so stopped off at a Pilot only to find they didn't have any "consumer" diesel, and the semi nozzle wouldn't fit. Truck was never turned off. I'm familar with turbo's and understand the need to cool them after load.

As I was merging back on, gaining speed, I got up to about 55MPH and got in between a couple semis, when suddenly I lose ALL ability to accelerate. Truck is in full coast mode, it won't allow any throttle input. ZERO dash notifications, warning lights, etc. No warning, no notice, temp gauge normal, but zero throttle input. I make it down to about 25MPH before I'm fully off the road, still no power, and no warning lights. Flashers on, on the side of the interstate, I take a lap just to see if something is leaking, damaged, etc, but nothing to be found. Put it back in drive and it won't do anything. I'm out of ideas to I try so I attempt the ol' "turn if off, wait a second, and turn it back on" method, and it starts right back up and drives like nothing ever happened.

That was ridiculously dangerous, no warning, and no indication of what was wrong. I have no idea if I was fully derated, or if something else went wrong. I'd think if it was a derate, it would need to cool down, but it started right back up.

I made it the rest of the trip with oil temps occasionally climbing in the 260 range, but no further power loss incidents. I have to say, this one drive made me lose all faith in this truck, I simply don't trust it. I'd never let my wife drive it now, can you imagine having that loss of power during rush hour in the city?

I dropped it off at a dealer once I was settled in and unpacked, unable to replicate, no codes. Typical dealer response. Between the gear hunting, temp issues on very small hills, and the full power loss, I'm basically done with this brand new truck unless this is solvable.
That is sad. I’m sorry to hear that. I wonder how much of a difference the 35s made over the 33s? Do you know the frontal area of the trailer you were pulling?
 

Brekka

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That is sad. I’m sorry to hear that. I wonder how much of a difference the 35s made over the 33s? Do you know the frontal area of the trailer you were pulling?
I'm not sure, I just sold it since I don't need it and have nowhere to store it at the new place. It was a V shaped front, so better than the broad face on some trailers. Pic of it with my previous Rebel:
Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas tempImageKMlO6
 

NC_Overland

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I'm not sure, I just sold it since I don't need it and have nowhere to store it at the new place. It was a V shaped front, so better than the broad face on some trailers. Pic of it with my previous Rebel:
tempImageKMlO6g.jpg
V shape should have helped, but honestly I don’t know how that is calculated into it.
 

AXISJT

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Forgot to post my recent towing experience. Recently moved due to wife's job offering her a promo to move to FL. Thankfully they did all the hard work, but wouldn't move any of my "toys". I have a 3000lb 20'x8.5" split axle enclosed cargo trailer, so I loaded up the safe and some other misc goodies like the toolbox they wouldn't take. Total weight was maybe 4500. MAYBE. Wind load is obviously high with the enclosed trailer, so I'm sure that made a difference as well. The trailer was not loaded heavy, it was basically empty to be completely honest. Though it was a little tongue heavy due to loading the gun safe a little too far forward.

Total drive from SC to FL was about 500 miles. Gladiator is on 35x12.5 Faulken MTs, but otherwise unmodified except for the SB hood scoops I bought after hearing about the diesel heat issues. Rubicon bumper, no lights or winch blocking air intake.

Route had some rolling hills early on in parts of SC, but was flat interstate driving after that. Route pictured below for reference.
Screen Shot 2022-04-28 at 11.52.04 AM.png


The feeling of immediate regret and nervousness started the second I got on the interstate. The gladiator was hunting for gears BADLY trying to maintain 65. I try to stay 5 under when towing, and this was my first real time towing since I switched from a RAM Rebel to the Gladiator, so I was being extra cautions as I got a feel for how everything was pulling.

The gear hunting was really, really bad. I can't overstate it. It would down shift, then up shift in one second intervals, over and over and over until I either backed off or accelerated. Down, Up, Down, Up, Down, Up... you get the point. I could induce this gear hunting by putting the truck in a specific speed/rpm range, and took a video to share. I spit the drive in to two days due to a late start, and the computer never learned how to overcome it, the gear hunting was present both days.


None of the rolling hills were very big, but I noticed every time I went up one, the temp gauge would climb dramatically. I didn't switch to the oil temp screen often, but saw it regularly in the 265 range at the top of hills. (It was sunny and 70-75 most of the drive). I couldn't imaging taking this truck through the actual mountains with any load at all.

My biggest concern was a FULL loss of power while merging back on to the interstate after a stop. I was starting to get low on diesel, so stopped off at a Pilot only to find they didn't have any "consumer" diesel, and the semi nozzle wouldn't fit. Truck was never turned off. I'm familar with turbo's and understand the need to cool them after load.

As I was merging back on, gaining speed, I got up to about 55MPH and got in between a couple semis, when suddenly I lose ALL ability to accelerate. Truck is in full coast mode, it won't allow any throttle input. ZERO dash notifications, warning lights, etc. No warning, no notice, temp gauge normal, but zero throttle input. I make it down to about 25MPH before I'm fully off the road, still no power, and no warning lights. Flashers on, on the side of the interstate, I take a lap just to see if something is leaking, damaged, etc, but nothing to be found. Put it back in drive and it won't do anything. I'm out of ideas to I try so I attempt the ol' "turn if off, wait a second, and turn it back on" method, and it starts right back up and drives like nothing ever happened.

That was ridiculously dangerous, no warning, and no indication of what was wrong. I have no idea if I was fully derated, or if something else went wrong. I'd think if it was a derate, it would need to cool down, but it started right back up.

I made it the rest of the trip with oil temps occasionally climbing in the 260 range, but no further power loss incidents. I have to say, this one drive made me lose all faith in this truck, I simply don't trust it. I'd never let my wife drive it now, can you imagine having that loss of power during rush hour in the city?

I dropped it off at a dealer once I was settled in and unpacked, unable to replicate, no codes. Typical dealer response. Between the gear hunting, temp issues on very small hills, and the full power loss, I'm basically done with this brand new truck unless this is solvable.
With the way it was shifting gears and the full loss of power this sounds more like a computer issue rather then a derate but i could be wrong
 

Brekka

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With the way it was shifting gears and the full loss of power this sounds more like a computer issue rather then a derate but i could be wrong
Are derate events logged anywhere? That would definitely settle the loss of power issue if I could pull a log.
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