Lockers vs Eaton Truetrac

[Geoff Massa]

Hi Everyone,

If I was to add a locker to the Sport with Max Towing package what would be the cost for an electric locker? Also, what would the cost of an Eaton Truetrac be?

How do Truetrac's act when a wheel comes off the ground? Do they send power the other wheel on the ground?

Thanks,

Geoff

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[bakobobby]

In regards to tru trac more or less. It is somewhere between an open diff and fully locked but generally good enough. It seems a popular option is to go locker up front and tru trac in back.

Cost will vary depending on who does the work, where you live and what warrenty they provide. For a tru trac probably budget at least $500 for install but could be double that. For a locker it gets more expensive due to needing to run air or electric lines and install some solution for controlling them. I spent a bit over $4k for front and back ARB lockers including the air compressor. I got discounts on the parts otherwise would have been more.

I used the ARB Linx for controlling the locker solenoids. Not including that in costs because it generally controls lights and other stuff beyond the lockers.

 

[Chance575]

Eaton comes with the wiring and a switch. I believe mine were around $1400 each from quadratec. It’s locked or not, no lsd action.

 

[legacy_etu]

TrueTrac in my area costs $750 to install plus around 650$ in parts. When you lift a wheel it does not automatically transfer power; however, if you use the e brake you can get it to lock up and send power over. There’s some good YouTube videos of this in action.

if you’re regularly lifting a wheel you want a locker.

 

[Geoff Massa]

What is the difference between a Truetrac and the Anti-spin option for the Jeep. Is the Anti-spin option better than a Truetrac if a wheel comes off the ground?

Thanks,

Geoff

 

[mog]

It seems a popular option is to go locker up front and tru trac in back.

@bakobobby is spot on. The prices he listed are in line with my area (Southern Oregon).

I run that exact configuration in my C4500, Truetrac (Eaton G-80) in the back (Dana S110), and an ARB air-locker in the front (Dana 70HD). Near perfect set-up in that truck, but kind of apples to oranges compared to a Gladiator (Its GVWR is 17,500, so +/- 10K more than a JT).

IF I was going to the trouble of adding a locking diff (my Eaton G-80 is factory, ARB is aftermarket), I would go with a true locker, air or electric, especially if it was my only locker. You can save some money by installing the controller and wiring yourself, and if an air locker, install the compressor and airlines. The shop that installed my ARB gave me a really good price for the installation because running all the lines, wires, etc takes lots of time and the controllers in the cab are a pain for them. Just swapping the guts in the diff is fast for them, so the mechanics loved seeing all the connections/airlines just zip-tied by the diff waiting for them.

 

[Josh00333]

You need to give us more info to give advice. What do you want/actually do with your truck? Mall crawl? Rubicon every weekend? Snow roads in the winter?

If the budget doesn't allow it.

With the factory limited already installed. I would invest that $ into a locker for the front.

If your a rock crawler, they your going to want lockers all the way around eventually.

If your a snow driver, then honestly the factory limited is a very good option for that.

The limited slip will give you (rough guess) 75% of what a TrueTrack will and you already own it.

A TrueTrack driven correctly will give you 90% of what a locker will. But will fall on it's face for that last 10%. See the advice above on manually breaking to trick the TT into it's thing.

For all roads all conditions, personally I would do a locker front and a TT rear with a SelectTrack transmition. That would give you probably the best set up for snow, ice, wet, rocks 4x4 etc. around.

 

[chorky]

I think a lot of this really depends on your situation.

For those who TRULY see wheels off the ground - lockers
For those weekend warriors who use theirs daily - TrueTracks

Granted, my Rubi has lockers - but in all reality I would get more use out of TrueTrack. I had TrueTracks front and rear in my OBS F350 7.3 - and that sucker went places I wouldn't even dare take my Gladiator. With appropriate driving and feathering the brakes you can effectively turn TrueTracks into lockers - although if your doing hard trails on the regular, lockers would be better.

I really doubt the majority of people with Gladiators are truly putting them in situations that require lockers. Especially if they have a winch and are with friends....

TrueTrack's are cheaper, and virtually zero maintenance. Lockers require holes through the axle if not already present - and if used wrong or hard are easier to break. TrueTracks are essentially helical gear style limited slip.

 

[bakobobby]

An idea worth noting here is flex. If the rig has good flex you have more contact at the tires or less chance of tire being spun. Means you can get away with lsd/tru-trac in more situations. Hell even open diffs can do a lot more if your tires stay in contact. Put simply might be more advantageous to put a bit into flex if you already have lsd.

 

[legacy_etu]

What is the difference between a Truetrac and the Anti-spin option for the Jeep. Is the Anti-spin option better than a Truetrac if a wheel comes off the ground?

Thanks,

Geoff

Stock anti spin trac Lok is a clutch based LSD. Tru Trac is a helical gear based LSD. True Trac is Much more effective and less maintenance.

 

[bd100]

These vehicles have brake locking, where the computer automatically stops the wheel which is spinning in the air. This should help the limited slip differentials keep up with the lockers. I have yet to get a first-hand example, though.

 

[mtudb24]

@bakobobby is spot on. The prices he listed are in line with my area (Southern Oregon).

I run that exact configuration in my C4500, Truetrac (Eaton G-80) in the back (Dana S110), and an ARB air-locker in the front (Dana 70HD). Near perfect set-up in that truck, but kind of apples to oranges compared to a Gladiator (Its GVWR is 17,500, so +/- 10K more than a JT).

IF I was going to the trouble of adding a locking diff (my Eaton G-80 is factory, ARB is aftermarket), I would go with a true locker, air or electric, especially if it was my only locker. You can save some money by installing the controller and wiring yourself, and if an air locker, install the compressor and airlines. The shop that installed my ARB gave me a really good price for the installation because running all the lines, wires, etc takes lots of time and the controllers in the cab are a pain for them. Just swapping the guts in the diff is fast for them, so the mechanics loved seeing all the connections/airlines just zip-tied by the diff waiting for them.

WH\hen you say C4500, I'm confused. I assume when you say C4500 you mean GM Silverado 4500HD series truck? But C means 2wd where as K means 4wd.
Just wondering. As i do engineering for the Silverado 4500/5500/6500HD series of trucks

 

[mog]

WH\hen you say C4500, I'm confused. I assume when you say C4500 you mean GM Silverado 4500HD series truck? But C means 2wd where as K means 4wd.
Just wondering. As i do engineering for the Silverado 4500/5500/6500HD series of trucks

No the older (mine is a 2009) Kodiak/TopKick series of Medium Duty trucks. (The Red truck is a Mercedes 1017AF)

 

[pedalwrench]

Last I read Eaton wasn't making truetracs for the m210/m220

 

[SSinGA]

The TrueTrac works incredibly well, especially with the brake lock differential. Had them front and rear in my JKU and it made that jeep very capable, coupled with a well articulating suspension.

Don't think Eaton is making the Truetrac for the New JL axles but Nitro makes the Helix LSD for the rear M220. Believe retail is approx $580

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