Locking hubs.. take my money!

[D_JT]

You didn't comprehend the problem is with the vibration that is caused by the driveline constantly turning at high speeds after a suspension lift......NOT THE FAD itself. What you have suggested it to delete an existing FAD which is the problem the 2024+ JT's now have from the factory as they not longer have a FAD.

Adding the hubs stops the front drivetrain from turning.

I comprehend. A drive shaft with a double cardan would fix the vibration if there was one.

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[CrazyCooter]

I comprehend. A drive shaft with a double cardan would fix the vibration if there was one.

Actually removing the Rzeppa OE shaft and swapping the double cardan replacement shaft makes the condition worse? Especially if the joint's size is "Upgraded" to a 1350 or 1410 since the shaft speed oscillations are worse as the joint cross gets wider and I suspect the tube flexes. You see, the pinion angle can't be set properly with a 3"+ lift without compromising too much caster for most people, so the cardan shaft will most likely vibrate..

What the owners of 2024+ trucks need here is a shaft with Rzeppas at both ends like the rear, Bronco, or a WJ front. Otherwise an aftermarket or modified OE housing with the differential rotated up a few degrees could fix it, OR just install these hubs as a easy fix assuming they are strong enough??

Most people toss the OE Rzeppa shaft and "downgrade" to an aftermarket cardan shaft for more droop or overall strength that (arguably) really isn't needed? The aftermarket would implode without regular daily driver people buying these downgrades though!

 

[D_JT]

Actually removing the Rzeppa OE shaft and swapping the double cardan replacement shaft makes the condition worse? Especially if the joint's size is "Upgraded" to a 1350 or 1410 since the shaft speed oscillations are worse as the joint cross gets wider and I suspect the tube flexes. You see, the pinion angle can't be set properly with a 3"+ lift without compromising too much caster for most people, so the cardan shaft will most likely vibrate..

What the owners of 2024+ trucks need here is a shaft with Rzeppas at both ends like the rear, Bronco, or a WJ front. Otherwise an aftermarket or modified OE housing with the differential rotated up a few degrees could fix it, OR just install these hubs as a easy fix assuming they are strong enough??

Most people toss the OE Rzeppa shaft and "downgrade" to an aftermarket cardan shaft for more droop or overall strength that (arguably) really isn't needed? The aftermarket would implode without regular daily driver people buying these downgrades though!

All I know is my TJ (not JT) is lifted with tummy tuck skids and I have zero drive shaft vibrations. Both front and rear have double cardans. The rear is about as long as your forearm. I cruse my TJ 80 mph all the time. Front drive shaft spinning away. If my factory drive shafts ever go out on my JT, I will upgrade to either a Tom woods or Adams double cardan drive shaft.

 

[CrazyCooter]

All I know is my TJ (not JT) is lifted with tummy tuck skids and I have zero drive shaft vibrations. Both front and rear have double cardans. The rear is about as long as your forearm. I cruse my TJ 80 mph all the time. Front drive shaft spinning away. If my factory drive shafts ever go out on my JT, I will upgrade to either a Tom woods or Adams double cardan drive shaft.

Ya, my Peterbilt with the divider axle deleted and cardan shafts didn't virate either. That's about as relevant to this conversation as talking about a TJ huh?

 

[Jteakus]

Two problems with these locking hubs,
First, they are tiny and I don't think they will hang with the type of wheeling I do.
Second, if you break in the middle of nowhere (anywhere?) trying to source a replacement part will be next to impossible.
If you want locking hubs (I would love them) the answer is most likely a new front axle with eight lugs.

 

[AustyPosty]

These look like a good option for those without FAD on their newer Gladiators. I have no idea why Jeep got rid of the FAD for the newer gladiators... After having a JK that didnt have FAD and fought a front end vibration and eventually just had to settle for a lower caster angle than I wanted (even with a double cardan shaft), I absolutely love the FAD, running 6 degrees of caster while lifted is awesome. I think the FAD gets alot of hate from people who don't really understand it and just heard a youtube "journalist" say it was bad so now they parrot it.

 

[rharr]

These look like a good option for those without FAD on their newer Gladiators. I have no idea why Jeep got rid of the FAD for the newer gladiators... After having a JK that didnt have FAD and fought a front end vibration and eventually just had to settle for a lower caster angle than I wanted (even with a double cardan shaft), I absolutely love the FAD, running 6 degrees of caster while lifted is awesome. I think the FAD gets alot of hate from people who don't really understand it and just heard a youtube "journalist" say it was bad so now they parrot it.

I don't mind the FAD, just hate the weak housing they used to fit it. FAD deletes don't really do anything but reduce possibilities. If you keep the FAD you can run switches that let you run 2W LO without swapping transfer cases and fighting computers.

I feel like these hubs are for old timers that miss the good old days.

I'll keep my FAD, truss the axle and enjoy common parts access.

 

[Jteakus]

We did a locking hub conversion on a TJ Rubicon years ago. It converted the front unit bearing to a bolt in spindle with traditional wheel bearings. It was a great kit but used a custom stub axle and a Dana 44 hub. Stub axle broke on a trip and the owner spent the weekend in town with his wife shopping because we couldn’t source one. But, he was able to unlock the hubs and still use his Jeep!
Also, not an option on our rigs due to wheel sensors.

 

[Hootbro]

Two problems with these locking hubs,
First, they are tiny and I don't think they will hang with the type of wheeling I do.
Second, if you break in the middle of nowhere (anywhere?) trying to source a replacement part will be next to impossible.
If you want locking hubs (I would love them) the answer is most likely a new front axle with eight lugs.

He covered both of those topics at the end of the video. He did not recommend any hard wheeling and invest in a spare hub to have on hand.

 

[Jteakus]

I would suggest a stub axle as well.
I like the kit. It solves several problems. Would need to see one in person to really make a judgement.
https://therammaninc.com/products/s...WRANGLER-4X4-UNIT-BEARING-LOCKING-HUB-KIT-347

 

[Stan H]

I comprehend. A drive shaft with a double cardan would fix the vibration if there was one.

The cheapest and easiest fix is to buy a FAD actuator , remove the block off plate install the fad box and run it to the aux switches in the cab . The wiring harness does not include the FAD now. So wire into the aux switch panel or get yourself a toggle switch. Flip it and its disengaged then Flip it again and it's engaged. 4x4 & no 4x4 . Easy fix way way cheaper an less work than manual hubs which are out there now .

 

[DanJT]

There are a lot of valid points being made. But would I shell out $2500 for them?
Nah, maybe I just miss the good old days!

 

[Jteakus]

The cheapest and easiest fix is to buy a FAD actuator , remove the block off plate install the fad box and run it to the aux switches in the cab . The wiring harness does not include the FAD now. So wire into the aux switch panel or get yourself a toggle switch. Flip it and its disengaged then Flip it again and it's engaged. 4x4 & no 4x4 . Easy fix way way cheaper an less work than manual hubs which are out there now .

This

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Two problems with these locking hubs,
First, they are tiny and I don't think they will hang with the type of wheeling I do.
Second, if you break in the middle of nowhere (anywhere?) trying to source a replacement part will be next to impossible.
If you want locking hubs (I would love them) the answer is most likely a new front axle with eight lugs.

This is one part you’d definitely carry a spare.

And if you’re like our friend who had small Warn hubs, you’ll get really good at swapping them.

 

[dajudge]

You didn't comprehend the problem is with the vibration that is caused by the driveline constantly turning at high speeds after a suspension lift......NOT THE FAD itself. What you have suggested it to delete an existing FAD which is the problem the 2024+ JT's now have from the factory as they not longer have a FAD.

Adding the hubs stops the front drivetrain from turning.

Adjust the pinion angle. Vibrations from lifting a Jeep have always been a problem. One way to deal with it is to put locking hubs on it, a much easier and less expensive way is to get adjustable upper control arms and fix the actual problem.

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