Lights on but engine doesn’t start/turn over - single click then restarts

[cranbiz]

The Smittybilt winches are known to have switches go bad. That will disable the winch. Contact Smittybilt for a new switch.

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[GrubbyBaja]

... though, it's just couple batteries, nothing major or expensive.

Glad they replaced the batteries under warranty, but that service is not exactly inexpensive as it will bill out to $800-$900. My mom just had both batteries replaced in her JL at a dealership which cost her ~$850. Unfortunately, I'm 600 miles away from her or I would have replaced them for her and saved $400 or so.

 

[Gvsukids]

Will read up on all of it when I get it back... still there, got a video message of the tech saying he recommends front/rear diff service and transfer case service. Since it was bought used at 31k miles, I'm not sure if it has been done or if it needs it. Based on what I'm reading, I could probably ride it out a bit longer on both of those given the mileage and age. Plus, havent had any issues with traction or gears.

I've replaced my diff fluid twice in my garage.

 

[djthumper]

Update time folks... picked her up from the dealer. They swapped both main and aux, covered under warranty. Runs just like she did before. ESS now works as normal, 14V while driving then 12.4V when stopped. If I do disengage ESS every time I get in the car, will that cause issues again with aux battery?

Funny enough... fog lamps on aftermarket bumpers work now... also, I had noticed the lock button on the driver door would sometimes require 1-2-3 pushes for it to actually work. Now, it's picking up normal one touch and go (not sure if related though).

I asked for a diagnosis of the vehicle, but they said they need to bill Jeep for the service then will email me the information ... wonder if I am home free or if they still have time to argue the mods vs warranty... though, it's just couple batteries, nothing major or expensive.

Cranbiz, copy thank you - did not do either of them.

For all others, thanks for taking the time to explain things to this jeep noob... will definitely be reading up on how things work and how things are interconnected. Winch still doesn't seem to work though, that's the next fix. Remote for it seems to be charged up, lights on it work, but the switch on winch doesnt seem to active it and when I click buttons on remote, nothing happens.

Trace the connections back from the winch to see how it is connected to the battery. If it is properly set up to protect the battery system, there will be a solenoid or relay in line with the power cable. If this is the case there should be a power switch to energize the winch system. If there is nothing in line and it is direct to the battery, the problem with be with the winch.

 

[OverBrass]

The Smittybilt winches are known to have switches go bad. That will disable the winch. Contact Smittybilt for a new switch.

Unfortunately they only fix things for original owner with receipts, I’m the second.

 

[cranbiz]

Unfortunately they only fix things for original owner with receipts, I’m the second.

That sucks. Will they sell you a switch?

The other option is to pull the switch, find out it's configuration and order something close from Amazon. Once the switch is out, you can actually test it. Jump the contacts and see if the winch comes alive.

 

[kb5zcr]

Op, I would suggest that before you do anything with the winch, go to youtube and watch vids or read up on how the winch SHOULD be wired to your jeep, that way you can then check to see if yours is wired and connected properly. Learn how it SHOULD work first, then you can start and actually troubleshoot yours with some knowledge of how its supposed to work.

Good luck and keep in the loop on your progress.

P.S. The dealer is just trying to get extra money by suggesting that you service the diffs. Don't fall for it, you can check the oil levels yourself.

 

[OverBrass]

The Smittybilt winches are known to have switches go bad. That will disable the winch. Contact Smittybilt for a new switch.

I am inquiring about switch and let's see if they'll honor it. I will also do more research to trace the connection to make sure everything is correct per @djthumper and @kb5zcr recommendations.

I did quickly watch a install video and noticed they also had this blue cable - based on the comments section, it appears it's supposed to light up the logo on the wich... haven't confirmed if this is true or not and will do more research, but it does lead to the fuse box here.

 

[cranbiz]

I don't like how that wire is terminated in the TIPM. I would rather see a fuse tap used and that lead fused correctly. Between you, me and the lamp post, that wiring is a hack job.

 

[OverBrass]

I don't like how that wire is terminated in the TIPM. I would rather see a fuse tap used and that lead fused correctly. Between you, me and the lamp post, that wiring is a hack job.

Their response was: The blue wire illuminates the light on the front of the control box. It usually is wired to a fuse or headlight wire so that it only comes on with the ignition. It can be wired directly to a power source, but a fuse is always recommended.

They are also sending me a switch replacement for free. Let's hope that does it - will inspect connections prior to switch install.

 

[cranbiz]

Their response was: The blue wire illuminates the light on the front of the control box. It usually is wired to a fuse or headlight wire so that it only comes on with the ignition. It can be wired directly to a power source, but a fuse is always recommended.

They are also sending me a switch replacement for free. Let's hope that does it - will inspect connections prior to switch install.

That is good news.

What I would do with that wire is get a fuse tap and use fuse 52. That is an ignition controlled fuse and it's the one recommended by many manufacturers for an ignition con trolled source. This way, you get a solid connection, and the ability to fuse the light.

It looks to me like the installer just wrapped the wire around one of the fuse prongs and shoved it back in. OK for an emergency but not for everyday use.

 

[OverBrass]

That is good news.

What I would do with that wire is get a fuse tap and use fuse 52. That is an ignition controlled fuse and it's the one recommended by many manufacturers for an ignition con trolled source. This way, you get a solid connection, and the ability to fuse the light.

It looks to me like the installer just wrapped the wire around one of the fuse prongs and shoved it back in. OK for an emergency but not for everyday use.

Will do as you instructed and advise - the winch doesn't illuminate so clearly the rigging ain't good anyway!

 

[Lost1wing]

Will do as you instructed and advise - the winch doesn't illuminate so clearly the rigging ain't good anyway!

Be sure to get the right size fuse and type.

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