Learn Me Please. Triangulated 4 links.

[JT1]

Since Rusty's and RockKrawler both make a triangulated 4 link, what are the pro's and con's of each?

They are essentially the same price, Rusty's kit looks like it has to welded on, where RK says you can get away with just the U-bolts, but I'm a little skeptical.

If you have either, what are your thoughts and what you feel is the greatest benefit?

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-jt-gladiator-rear-4-link-upgrade


https://rockkrawler.com/jt-adventur...WgxvEmjiaWe4uUSpXhsE89YkkCnF_80q8qDJlwuTc_6DJ

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[Free2roam]

Talk to @TheSolarWizard he's got a badass setup

 

[JT1]

Talk to @TheSolarWizard he's got a badass setup

He's running Rock Krawler stuff right?

 

[MaximusTX]

Since Rusty's and RockKrawler both make a triangulated 4 link, what are the pro's and con's of each?

They are essentially the same price, Rusty's kit looks like it has to welded on, where RK says you can get away with just the U-bolts, but I'm a little skeptical.

If you have either, what are your thoughts and what you feel is the greatest benefit?

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-jt-gladiator-rear-4-link-upgrade


https://rockkrawler.com/jt-adventur...WgxvEmjiaWe4uUSpXhsE89YkkCnF_80q8qDJlwuTc_6DJ

I can't speak to the pros and cons of each but I am running this on mine

JT 3.0" Adventure X2 "No-Limits" Diesel Long-Arm System

I love it, it is combined with coil overs and 42s and so far there isn't any where I can't take this thing and the articulation is crazy. On the last RTI ramp I got 44inches of articulation on it.

 

[JT1]

I can't speak to the pros and cons of each but I am running this on mine

JT 3.0" Adventure X2 "No-Limits" Diesel Long-Arm System

I love it, it is combined with coil overs and 42s and so far there isn't anything I can't take this thing and the articulation is crazy. On the last RTI ramp I got 44inches of articulation on it.

It looks like either kit fixes the pinion dive and frees up the rear a bunch. Did you notice any on road improvements also?

 

[MaximusTX]

It looks like either kit fixes the pinion dive and frees up the rear a bunch. Did you notice any on road improvements also?

I actually purchased this one built. Prior to this one I had a 23 JT lifted on 35s and this one drives better and handles better than the 23 did. The 23 wondered a lot and I would have to make sure to keep it on the road. This one doesn't really wonder it stays pretty straight.

 

[JT1]

I actually purchased this one built. Prior to this one I had a 23 JT lifted on 35s and this one drives better and handles better than the 23 did. The 23 wondered a lot and I would have to make sure to keep it on the road. This one doesn't really wonder it stays pretty straight.

Is yours welded on?

 

[MaximusTX]

Is yours welded on?

yeah, I would take some pics of just the suspension for you but it is currently at the shop getting an axle seal fixed and an alignment.

 

[JT1]

yeah, I would take some pics of just the suspension for you but it is currently at the shop getting an axle seal fixed and an alignment.

No worries at all. I think I would prefer welded anyway, but that eliminates one of the big pro's the RK has over the rusty's.

I'm trying to minimize the head toss I get out here on these bad rural 2 lanes.
It almost feels like the rear of the jeep levers the front opposite corner down when you hit a big frost hump.

 

[Solo25]

No worries at all. I think I would prefer welded anyway, but that eliminates one of the big pro's the RK has over the rusty's.

I'm trying to minimize the head toss I get out here on these bad rural 2 lanes.
It almost feels like the rear of the jeep levers the front opposite corner down when you hit a big frost hump.

I think a lot of preference. RK vs Rustys. I'll be going RK on mine as last time I had some Rustys parts. They rusted and locked up as the joints, front and rear TBs. Don't feel like dealing with that on all the control arms. Rustys is a cheaper kit when you price it out by almost 400 when all 8 control arms are involved. Just the upgrade kits they are close in price. RK is a bolt on for 37s and below. Heavy wheeling on 37s or anything bigger they say to throw some weld on the ends where it hits the axle.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

He's running Rock Krawler stuff right?

Yes I have the first Rockkrawler kit now officially named U4EA (Ultra 4 based) which is only slightly different than the production version will be. I just came back from EJS.
What can I help you with?

as far as the kit, I did stuff this week that to my knowledge only one other gladiator has ever done

 

[TheSolarWizard]

No worries at all. I think I would prefer welded anyway, but that eliminates one of the big pro's the RK has over the rusty's.

I'm trying to minimize the head toss I get out here on these bad rural 2 lanes.
It almost feels like the rear of the jeep levers the front opposite corner down when you hit a big frost hump.

There is an enormous advantage in the rockkrawler kit, Rusty’s, which is an attempt to copy the Rockkrawler design, has worse geometry. I am aware of 3 Jeeps who have either pulled the brackets off the frame or have torn the frame as a result of the difference. 4 links are awesome but it comes at a cost of leverage.
A four link rear will reduce head toss but it also needs springs that work correctly with the valving of the shocks.

 

[JT1]

There is an enormous advantage in the rockkrawler kit, Rusty’s, which is an attempt to copy the Rockkrawler design, has worse geometry. I am aware of 3 Jeeps who have either pulled the brackets off the frame or have torn the frame as a result of the difference. 4 links are awesome but it comes at a cost of leverage.
A four link rear will reduce head toss but it also needs springs that work correctly with the valving of the shocks.

Currently running Clayton 3.5" rear springs, but I'm totally open to changing whatever needs to be changed.
Long term plans were to move to either king or fox 2.5s

 

[TheSolarWizard]

Currently running Clayton 3.5" rear springs, but I'm totally open to changing whatever needs to be changed.
Long term plans were to move to either king or fox 2.5s

I feel like you’d be totally thrilled with the RK setup, springs, RRD shocks and 4 link. Weigh your jeep set up for wherever you drive the most and call them. They’ll match the set

 

[darkhorse13]

I've had the RK 4 link for over 3 years with ZERO issues or complaints. I would say there are all pros and no cons to the setup. I'm bolted and welded on 37's.

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