Mopar factory trailer brake controller - my impressions and review

[OMTBiker]

If the Wrangler was ordered with the trailer tow group it will have the connector for a brake controller under the dashing and all wiring should be the same, I will be able to confirm if the connector and wires match later as the other half is working and has the Wrangler. I will check on the connector and wires to confirm tonight or tomorrow as her schedule is crazy currently and will not be home until late.

Sponsored

 

[OMTBiker]

Thinking out loud here so bear with me, the controller does not need to be installed, just plugged in to the connector and module/switch to verify the issue correct?

 

[Aberk]

Thinking out loud here so bear with me, the controller does not need to be installed, just plugged in to the connector and module/switch to verify the issue correct?

Correct. You don't need to bolt it all in. Connecting the wiring should be sufficient.

 

[OMTBiker]

Correct. You don't need to bolt it all in. Connecting the wiring should be sufficient.

Good, how would you activate the brakes manually without the pieces put together?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thinking out loud here so bear with me, the controller does not need to be installed, just plugged in to the connector and module/switch to verify the issue correct?

Yeah, what Aberk said. You don't have to be moving, it doesn't have to be fully installed, just controller parts all connected.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Looking at the controller instructions for the non-existent harness, based on their connector wiring diagram - this holds true for Wrangler, Grand Cherokee AND the harness they do not yet have.

Black - ground
Dk GRN/white trace - stop lamp signal
Dk Grn - Electric brake feed (to trailer)
Tan w/red trace - +12volts to controller

I looked at the block diagram that Hootbro supplied a link to and the colors carry-through.
Now to find an actually SCHEMATIC with connection designations.
That will tell me if those are anything other than plain wires (such as fuses, diodes, whatever) and further, may help find where B15 is in the grand scheme of things.
If B15 is where I think it is, I'm correct and that harness won't fix squat - but only a schematic will tell for sure.

 

[Aberk]

Good, how would you activate the brakes manually without the pieces put together?

Plug all the components in and press the button that would mount to the dash. The dial/button on the dash doesn't have to be installed for you to press the button.

 

[Hootbro]

Looking at the controller instructions for the non-existent harness, based on their connector wiring diagram - this holds true for Wrangler, Grand Cherokee AND the harness they do not yet have.

Black - ground
Dk GRN/white trace - stop lamp signal
Dk Grn - Electric brake feed (to trailer)
Tan w/red trace - +12volts to controller

I looked at the block diagram that Hootbro supplied a link to and the colors carry-through.
Now to find an actually SCHEMATIC with connection designations.
That will tell me if those are anything other than plain wires (such as fuses, diodes, whatever) and further, may help find where B15 is in the grand scheme of things.
If B15 is where I think it is, I'm correct and that harness won't fix squat - but only a schematic will tell for sure.

The diagram I provided is the full schematic for that system and has the connector ID's to the right of the pin numbers. It is the same level of detail the techs at the dealership use. So if no diode was shown on that diagram/schematic, it is not in the system.

Below is a link to the connector repair website for FCA vehicles. It will give the connector layout and the pin circuit assignments. Cursory look though under the Gladiator, I could not find any "B15" connector.

http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The diagram I provided is the full schematic for that system and has the connector ID's to the right of the pin numbers. It is the same level of detail the techs at the dealership use. So if no diode was shown on that diagram/schematic, it is not in the system.

Below is a link to the connector repair website for FCA vehicles. It will give the connector layout and the pin circuit assignments. Cursor look though under the Gladiator, I could not find any "B15" connector.

http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm

I missed some of the indicators on my little chromebook.
I just looked at it on my larger HP laptop and I was correct - B15 is simply another place to catch the the brake signal on the SAME WIRE.
OK, this proves that the harness not available until February is ONLY to add wiring to the Wrangler.
It's not a fix for JT.

All that other harness does is the same thing the existing harness does.
Look at B15 in this diagram you provided - it's the same as the existing brake controller connector on the JT.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/TRAILER-TOW-SYSTEM.pdf

In short, Jeep parts people were wrong.

Here's the bottom line and now we have diagrams as evidence -
The harness shown in the brake controller instructions with kit AB is ONLY to add a trailer brake controller connector to Wrangler.
It has nothing to do with Gladiator.
If you do not have a trailer brake controller connector on your Wrangler, that harness will add one for you.
It is connecting to B15, which will add the trailer brake controller harness at junction S2902.
That's where your current trailer brake connector hooks in already.
Gladiator already has such a connector - that harness will do nothing for you but give you another with the same connections.
It will not add any brake light functions when using the manual trailer brake button.

So if you have a JT, there is not only no fix, Jeep isn't even aware of the problem.

There is no fix for Gladiator.
I will bet that some Wranglers may have the same issue - but will have to add that harness to plug in a brake controller if they don't already have ADH on their WRANGLER.

Again, there is no fix - not that I have found so far.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Cursor look though under the Gladiator, I could not find any "B15" connector.

http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm

It's not a connector, it's a junction, likely soldered or crimped like they do.
It's where the dark green w/white of the ABS module position 15 joins the BCM dark green w/white position 18

(I had to go through 50+ pin connectors when I merged the PDC and PCM into my Eagle - what a pain)

 

[Jaxmax]

Bill, have you looked at your poll you started?
I get Your’e upset and on edge, and your Poll is not getting much attention, but it did prove it is not an ACC problem as people that have ACC do not have any problems, and the other possible common factor with people not having the issue is the build date, like you suggested, all the ones that are ok are across three trim levels with after August 2020 build dates. Possible wiring harness change, why would ours work fine and others can’t even get to hook to a trailer?......Jack

 

[RetCop402]

Not a happy camper. I totally wasted a lot of money.

It's not at all ready for prime time.

First - do NOT even think of touching that button with no trailer and the engine running.

That's right - no diode, it will light your cluster like the 4th of July or Christmas - and it disabled 4 functions on my jeep until I shut down and restarted.

The instructions are wrong in two places - they show it with wires facing you as you install it but it comes reversed - which is correct? The arrow points to removing a wire strap on the lower hole, it's actually the upper hole.

VERY hard to plug it in installed as it's shown, but much easier if it's reversed from the directions (installed as it comes)

Comparing this to Redarc -
Redarc single mode controller - about 136
Mopar single mode controller - over 250
Redarc dual mode controller with bezel and Ram harness with diode - under 250

So for less money you can get a dual purpose controller that has a diode in the line and won't light up your dash if you press that button without a trailer connected. Not a biggy - but if you are like me and may bump that button shifting the t-case or reaching for a window switch or whatever, it will be a problem.

What does the Mopar controller do that Recarc does not?
Nothing.

It doesn't light with headlights on, it only lights with a trailer. Which is fine because you don't need it without a trailer, right?

It doesn't integrate into the electronics in any way - it won't show on your dash or screen. It's a dumb controller just like Curt, Redarc, etc. But for about twice the money.

Obviously this was a hurry-up thing. They never tested it.

So why do we all want it? Because the control knob matches the dash! That's it.

I find zero advantage and several disadvantages.

Frankly, I'm concerned about how cheap and light the control dial is - it's a fraction of the weight and thickness of the smaller Redarc knob. I have a feeling it's not going to hold up well.

I'm still debating, especially after finding it will light up your dash and crap out if you hit the button by accident, I may still rip it out and trash it.

I'll see how I feel after a couple of days - but one more time of that fXXX thing lighting up my dash and it's out of there.

I can't believe Mopar released this overpriced cheaply made thing that doesn't even have any protection from error (like a diode)

What gives, Jeep? What a joke.

Show me an advantage this has over the Redarc controller - other than LOOKS. Seriously.

I expected something WELL MADE, with a solid control knob, not some cheap thin plastic.

And like I say - it doesn't even light with no trailer.

Where's the advantage and why did we all - including stupid ME - rush to get this thing?

Instructions are a mess -
There is no ADH code for Gladiator, that's a Wranger, etc. code. So anyone with a Gladiator is going to be confused by that including DEALERS!

The instructions show in at least SIX (6) places where the controller itself should be mounted with connectors facing you - pointing back. It comes the other way.

The instructions point to a lower hole and show removing a wire harness clip - the clip is actually in the UPPER hole and mine was a bitch to get out!
I could go on - but you see the deal - it was rushed out and the instructions were never checked, tested, etc.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Bill, have you looked at your poll you started?
I get Your’e upset and on edge, and your Poll is not getting much attention, but it did prove it is not an ACC problem as people that have ACC do not have any problems, and the other possible common factor with people not having the issue is the build date, like you suggested, all the ones that are ok are across three trim levels with after August 2020 build dates. Possible wiring harness change, why would ours work fine and others can’t even get to hook to a trailer?......Jack

There are posts in one or two of the other threads about these that show it's not a build date thing - someone with a later 2020 build date had the issue while another with an early build date did not.
I would wonder if it's an ABS or BCM issue - since those could have differences in firmware/software, revisions and such.

Not everyone has gone to the poll and put yes or no and build date as we're missing one of the early ones with ACC that had no issue.
Basically, I think it was Jeff who agreed we pretty much ruled out build date in another thread, but still need more info.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...e-mopar-official-brake-controller-only.36578/

For kicks, I told mine it had an "integrated trailer brake controller" and it made no difference - as it should not because these, although sold by Mopar, are in effect third party brake controllers, not integrated. (oddly though when I changed that setting in jscan, the JT told me forward collision was disabled! LOL)

 

[RetCop402]

I installed the Redarc controller in my Gladiator about 6 months ago, got tired of waiting on the Mopar controller. I'm completely satisfied with the Redarc, it was simple to install does a fantastic job on my trailer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I installed the Redarc controller in my Gladiator about 6 months ago, got tired of waiting on the Mopar controller. I'm completely satisfied with the Redarc, it was simple to install does a fantastic job on my trailer.

I'm going to push hard because Jeep owes us either a fix or an exmplation and refund - I kept the Redarc and can easily put it back and get another for my wife's Grand Cherokee. The Redarc units also require a harness with a diode, though - the Ram harness does that (with a simple wire position swap)

Sponsored