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Jeep Gladiator Creaking Noise Low Speed Turns and Articulation

Btindell84

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Help! 2020 JT with 2” Mopar lift. I get a creaking noise whenever I articulate. Speed bumps no noise if hitting perpendicular. I can reproduce the noise by depressing the brakes and turning the wheel to full lock while not moving. I also get the noise at or near full lock while moving with no brakes.
I have silicon sprayed and torqued everything I can find including tie rods and ball joints. Any thoughts?
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HoustonGobi

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We had an issue like that recently. It ended up being the steering box bolts had loosened. Tightened them up and it went away.
 

93civej1

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i had a weird noise and i found one of my swar bar links loose and moving around.
 

@californiajeeping

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Check the following:

Track bar bolts
ball joint nuts
brake caliper bolts
upper and lower control arm bolts
sway bar links
 

DocMike

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I'd double check the springs are clocked correctly too.
If you wheel a lot, you may have shifted something.
 

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Btindell84

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We had an issue like that recently. It ended up being the steering box bolts had loosened. Tightened them up and it went away.
Is there a torque spec on the gearbox bolts? Also did you tighten them from the wheel well side or the engine bay side?
 

Hootbro

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Is there a torque spec on the gearbox bolts? Also did you tighten them from the wheel well side or the engine bay side?
Frame through bolts to steering box is 99 Ft-Lbs. Pitman Arm nut is 184 Ft-Lbs.
 

HoustonGobi

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Is there a torque spec on the gearbox bolts? Also did you tighten them from the wheel well side or the engine bay side?

I didn't actually do it. Had it in at the dealer for paint corrosion work at the same time. It was still under warranty at the time.
 
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Btindell84

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I just soaped and pressure washed the entire undercarriage. It appears to have improved the squeak. We will see how long it last. Still getting popping noises when turning into full lock with the brakes applied.
 

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md_adirondacks

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I just soaped and pressure washed the entire undercarriage. It appears to have improved the squeak. We will see how long it last. Still getting popping noises when turning into full lock with the brakes applied.
I had the same problem and took it in to the dealer. They torqued down the lower ball joint nuts and that helped a LOT. Now I hear other creaking noises when articulating but from all 4 corners individually. Sounds like either all sway bar nuts could be loose a bit or bushings need greasing.
 

SkyKing

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We had an issue like that recently. It ended up being the steering box bolts had loosened. Tightened them up and it went away.
I had the same which led to the third gearbox (second black steel gearbox). The bolts were loose from the first gearbox replacement. This Also lead to damage of the sector gear.
After installation of new gearbox by Jeep, I added a SteerSmarts Sector Shaft Bearing kit. I’m hoping this helps with the multiple steering issues on this Gladiator.
 

SkyKing

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This week I installed SteerSmart YETI track bar, Griffin drag link, and tie rod. When I loosened the nuts for the tie rods, the tapered shafts dropped out of the wheel hub mounts…. Same with the right drag link ball joint…. If I’d loosened and removed the nut the tie rod would have fell to the floor. Jeep Gladiator is a 2020 with 23,000 miles. It’s been in a trail one time for a short period of time.

CHECK THE TORQUE ON ALL OF YOUR COMPONENTS.

SHAME ON JEEP …. No Excuse!!
 
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Btindell84

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Thanks everyone for continuing to post to the thread. I have bought a mechanics stethoscope for $10 and think I have isolated it to the passenger upper ball joint. So that is where I am going to start the replacement process. I’m going to go ahead and do all four joints. I presume as I start taking it apart any other grimlins will show their heads. While still under warranty I am going to do it myself and get the heavy duty, greasable ball joints so I don’t have to go through this again at 60k miles hopefully. I’ll keep you posted.
 

Rusty PW

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Thanks everyone for continuing to post to the thread. I have bought a mechanics stethoscope for $10 and think I have isolated it to the passenger upper ball joint. So that is where I am going to start the replacement process. I’m going to go ahead and do all four joints. I presume as I start taking it apart any other grimlins will show their heads. While still under warranty I am going to do it myself and get the heavy duty, greasable ball joints so I don’t have to go through this again at 60k miles hopefully. I’ll keep you posted.
What ball joints you going with?
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