j.o.y.ride
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- 20 Gladiator Overland
What shocks?
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This.Sounds to me like a suspension issue that is showing up due to the added weight of the wheels. Improving the suspension should do the trick.
i didnt take the time to read the replies, because the vast majority of people here have no fucking clue what they are doing. but here is your answerI have a 2021 JT Sport with 37”x12.5” ko2s on 17” rims
When I’m on the highway and hit a bump in the road the entire cab starts rocking back and forth so hard that the traction control turns on and I have to slam on the breaks to get it to calm down. It feels like the truck is going to flip over.
I have the 2.5” skyjacker spacer kit installed on it, but it only started doing this after I put 37s on. It drove fine with 33s on the same rims and lift.
Any idea what else could cause this excessive body sway/cab shaking?
Well if you spent less time being aggressive and did read you'd see that most of us agreed he needed suspension support for the 37s.i didnt take the time to read the replies, because the vast majority of people here have no fucking clue what they are doing. but here is your answer
37’s wander more. They just do. And they stress the steering components. You’ll get a ton of people that want to argue with me, but you cant do a budget build and drive 37’s like a stock truck.
if you want 37’s, here is your MINIMUM requirements to have it drive right over the long term. This isn the way I would (or did) build my truck. Its the MINIMUM. And peopel who say less is fine dont have sufficient experience or feel to have an informed opinion.
-adjustable lower control arms. You MUST get caster to 6°. Period.
-upgraded drag link
-upgraded tie rod
-upgraded steering box or shaft brace
-upgraded ball joints
-end links
-re align the truck to .1 toe in and the afore mentioned caster. Make sure your other angles are in spec.
thats the bare minimum to just get the truck to drive straight and be reliable. It is still far from optimized. The better answer is upgrade the dampers, or better yet the springs and the dampers.
there’s no $250 option to run 37’s. Thats just the way it Is.
No, it didn't. It may have made things feel better but it "fixed" nothing. You still had major issues with your steering/suspension.I used to get that on my '95 Cherokee, it ended up being the steering stabilizer.
Dude, I would get it home and retorque all suspension bolts to spec and put a witness mark on them with a paint pen for easy future monitoring. I don't know of you put your lift on or a shop, but I would not go back to the shop if that is the case. You can use the mopar lift instructions for the torque specs and wrench/socket sizes. The lower control arms will be the most difficult (195 ft. lb, iirc).Did another look under my Jeep and found that the rear track bar is missing the bolt to the frame. I think it is a M14, but I'm not sure about the length. Going to throw a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt in there to hold it together until I can get the OEM bolt and nut.
Sounds to me like the shop didn't properly torque parts after the lift - and installing such a lift without at least discussing the lower control arms to get caster back in line - seems a bit like they missed the boat. Working on Jeeps and knowing what you are doing are too often two different things.I had a local shop put it on that was recommended by a friend who said the shop owner worked on jeeps. I decided I wouldn't go back to them last week when they told me I had to replace my upper control arms if I wanted to upgrade ball joints and that I couldn't supply my own parts.
Now that its all bolted together it rides great. I have no complaints from the lift creating bad geometry or anything. I'll be upgrading to a more complete kit in the future but right now the lift/stock suspension is handling the 37s great.