Mojave Lift Options

[yoda13]

for the Mojave all a lift does (if keep stock shocks which is ideal) is add a little ground clearance and allow for bigger than 37's. It is not increase wheel travel so it will not really change how it rips in the desert (unless you add larger tires), but it will help in the crawling areas.

the only honest way to improve on the mojave's suspension is to increase wheel travel to 11in minimum in front and rear while using FOX's 2.5 DSC's. the Mojave shocks go for about $1,000 each from Mopar, and the DSC's go for about $750. (i'd also add rear IFP bump stops from FOX) - now the cost is a wash, but you have a ton of more travel. Just be mindful which springs you run. you need firm for desert, softer for crawling.

The internal bypass of the Mojave, while nice, are not tuneable and are actually a smaller diameter shock piston than the 2.5 DSC's, meaning less dampening even though the IBP (internal bypass) firms dampening as compression increases (and helps with rebound).

I was actually under the impression that there weren’t any aftermarket shocks available for the Mojave at the moment. That’s good to know. I have no plans to change mine, but options are always good to have!

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[piroman683]

I was actually under the impression that there weren’t any aftermarket shocks available for the Mojave at the moment. That’s good to know. I have no plans to change mine, but options are always good to have!

Fox shocks here: https://www.ridefox.com/subhome.php?m=truck&make=Jeep&model=Gladiator+JT&year=2020&position=ALL

For an upgrade you have 2 options the 3.0 internal bypass or the 2.5 DSC. both would have the same piston diameter. However, the DSC's have more available lengths and when you line up shock travel between what is offered the best bet is 2.5 for a 4in lift. For example the rear shock for a 4in lift has a 12in stroke vs. the 3.0 shock for same lift height which is 9.4in stroke. I spent a lot of time chasing FOX for answers but got nothing.

 

[yoda13]

Fox shocks here: https://www.ridefox.com/subhome.php?m=truck&make=Jeep&model=Gladiator+JT&year=2020&position=ALL

For an upgrade you have 2 options the 3.0 internal bypass or the 2.5 DSC. both would have the same piston diameter. However, the DSC's have more available lengths and when you line up shock travel between what is offered the best bet is 2.5 for a 4in lift. For example the rear shock for a 4in lift has a 12in stroke vs. the 3.0 shock for same lift height which is 9.4in stroke. I spent a lot of time chasing FOX for answers but got nothing.

All of those seem to say they exclude the Mojave…

 

[DirtGadgets]

Thanks for the info. Yes. Now I'm debating on getting the MetalCloak and 37's over the Fabtech 2 inch and 35's. Cringing at the gas mileage, though, but it does look great. I do use the truck off road. Generally trails no harsher than 6/10. The MetalCloak site said it recommends replacing the drive shaft for $629 for off road use. Did you? That would put the kit at around $2,800. What's the tallest height (floor to roof line) on your truck? Garage is 80 inches. Figure I'll need to park outside the garage with the MetalCloak.

Yes. I did replace the driveshaft. From the start the bill of materials (BOM) for my latest Mojave build included a line item for a performance front drive shaft. I included it as I expected to fully articulate the suspension and knew the stock front drive shaft would bind after the lift and bigger tires. You can buy this through MetalCloak, however you may be able to save a couple hundred dollars shopping around and buying it elsewhere.

The total height after the lift and 37's comes out right at 77 inches.

 

[DirtGadgets]

Hopefully one of these manufactures will finally build a "Mojave" specific kit; kind of wild they have not yet.

AEV, Fabtech, and MetalCloak all offer Mojave specific lift kits. There's a mere $100 spread between the cost of the Fabtech and the MetalCloak lifts. When I set about reviewing the options it became evident the MetalCloak lift was the best value, which is what I went with. Here's a spreadsheet that compares the options.

 

[piroman683]

All of those seem to say they exclude the Mojave…

the shocks mount in the same exact location so my guess is that because the Mojave springs are stiffer the overall lift height referenced would possibly not line up. For example a shock for a 2in lift might be a little short for a Mojave since the Mojave already sits higher. This is what made finding the right springs difficult for me since I bought a Sport (non-S) and all lifts were based on ribicon models.

 

[yoda13]

the shocks mount in the same exact location so my guess is that because the Mojave springs are stiffer the overall lift height referenced would possibly not line up. For example a shock for a 2in lift might be a little short for a Mojave since the Mojave already sits higher. This is what made finding the right springs difficult for me since I bought a Sport (non-S) and all lifts were based on ribicon models.

I believe the shock mounts use different size bolts on the Mojave…

 

[piroman683]

I believe the shock mounts use different size bolts on the Mojave…

well hot damn!

 

[DirtGadgets]

Thanks for the info. Yes. Now I'm debating on getting the MetalCloak and 37's over the Fabtech 2 inch and 35's. Cringing at the gas mileage, though, but it does look great. I do use the truck off road. Generally trails no harsher than 6/10. The MetalCloak site said it recommends replacing the drive shaft for $629 for off road use. Did you? That would put the kit at around $2,800. What's the tallest height (floor to roof line) on your truck? Garage is 80 inches. Figure I'll need to park outside the garage with the MetalCloak.

So, at present I haven't re-geared. My gas mileage did take a hit. Before the lift and tire upgrades I was averaging 16.2 - 17.3 MPG city or highway. Now I'm averaging 14.8 - 15.2 MPG city driving and 15.5 - 16.2 MPG highway driving. Off roading my mileage has varied depending on the terrain, but it's within the ranges I've just described.

Also, and this is more food for thought, the stock Dana 44 axles (M210 and M220) are robust enough from the factory to handle up to 38 inch tires. If you're going bigger than 38's you should install a pair of 1-Ton axles (Dana 60 or bigger) However, the stock Dana 44 axles can be made really rugged and reliable for a fraction of the cost of a 1-ton axle swap. Here are the upgrades I'm presently budgeting for...

1. Re-gearing both axles to 4.88
2. Trussing both axles
3. Pulling out the rear e-locker and replacing it with a manual Ox locker
4. Adding a manual Ox locker to the front
5. Adding RCV front and rear axle shafts

I'm re-gearing the axles to improve fuel economy and return the vehicle to the stock power bands. I'm going with the manual Ox lockers to mitigate issues that can arise with air and electronics. This change will mean I will have to disable/remove the switch and display options in the cab.

 

[DirtGadgets]

I believe the shock mounts use different size bolts on the Mojave…

I think all the Gladiator and Wrangler trim packages use the same lower shock mount bolt sizes. I've installed a few lifts on these machines and the nuts and bolts are all the same.

However, there is a notable difference in the Mojave front, lower shock mount brackets. The Mojave brackets are built heavier, e.g. more steel. This makes the MetalCloak lower shock mount relocation brackets not quite fit right on the Mojave. I don't think MetalCloak accounted for this in their design. The result is the front, lower shock relocation brackets don't bolt right on like they do on other JT and JL trim packages. To get them to mount easily on a Mojave you need a couple big C-Clamps to force the brackets into alignment to bolt them on. It won't damage or compromise them and it's not difficult to do once you know about the fitment challenges.

 

[DirtGadgets]

the shocks mount in the same exact location so my guess is that because the Mojave springs are stiffer the overall lift height referenced would possibly not line up. For example a shock for a 2in lift might be a little short for a Mojave since the Mojave already sits higher. This is what made finding the right springs difficult for me since I bought a Sport (non-S) and all lifts were based on ribicon models.

The MetalCloak GameChanger lift for the Mojave provides upper and lower front shock relocation brackets. This allows the stock shocks to be retained as the MetalCloak springs add 3.5 inches of lift. There are no relocation brackets for the rear shocks as their geometry is different. Bump stop extensions are provided to prevent the wheels from topping out in the fender wells.

 

[piroman683]

So, at present I haven't re-geared. My gas mileage did take a hit. Before the lift and tire upgrades I was averaging 16.2 - 17.3 MPG city or highway. Now I'm averaging 14.8 - 15.2 MPG city driving and 15.5 - 16.2 MPG highway driving. Off roading my mileage has varied depending on the terrain, but it's within the ranges I've just described.

Also, and this is more food for thought, the stock Dana 44 axles (M210 and M220) are robust enough from the factory to handle up to 38 inch tires. If you're going bigger than 38's you should install a pair of 1-Ton axles (Dana 60 or bigger) However, the stock Dana 44 axles can be made really rugged and reliable for a fraction of the cost of a 1-ton axle swap. Here are the upgrades I'm presently budgeting for...

1. Re-gearing both axles to 4.88
2. Trussing both axles
3. Pulling out the rear e-locker and replacing it with a manual Ox locker
4. Adding a manual Ox locker to the front
5. Adding RCV front and rear axle shafts

I'm re-gearing the axles to improve fuel economy and return the vehicle to the stock power bands. I'm going with the manual Ox lockers to mitigate issues that can arise with air and electronics. This change will mean I will have to disable/remove the switch and display options in the cab.

i believe you can upgrade to 35 spline axles too which is what comes with the 60's. Main advantage of 60's are larger diameter tube, and thicker wall thickness (as the top advantages, there are others). I regeared to 4.56 and am running 37's now with no issues on the 6 speed manual trans. I was running 35's until a race team i've been helping out with hooked me up with 37's

 

[SloW8]

I think all the Gladiator and Wrangler trim packages use the same lower shock mount bolt sizes. I've installed a few lifts on these machines and the nuts and bolts are all the same.

However, there is a notable difference in the Mojave front, lower shock mount brackets. The Mojave brackets are built heavier, e.g. more steel. This makes the MetalCloak lower shock mount relocation brackets not quite fit right on the Mojave. I don't think MetalCloak accounted for this in their design. The result is the front, lower shock relocation brackets don't bolt right on like they do on other JT and JL trim packages. To get them to mount easily on a Mojave you need a couple big C-Clamps to force the brackets into alignment to bolt them on. It won't damage or compromise them and it's not difficult to do once you know about the fitment challenges.

The Mojave does have larger bolts. M14 vs M12 I believe.

 

[JTWAVE]

Yes. I did replace the driveshaft. From the start the bill of materials (BOM) for my latest Mojave build included a line item for a performance front drive shaft. I included it as I expected to fully articulate the suspension and knew the stock front drive shaft would bind after the lift and bigger tires. You can buy this through MetalCloak, however you may be able to save a couple hundred dollars shopping around and buying it elsewhere.

The total height after the lift and 37's comes out right at 77 inches.

Yes. I did replace the driveshaft. From the start the bill of materials (BOM) for my latest Mojave build included a line item for a performance front drive shaft. I included it as I expected to fully articulate the suspension and knew the stock front drive shaft would bind after the lift and bigger tires. You can buy this through MetalCloak, however you may be able to save a couple hundred dollars shopping around and buying it elsewhere.

The total height after the lift and 37's comes out right at 77 inches.

Yes. I did replace the driveshaft. From the start the bill of materials (BOM) for my latest Mojave build included a line item for a performance front drive shaft. I included it as I expected to fully articulate the suspension and knew the stock front drive shaft would bind after the lift and bigger tires. You can buy this through MetalCloak, however you may be able to save a couple hundred dollars shopping around and buying it elsewhere.

The total height after the lift and 37's comes out right at 77 inches.

Thanks for the measurement. That brings up the first question I had a few threads ago about actual lift or displaced lift. My Mohave is 73 inches tall from ground to top back of the roofline on stock lift and tires That’s a difference of 4 inches below yours. 37 inch tires, while having a diameter of 4 inches larger than the 33’s on my truck, the height increase is only 2 inches at axle. With a 3 1/2 inch lift I would think a Mojave would be 73+2+3 1/2 = 78 1/2 inches. About 1 1/2 inches short of yours. Does this have to do with added weight from suspension items, or any aftermarket items on your truck? Just wondering. Thought you might be curious too as to actual height of a stock Mojave. My only added weight currently that may be different from others is a bed topper and hard top. Some have soft tops.

 

[JTWAVE]

So, at present I haven't re-geared. My gas mileage did take a hit. Before the lift and tire upgrades I was averaging 16.2 - 17.3 MPG city or highway. Now I'm averaging 14.8 - 15.2 MPG city driving and 15.5 - 16.2 MPG highway driving. Off roading my mileage has varied depending on the terrain, but it's within the ranges I've just described.

Also, and this is more food for thought, the stock Dana 44 axles (M210 and M220) are robust enough from the factory to handle up to 38 inch tires. If you're going bigger than 38's you should install a pair of 1-Ton axles (Dana 60 or bigger) However, the stock Dana 44 axles can be made really rugged and reliable for a fraction of the cost of a 1-ton axle swap. Here are the upgrades I'm presently budgeting for...

1. Re-gearing both axles to 4.88
2. Trussing both axles
3. Pulling out the rear e-locker and replacing it with a manual Ox locker
4. Adding a manual Ox locker to the front
5. Adding RCV front and rear axle shafts

I'm re-gearing the axles to improve fuel economy and return the vehicle to the stock power bands. I'm going with the manual Ox lockers to mitigate issues that can arise with air and electronics. This change will mean I will have to disable/remove the switch and display options in the cab.

Wow. My plan was 35’s or 37’s. I don’t need all of what you mentioned, do I? Is all that if I were to go 38’s or larger? I’m having trouble scrapping together the $6K needed just for the lift, wheels, and tires.

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