Leaking (blowing!) diff fluid. Hole in axle housing?

[ShadowsPapa]

If no vibration and no shake etc..

I'm wondering what vibration and shake have to do with it? You can have bad bearings or no preload, or bearing wear with no vibrations or even noise.
Vibration/shake are from driveshaft issues.
You can have loose or worn bearings with no noise and no vibration.
I'm not saying HE DOES HAVE - just if it was mine, with these bearings, I'd look.

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[OldButStillJeeping]

I'm wondering what vibration and shake have to do with it? You can have bad bearings or no preload, or bearing wear with no vibrations or even noise.
Vibration/shake are from driveshaft issues.
You can have loose or worn bearings with no noise and no vibration.
I'm not saying HE DOES HAVE - just if it was mine, with these bearings, I'd look.

Shadows, you are getting catty. LOL

Try the seal only. Don't F with the crush sleeve. The seal is a 1 hour job. The crush sleeve is a divorce potential. Huge difference.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As I posted same time as you. OP wants to stop a leak.

He may not be as OCD or a perfectionist as you or me.

Yes, with a cause as of yet unknown.
Could be JUST the seal, but when there's miles on it, and the use he's put it through..... it's up to him.
I worked production for years........ if that thing came back and leaked again or a bearing went in 2,000 miles, it's on you.
Again, it's his to decide, not mine, yours or anyone else's.
He can do the cheap simple way, or make sure - his call.
It's not a big deal to do it either way.
When you've done dozens, I guess you take the view that - it's not at all hard.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Shadows, you are getting catty. LOL

Try the seal only. Don't F with the crush sleeve. The seal is a 1 hour job. The crush sleeve is a divorce potential. Huge difference.

LOL - really? You find it difficult? Interesting.
I'm just amazed that a couple of people think it's so difficult. Why?
It's his call to make.
I'm just laying out the options, and potentials either way.

No big deal.

***** But maybe it's no big deal in my mind because I've done so very many and was shown/trained "here's how to do it", so it's just that simple.
Maybe others have struggled with it so they find it difficult?

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

LOL - really? You find it difficult? Interesting.
I'm just amazed that a couple of people think it's so difficult. Why?
It's his call to make.
I'm just laying out the options, and potentials either way.

No big deal.

***** But maybe it's no big deal in my mind because I've done so very many and was shown/trained "here's how to do it", so it's just that simple.
Maybe others have struggled with it so they find it difficult?

Bill.

The dude wants to simply stop a leak. That's all. As far as we know....

Stop the bleeding and send him home. If the cause is more severe, deal with that later.

Be well Jeep on.

Eric

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Like I said - HIS call. I've said over and over - it's up to him.
I'm saying it again.
Not trying to talk him into anything.

He's got multiple options, depending on what he wants to check out.
And he knows that (he ain't no dummy!)
(look at what he did to the front end)

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

He's got multiple options, depending on what he wants to check out.
And he knows that (he ain't no dummy!)
(look at what he did to the front end)

Bill,

What did he do to the front end? I don't see it in the pictures.

The 'dummy' comment is not relevant. Not fixing what isn't broke is key.

Be well. Jeep on.

Eric

 

[Stan H]

Bill,

What did he do to the front end? I don't see it in the pictures.

The 'dummy' comment is not relevant. Not fixing what isn't broke is key.

Be well. Jeep on.

Eric

Extensive upgrades

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The 'dummy' comment is not relevant. Not fixing what isn't broke is key.

LOL - I guess there's no use going further, but you seem to think "the way I was told" and have done things for many years, dozens of units, is wrong.......... no one said anything was broke.

It's a means of servicing while things are apart. That's it.
I keep crush sleeves on hand for differentials I have. Yes, even extras for my AMCs

It's just what many people who have done many of differentials do.
Others not but some seem to insist it's a really complex thing.

Some of us do check things and do preventative maintenance - and since these have a double-ball bearing setup in there, one that hasn't a perfect reputation, it's what I'd do.

You said what you'd do - probably based on your experiences.
I said what I'd do - based on my experience and observations.

What's so wrong with that? You insist I am wrong and it shouldn't be done that way.
I never said your way was wrong - it's just a fast, cheap, simple way to replace only a seal
(and never figure if the preload is right if it's loose, or whatever, or consider bearing wear or condition.)
I always look at bearings, you apparently do not.

Is either wrong? You seem to think so, I don't.
One investigates, the other assumes.
I always pull differential covers, some simply drain and refill and never bother looking inside.

I like to catch things before they are a problem,
others assume the seal is simply leaking and toss in a new seal. And they've probably been fine in most cases.
You have a problem with my trained method, I don't have a problem with you doing yours however you want.
I'm laying out alternatives, you don't want those known.

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

Bill, Shadowspapa: Stangers to each other, we agree more than we don't.

But, It is not about me.

I don't think that I ever said that your way was wrong. I am just trying to save the OP and anyone else money. Just replace the seal.

I don't fix what isn't broken, if I can help it. That mentality gets more severe the older that I get.

You seem to be full tear down minded... because of your education and experience I get it.

Be well. Jeep on.

Eric

 

[WILDHOBO]

With some miles on it, and knowing that these bearings have a bad reputation, on mine, it would get the full treatment. I suspect he's got 60-some thou on it. Some wear and tear with his use.

As I understand it, the front has normal barrel bearing rollers, where it’s the rear with the ball bearings to save fuel economy, but reduce strength. Am I wrong about that? What’s the can of worms with the crush sleeve?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As I understand it, the front has normal barrel bearing rollers, where it’s the rear with the ball bearings to save fuel economy, but reduce strength. Am I wrong about that? What’s the can of worms with the crush sleeve?

I'm running our jeeps back and forth to the dealership and body shop this am.
More later, but you do not need to remove the carrier for the process. I think that's where some have their fear. Even if you did, not a big deal at all! Stripping the differential apart isn't needed. Preload is measured with a torque wrench. I prefer the beam type for this. But....... I can relay other methods later when finally off the road

 

[Stan H]

As I understand it, the front has normal barrel bearing rollers, where it’s the rear with the ball bearings to save fuel economy, but reduce strength. Am I wrong about that? What’s the can of worms with the crush sleeve?

There is actually a retro fit bearing kit out there to eliminate that rear cone front pinion roller bearing set up.

Disclaimer: I am rather confident this would require having the tolerances set back up on the pinion and wear pattern checked the whole 9 yards. So it isn't something you can just throw one thing out and another back in. The outer race for the pinion next to the drive shaft yoke is usually driven out from the inside out. So the differential would have to be pulled. .. the end

I am just saying someone makes it.
Its like the old adage ..
Build it and they will come.
Maybe someone on here has retrofitted there pinion bearings already ?
speak now or forever hold your peas.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I'm running our jeeps back and forth to the dealership and body shop this am.
More later, but you do not need to remove the carrier for the process. I think that's where some have their fear. Even if you did, not a big deal at all! Stripping the differential apart isn't needed. Preload is measured with a torque wrench. I prefer the beam type for this. But....... I can relay other methods later when finally off the road

From what I’ve seen, it sounds like I should order an inch pound beam wrench, unless you think I’ll get away with an inch pound click style, but that seems awkward.

 

[WILDHOBO]

There is actually a retro fit bearing kit out there to eliminate that rear cone front pinion roller bearing set up.

Disclaimer: I am rather confident this would require having the tolerances set back up on the pinion and wear pattern checked the whole 9 yards. So it isn't something you can just throw one thing out and another back in. The outer race for the pinion next to the drive shaft yoke is usually driven out from the inside out. So the differential would have to be pulled. .. the end

I am just saying someone makes it.
Its like the old adage ..
Build it and they will come.
Maybe someone on here has retrofitted there pinion bearings already ?
speak now or forever hold your peas.

My rear is completely redone, recently. All new bearings, seals, and shims. The one leaking is my front diff pinion. That one had roller bearings already, as far as I’m aware.

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