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techteacher

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On the topic of driveshafts....while I await my 1310 how normal looking is this? Looks like it would bind up at the tcase with any down motion.

Control arms measure out to spec but haven't taken to alignment shop yet. Want to hit the trail a bit this weekend...nothing major that would go full droop.

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I went out on an easy trail with the stock front driveshaft and didn't do much drooping on the front driver's tire and still managed to tear the boot and put some dents in the metal part of the joint at the transfer case. The trail I went on was basically a dirt road with some small areas washed out.
 

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@Metalcloak What do we do if we want to preserve the front drive shaft? Purchase shocks that does not allow the drive shaft to droop so low? If so, what is the max extended length we should consider when purchasing front shocks?
 

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@Metalcloak What do we do if we want to preserve the front drive shaft? Purchase shocks that does not allow the drive shaft to droop so low? If so, what is the max extended length we should consider when purchasing front shocks?
You don't want to rely on shorter shock lengths to limit droop; get limiting straps until you can upgrade the driveshaft.
 

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You don't want to rely on shorter shock lengths to limit droop; get limiting straps until you can upgrade the driveshaft.
What are the measurements when using limiting straps?

What part of Jeep's suspension system is responsible for limiting droop? I thought it was the shocks? Hence my question of max extended length of shocks to allow for clearance of our stock front drive shaft. If it is not the Front shock, then what is?

I have a JTR on 37s. I want to lift my rig as I do occasional off-roading. I currently have a 1.5" Teraflex leveling kit on now. I do want more clearance and articulation for the trails I do... and intend to do. However, by no means will my JTR be used as a hard core rock crawler. That is what a Wrangler is for. But I do want my JTR do be a bit more capable.
 

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On the topic of driveshafts....while I await my 1310 how normal looking is this? Looks like it would bind up at the tcase with any down motion.

Control arms measure out to spec but haven't taken to alignment shop yet. Want to hit the trail a bit this weekend...nothing major that would go full droop.

Jeep Gladiator Metalcloak lift PXL_20201105_183600325~2


Jeep Gladiator Metalcloak lift PXL_20201105_183600325~2
You should checkout a local shop in your area. I ended up getting 1350 for the price of a 1310. Put the money back into your community pocket. Just my opinion. I got front and rear 1350 installed for 1300 bucks.
 

jurfie

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What part of Jeep's suspension system is responsible for limiting droop? I thought it was the shocks? Hence my question of max extended length of shocks to allow for clearance of our stock front drive shaft. If it is not the Front shock, then what is?
Actually, I had a brain fart. Limiting straps are to keep your springs from unseating, which won’t happen with shorter shocks than recommended.

I’ll shut up now. :lipssealed:
 

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You should checkout a local shop in your area. I ended up getting 1350 for the price of a 1310. Put the money back into your community pocket. Just my opinion. I got front and rear 1350 installed for 1300 bucks.
I have a shop doing gears, axle shafts, and driveshafts. Tried to get the two installations timed closer together, but Metal cloak shipped fast and I had a nice day to knock out the install.
 

techteacher

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@Metalcloak What do we do if we want to preserve the front drive shaft? Purchase shocks that does not allow the drive shaft to droop so low? If so, what is the max extended length we should consider when purchasing front shocks?
Saw this on another thread here....

@WillysJeepGladiator said:
"I looked everywhere to find at what point the front driveshaft needs to be swapped out when lifting the Gladiator and why, and couldnt find a hard answer anywhere. So I installed the lift and took my own measurements.
If your front shocks are longer than 28.5”, the front driveshaft will contact the crossmember and t-case housing when extending the driver side. The passenger side can flex 32+ inches with the stock driveshaft.
So there you go. If your front shock’s extended length is 28.5” or greater and you plan on off-roading your Jeep, you will need a new front driveshaft."
 

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Saw this on another thread here....

@WillysJeepGladiator said:
"I looked everywhere to find at what point the front driveshaft needs to be swapped out when lifting the Gladiator and why, and couldnt find a hard answer anywhere. So I installed the lift and took my own measurements.
If your front shocks are longer than 28.5”, the front driveshaft will contact the crossmember and t-case housing when extending the driver side. The passenger side can flex 32+ inches with the stock driveshaft.
So there you go. If your front shock’s extended length is 28.5” or greater and you plan on off-roading your Jeep, you will need a new front driveshaft."
Sounds good to me. Thank you very much.
 

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Anyone know of any coupon codes that works?

I was at Jeep Jam Myrtle Beach 2 weeks ago and was given a code by a Metalcloak staff for 10% off any purchase on their website. Unfortunately I forgot it because I was sure I was going with Rockkrawler.
 

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Brake line extensions are the last thing I need to bolt up - I've never bled brakes before. I've got the little kit and have seen a few youtube videos. Any tricks or pitfalls to be aware of? Seems straightforward - hook up the tube/container thing - pump the brakes - release the bleeder and let the air out looking for bubbles - don't let the reservoir go empty - start passenger rear and end at driver front. Is that it?
 

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Brake line extensions are the last thing I need to bolt up - I've never bled brakes before. I've got the little kit and have seen a few youtube videos. Any tricks or pitfalls to be aware of? Seems straightforward - hook up the tube/container thing - pump the brakes - release the bleeder and let the air out looking for bubbles - don't let the reservoir go empty - start passenger rear and end at driver front. Is that it?
One person job if you buy the speed bleeders shown bere:
 

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Anyone know how to fix the pitch/roll being off after the lift? Uconnect is stating that my Jeep has a 5 degree pitch and 1 degree roll on leveled ground.
 

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A couple of my arms had some similar marring in few spots.. forget who I was speaking with out there at MC (before I ordered), we were talking about their zinc coating treatment process, and whoever it was said something about how it was possible for this to happen during one of their tooling processes, but not to worry, so when I saw a few places like that in the finish I already had a heads up - they assured me even in areas like that that they basically would NOT rust. Hopefully that's the case.
The zink isn't coating, the arms are made of zinc. The gold is a coating and will wear overtime.
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