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Tonopah01

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By the way, I did run the tank nearly dry of 87 octane and filled with 91 just before I dropped the JT off for the install. And today I did look for 93 octane but did not find it off hand at my usual stations. I agree that first gear off the line is, interesting. Comes on real strong and a light foot is needed to keep it sorta smooth. I also agree that in normal driving the stair step is sometimes apparent and a careful foot is needed to keep things smooth. But when I get on it, it just goes smoothly and darn fast. It's like there is a transition into significant boost that you feel when just driving normally so overall, the ride is not as glass smooth as it was before forced induction -- but I am not complaining at all. Just have to adjust my driving habits a bit. I will not complain about the minor side effects of more power.
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DAVECS1

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My is smoothing out the more I drive it. I think the transmission errors on the side of caution and backs off
 
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Man I knew the torque off the bottom was better, but that is rediculous. I am not a fan of the stair steps in both the tq and hp curves, but they are not horrible. My guess is it is switching tables and they were not smoothed at the transition to each other. Do you know if Vivid switched your plugs? I am usually not a huge believer in spark plugs tech, but I got these finished up Tonite and I am convinced the engine is significantly smoother and more responsive. Thank you for posting your graphs. It is very very appreciated!
20200514_202831.jpg
These plugs do make a difference in smoothing out everything. Gapped at .028-.030 in our testing was best.
 

piroman683

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I picked up my JT Rubicon today and put some miles on it. The Magnuson added about 100 rwhp (210>308) and about 80fps of torque throughout much of the rev range. The truck drives smoothly and the transmission shifts flawlessly. And, yes, it is a whole new driving experience. Power comes on low in the revs (1800-2000) and builds very quickly thereafter. I am really liking it. Vivid will be posting a video in a couple of weeks and I will post a link to it here.
dyno.jpeg
man this is great!!
 

DAVECS1

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These plugs do make a difference in smoothing out everything. Gapped at .028-.030 in our testing was best.
If you were close I would give a Charley Horse. I gapped mine all at 35. Getting to them is not the most pleasant, task so they will stay like that for now lol!
 

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DAVECS1

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The more I look at the dyno graph, the more I think I understand why first gear is they way it is. With a 50% gain in torque from the word go the transmission needs to be at its best holding capacity. The higher the RPM the better it will hold as the pump pressures are higher. So my guess is the clutch commands are short time and high pressure with a hold in first gear to get the rpms up. This will help the durability of the trans. So it is a little spirited off the line, I mean hey we did supercharge it! My guess is the centrifugal offerings do not offer this dramatic torque rise in the lower RPMs, so there shifting seems more sorted out, when really, they did not need to mess with the trans tuning because the power was not an issue.
 

piroman683

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It will be interesting to see the curves on a manual trans, I dont know how the dyno process works when running an auto vs manual, do you keep the manual in the 1:1 gear (4th gear), then just run WOT?
 

itsdapk

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The more I look at the dyno graph, the more I think I understand why first gear is they way it is. With a 50% gain in torque from the word go the transmission needs to be at its best holding capacity. The higher the RPM the better it will hold as the pump pressures are higher. So my guess is the clutch commands are short time and high pressure with a hold in first gear to get the rpms up. This will help the durability of the trans. So it is a little spirited off the line, I mean hey we did supercharge it! My guess is the centrifugal offerings do not offer this dramatic torque rise in the lower RPMs, so there shifting seems more sorted out, when really, they did not need to mess with the trans tuning because the power was not an issue.
Some centrifugals like the Hamburger's kit are linear and still drive like stock. Roots are either on or off. You can pull out into traffic with 1-2 lbs of boost smoothly vs on like a light switch like a roots. It's all in your preference though.
 

DAVECS1

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Most all of my positive displacement superchargers have been smooth. I think the Magnuson or Petty intentionally gave this transmission tune a bit of a jump to keep things in check with the large torque gains off idle. The 3.0L I have in my manual mustang is smooth like butter and is a pleasure to drive on the track.

20200115_074619.jpg
 

DAVECS1

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It will be interesting to see the curves on a manual trans, I dont know how the dyno process works when running an auto vs manual, do you keep the manual in the 1:1 gear (4th gear), then just run WOT?
That is the way I would run a roller dyno, sometimes RPM prohibits you from doing a 1 to 1 gear. On our gladiator the procedure should be just as you stated. I think this kit on a manual would be pretty nice. I have not wrapped my head around off roading with a manual though lol. I know the initiated swear it is the way to go. If I am on the track I am the same way, but off road I feel li,e I have 101 things going on I dont need gears too!
 

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LeftCoast32

LeftCoast32

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Some centrifugals like the Hamburger's kit are linear and still drive like stock. Roots are either on or off. You can pull out into traffic with 1-2 lbs of boost smoothly vs on like a light switch like a roots. It's all in your preference though.
Roots are not an on/off switch with regard to power. The dyno is done at full throttle obviously so it represents roots style full boost and torque from off idle to redline unlike a centri. Centris need rpm to make boost so they lag on torque and you can feel that driving it. Magnuson uses a bypass valve that equalizes intake pressure when not at full throttle (under vacuum). This allows great mileage and drivability when not in boost.
 

DAVECS1

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Roots are not an on/off switch with regard to power. The dyno is done at full throttle obviously so it represents roots style full boost and torque from off idle to redline unlike a centri. Centris need rpm to make boost so they lag on torque and you can feel that driving it. Magnuson uses a bypass valve that equalizes intake pressure when not at full throttle (under vacuum). This allows great mileage and drivability when not in boost.
Unless you need to maintain your transmission because your power adder is so damn cool it makes power through out the whole rev range lol! Then we shift in to first early and hang them high every chance we get :)
 

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I know it’s a dumb question but what kind of MPG are you getting? just curious
 

Tonopah01

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I sqeezed 19mpg out of it while being very light on the accelerator and keeping rpm as low as I could. Normal driving looks like around 16mpg -- which is similar to what I got before forced induction. I have not put enough miles on it yet though to be really sure. The issue is that going from 0 to normal driving speed is just plain faster with the supercharger and it's hard to avoid enjoying that. I assume that the supercharger works by not only providing more air but also providing more fuel too, so it is not really a recipe for increased gas mileage.
 

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Several of you guys who have installed the magnuson, are you using the tune they provided or custom tune?
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