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KurtP

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Edelbrock’s kit is sorted and a good option if you dont plan on turning it up too far down the road.
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Mighunter

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I actually just emailed Magnusson to get their take on where their tune is at and expressed my concerns over how this thing is going to drive using just their tune. I'm happy to share their response.
 

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I haven’t had issue with the old (Pettys) Magnuson tune, but I don’t have any basis of comparison. I’ve had the kit installed since September 2020. Just recently, having some issues - feels wimpy/gimpy, the idle isn’t right, weak starts, and the tick (which, per this thread I had attributed to fuel purge valve) has grown more noticeable. The power surge at 4K rpm is less reliable and weaker. Something ain’t right. Trying to get this back to my shop ASAP.
 

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I guess the upside is that I'm in no rush to install this thing, the Gladiator is not my daily driver, just a toy, so I guess I can wait and see how these issues are hopefully resolved. I'm not looking to smoke the tires, just want a little bit more power after I put on bigger tires etc, but I don't want to not want to drive it if the SC isn't going to work smoothly. I commend you guys for working so hard on improving its performance and I hope you are able to share your work with Mag and that the give you a free SC or something!!!
 

DAVECS1

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Magnuson is actively working the issue. Ig your wanting warranty and support, I would contact Magnuson first and ask for updates or put a ticket in. I am sharing my stuff with Magnuson and any other gear heads that do not have much hang up with warranties and modifications and are looking for that performance. I do not distribute unsafe tunes, I run these on my daily drive and I have gigs of data.

If your not comfortable getting your machine flashed, then thungs could be difficult. To be fair this is not completely a Magnuson issue. FCA dealt us all a bogus card. The stock software will work for 97% of people, but it has the potential to go down somedark holes of improper operation as it adapts. I have put adaptation limits on my software as there is no way to reset the adaptive learns. Even after an entire write, maybe the dealer can but I am not convinced.
 

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dcmdon

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Your graph in the original post shows that they are even with stock up until 2600 rpm. Is that correct?

Thanks,

Don
 

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Edelbrock’s kit is sorted and a good option if you dont plan on turning it up too far down the road.
So do you have information on the Edelbrock kit? What HP and torque are you getting? I see the price on these went up $1500 recently. I am guessing that is because they finally got their CARB cert.

How is the power distributed? To be honest, the midrange RPM band isn't the problem on the stock engine, it is the low end torque that is missing. Tired of always needing to drop 2 gears to get any acceleration.

Looks like no one has them in stock, not even themselves. Sad when the manufacturer shows SOLD OUT!
 

KurtP

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So do you have information on the Edelbrock kit? What HP and torque are you getting? I see the price on these went up $1500 recently. I am guessing that is because they finally got their CARB cert.

How is the power distributed? To be honest, the midrange RPM band isn't the problem on the stock engine, it is the low end torque that is missing. Tired of always needing to drop 2 gears to get any acceleration.

Looks like no one has them in stock, not even themselves. Sad when the manufacturer shows SOLD OUT!
I'm not running the Edelbrock kit. I had it ordered and sent it back before I installed it, because it's my intent to build the motor and turn the boost up, and the larger components of the Magnuson will start to pay dividends at higher boost pressure. The blower will run a little cooler and the intercooler will perform better.

Comparing the two out of the box, with their out of the box tunes, the power is close to the same on real-world (ie not marketing dept) dyno's. the efficiency map of the 1320 is pretty well suited to the application at 8psi and a little beyond. The E kit includes transmission tuning, and by accounts, drives really well. It adds a ton of tq everywhere from what I have seen.

Edelbrock got a jump on everyone else because they adapted their JK hardware to fit the JL and spent the rest of the time on tuning. their cooling system is fit for purpose as delivered, but you'll probably start to fight heat once you get it up above 12psi.

I think summit racing has a few in stock. It's always been around $6,500 for as long as I have been tracking it.
 

dcmdon

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Not going to lie, i'm getting worried that putting this SC on is going to be a big mistake. All these issues with the tune is freaking me out.
I agree. Its one thing is something is advertised as a tuner / tweaker kind of upgrade. But this has been marketed as a factory quality, turn-key upgrade.

I've owned and lived through the differences. And its huge. My VW had an APR tune. Total factory quality, totally turn-key. Created by engineers with tru engineering rigor.

My Subaru STi, there wasn't an APR equivalent. So I went the "tweaker / tuner" way. And it was a pain in the ass. I eventually settled on a Cobb tune that was for lower octane gas than I regularly ran. I left some power on the table, but I didn't have to continually fiddle with the car.
 

SteveInOrlando

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I'm not running the Edelbrock kit. I had it ordered and sent it back before I installed it, because it's my intent to build the motor and turn the boost up, and the larger components of the Magnuson will start to pay dividends at higher boost pressure. The blower will run a little cooler and the intercooler will perform better.

Comparing the two out of the box, with their out of the box tunes, the power is close to the same on real-world (ie not marketing dept) dyno's. the efficiency map of the 1320 is pretty well suited to the application at 8psi and a little beyond. The E kit includes transmission tuning, and by accounts, drives really well. It adds a ton of tq everywhere from what I have seen.

Edelbrock got a jump on everyone else because they adapted their JK hardware to fit the JL and spent the rest of the time on tuning. their cooling system is fit for purpose as delivered, but you'll probably start to fight heat once you get it up above 12psi.

I think summit racing has a few in stock. It's always been around $6,500 for as long as I have been tracking it.
Looking at the dyno tests Dave showed, I wonder if one of these superchargers will solve my power complaints.

I may be too used to my other vehicles.

My Wife's Cayenne completely smokes this thing at highway speeds. At 60 throttle response is immediate!
My old Nissan Frontier would pass other vehicles on the highway no problem and didn't lose speed on the overpasses.

This thing can't even hold speed on overpasses. Seriously, what do you guys that live in hills and mountains do? Just leave it in fourth?
 

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KurtP

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Looking at the dyno tests Dave showed, I wonder if one of these superchargers will solve my power complaints.

I may be too used to my other vehicles.

My Wife's Cayenne completely smokes this thing at highway speeds. At 60 throttle response is immediate!
My old Nissan Frontier would pass other vehicles on the highway no problem and didn't lose speed on the overpasses.

This thing can't even hold speed on overpasses. Seriously, what do you guys that live in hills and mountains do? Just leave it in fourth?
Its geared tall; the frontier had a 4.0 and smaller tires; the cayenne is a porsche.

Sounds like you’re loaded, though, so just write the $35k check and put a hemi in it.
 

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My latest tune will satisfy most of the horse power itch. At this point though I am not even sure a bypass valve is needed on the 3.6. it does the same thing with variable valve timing in the engine. I have spent more time mapping the throttle and airflow to mask it activating, then if I would of left it and just lowered the commanded torque tables at lower RPMs and let engine handle the torque. After digging into this the bypass really seems like an appendix on this engine. I think I finally have a killer tune. I need to get some miles on it before I release it. As the engine isnin boost most of the time and if not in boost it is riding at 100kpa as designed. Who knows I may not need to release it if Magnuson picks it up. I would be interested to see what Edlebrock did, as you can get around the airflow issue by severly limiting the commanded torque, but it does just that. The blower makes noise and boost but your not making any part throttle torque. Which is great for emissions sucks for big tires. When you floor it the ecm pulls the reigns off and you have power. At any rate my latest feels nice and linear like my 3L blower on my GT
 

KurtP

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My latest tune will satisfy most of the horse power itch. At this point though I am not even sure a bypass valve is needed on the 3.6. it does the same thing with variable valve timing in the engine. I have spent more time mapping the throttle and airflow to mask it activating, then if I would of left it and just lowered the commanded torque tables at lower RPMs and let engine handle the torque. After digging into this the bypass really seems like an appendix on this engine. I think I finally have a killer tune. I need to get some miles on it before I release it. As the engine isnin boost most of the time and if not in boost it is riding at 100kpa as designed. Who knows I may not need to release it if Magnuson picks it up. I would be interested to see what Edlebrock did, as you can get around the airflow issue by severly limiting the commanded torque, but it does just that. The blower makes noise and boost but your not making any part throttle torque. Which is great for emissions sucks for big tires. When you floor it the ecm pulls the reigns off and you have power. At any rate my latest feels nice and linear like my 3L blower on my GT
This is great news.
 

SteveInOrlando

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Its geared tall; the frontier had a 4.0 and smaller tires; the cayenne is a porsche.

Sounds like you’re loaded, though, so just write the $35k check and put a hemi in it.
lol, Nope not loaded. The Jeep cost more than the Cayenne. I was a car salesman for a while. Amazing what you learn. I rarely buy new, and you don't want to see me work a sales manager. It can get ugly. I can't count the number of times I have walked out.

The Nissan was on the same tire diameter, but you are right it did have better gearing. It also had 165K miles.

No way I am spending another 35K on this jeep. That is a quick way to throw away 30K.

Do I just need to re-gear? would that solve my power issue? Sorry, I love my Gladiator, but I would love it more with more low end torque.
 
 



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