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Mojave vs Rubicon On-Road Ride Quality

Badunit

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Is the ride quality of the Mojave really all that much better than the Rubicon on the road (both completely stock)? I've test driven both but it's not like I have railroad tracks to blast over or a field of potholes to traverse to really test out a suspension, much less any jumps to fly over. For the around town driving I did, I came away preferring the Rubicon. The Mojave felt kind of floaty and rocked side to side more. Am I crazy? Is the Rubicon so scary bad on railroad tracks, bridges, potholes, and other irregularities while a Mojave will just glide right over them?
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Lunentucker

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I think the Mojave rides slightly softer, but the Rubicon handles better and feels more stable on the road in the stock head to head.
 

Chaos Theory

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The Mojave suspension doesn't do much on pavement. That's not what it's for.

I say, get the Jeep you want and modify as-needed, suspension or otherwise.
 

Charles 236

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Having driven both, it seems to me that the shock damping is the most noticeable difference. The Mojave has the remote reservoir shocks and there seems to be less "float" when going over bumps or potholes. The Rubicon seems to soak up a bump and react to it a little more, producing a sort of floating sensation, sort of like older cars. This is just my experience, both of these Gladiators were new and I drove them while doing the dealer prep inspection. I also believe that you should buy the Gladiator you prefer, drive both and see which one drives most like you prefer.
 

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Did you by chance compare the tire pressures of the Mojave vs Rubi? I test drove a rubicon and it nearly turned me off gladiators. It felt like a pogo stick. I did not test the tire pressure of the demo model, but a friend who bought another gladiator from this same dealer had his tires set to 44psi when he picked it up. So possible the rubi tires were overfilled as well.
If I was trying to choose the model based on ride quality, I’d bring my trusted tire gauge with the bleed valve and be sure to set them both to 36, or whatever is on their door stickers.
 

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Badunit

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Thanks for the replies.

The Mojave tires were 42 psi I believe. I didn't know what they were supposed to be so I left them alone but they felt too high (which is why I looked). I don't know about the Rubicon, I didn't look.
 

Onimojave

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I’ve experienced the exact opposite. Drove my friends 2021 Rubicon (inspiration for my 22 Mojave purchase), and loved the over all feel and quality of the vehicle but noticed that it felt floaty and wandered in the corners. The improved fox dampening and wider wheel base on the Mojave completely eliminated the floaty/ unsure footing I experienced in the rubicon version. If you notice any bad road manners in a Mojave you’ve got improperly inflated tires or are in need of an alignment most likely.
 

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I test drove an Overland, Mojave , Rubicon same day at my dealer, the overland handles great on the road , but I was looking for a tow vehicle and had decided to move to the Rubicon to get the 4.10 axle, then dealer called me and said the Mojave is coming out, perhaps something I would like at same price, test drove the first Mojave they got in but was a bit loaded , I ordered a Mojave when I found out the selec- trac transfer case option was coming so I waited until I could order it. My come away was the Mojave was real nice felt “tighter” then the Rubicon and I did have an hour test drive by my self, blasted speed bumps and railroad tracks , handles great through corners at speed. The problem the Mojave has , is the suspension in rear is soft and feels loads more, I swapped in a set of rear Max Tow springs and have been thrilled and ride didn’t suffer , a little firmer. Forty two is pretty high PSI, I run at 37psi there is a difference at higher pressures….Jack
 
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Lunentucker

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Did you by chance compare the tire pressures of the Mojave vs Rubi? I test drove a rubicon and it nearly turned me off gladiators. It felt like a pogo stick. I did not test the tire pressure of the demo model, but a friend who bought another gladiator from this same dealer had his tires set to 44psi when he picked it up. So possible the rubi tires were overfilled as well.
If I was trying to choose the model based on ride quality, I’d bring my trusted tire gauge with the bleed valve and be sure to set them both to 36, or whatever is on their door stickers.
That's a good point. I think dealers over inflate them to keep the TPMS lights from being an issue when a customer tries one out.
 

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Over-inflation also helps reduce flat spots when they sit a long time.
 

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Toyfrog

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I have a 21’ Mojave and at times when there is a strong crosswind, I’m scared that people will call in thinking I’m a drunk driver. 🤣. Been kicking the idea around of doing a complete suspension lift and selling the factory stuff? Ok bring on the haters for that comment. Lol
 

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I traded my rubi for the Mojave for more creature comforts and definitely a nicer riding vehicle on long trips. Absorbs all the road destruction smoother,potholes,railroad tracks…etc
 

jav_eee

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I have a rubicon and having driven a 2006 TJ for a couple of years this JTR drives like a car. It’s so smooth on my city roads. It’s amazing to think a Mojave would feel “better”.
 

bleda2002

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Better is subjective as people have very different ideas of what they like when it comes to dampening. Some like it to be sports car tight, others like it to feel like a magic carpet ride with the car almost floating.

If you liked the feeling of the Rubicon get the Rubicon. Knowing I was going to lift and swap tires made it an easy choice to go Rubicon for me.
 
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Badunit

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1997 TJ here.

I suppose 1" additional front upward travel and $3,000 shocks make a difference. They better. But I question in the future what I would do if a shock went bad or they wore out (Fox Racing apparently says good for 50K road miles from what I have read here, which sounds ridiculously low). $3000 for a full replacement set or $1500 for front or rear is pricy versus normal shocks. I know they can be rebuilt, but the wait (and down time) may be long and who knows if these models will still be serviced in the future.

I am wondering why the Mojave is not more expensive than the Rubicon. $3K shocks, hydraulic bump stops, and some beefed up frame/suspension parts sounds like more money than a factory front locker, sway bar disconnect, and steel rear bumper. Everything else is a kind of a wash with regards to price.

I know I am overthinking this but I tend to hold onto vehicles for a lot of years so I consider everything.
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